Just wondering if anyone can help me a some problems...

1st. Cleaned the throttle butterfly flap the weekend with carb cleaner and now it idles at 12000rpm. It's been recently setup so is there a way to adjust the idle without touching the fueling?

2nd. The engine wont turn off when you have the full beams on, even if you take the keys out. When you turn the lights off it stops.

3rd. one on the lights wont work on main beam. The bulb looks fine and tried wingling the connectors but nothing?

Any help would be great

 

My cabrio did that with the main beam, theres a blue relay under the dash, that was faulty iirc, and a dodgy wire. This may be related to why the main beam aint working.

Think theres a throttle stop/screw on the throttle body for idle speed, I will have a look in a min sure theres a mfi inlet in my garage.

 

Try turniong the screw on the throttle body ( screw with spring) to lower the revs. you have proberbly removed some oil giving it a better air flow and sucking in a bit more air.

 

I was told not to touch that as it adjust idle speed and fueling for the idle . What about the the stop screw on the left of the throttle body? Only thing is theres not much adjustment left on it.

 

Don't touch the stop screw on the left as that sets your throttle position sensor & should be correct if it's just been set up.
No harm to screw in the knurled screw underneath the throttle body till it revs at 950 whatever. Let it warm up first and count the number of turns
you screw it in, you can always screw it out again

 

you should adjust the idle screw, it only adjusts idle speed, doesnt affect the drive fueling air mix. as for engine not switching off i think you have a constant live feed from alternator or the live from the head light is shorting across the alternator wire, wen u switch it off and it doesnt go off try plulling the wire tht plugs on to alternator , see if tht switches engine off, my turbo done tht, was a faulty alternator, some diode inside giving permenant live to ignition ,

 

just a thought, you havent got anything jammed in the throttle body , ie piece of rag

 

Thanks lads. Im gonna have a good look tomorrow if I can or the weekend. I'll let you know how I get on. I'll give the idle screw a go then.

 

mind its the 1 with the spring on it

 

The brass one under the throttle body?

 

yes tht 1, jst take your time with it, listen to the engine

 

I adjusted it and it idles fine now but I have been told by a few people not to touch that screw . Gonna have a look at the lights in the morning and fitting some denso plugs aswell.

 

That is correct, You DO NOT touch this screw with the spring to lower RPM, that is engine idle speed. You need to adjust the small stud/screw on the side of the Throttle body. Loosen the retaining nut first then adjust with engine running, from cold.

 

Just read all replies, Jeez how many people believe the spring screw is to change idle RPM...thats idle speed. Christ on a bike.

 

Thanks. I know how many turns to put it back so I'll Adjust the other one in the morning.

 

Turns to chnage the RPM or the speed?

For the speed, did you count how many turns you made? If not listen to the engine, turning it up to far the engine will idle like its been given some throttle, if down to low it will idle like its about to cut out/ knocking. turn up til idle speed feels right. The engine shouldn't be rocking too much either.

As for the Idle RPM, you need to run the engine 'FROM COLD' then turn the screw until it sits at 850-900 RPM for best results.

 

its reving high at idle isnt tht why idle speed needs adjusted, i personally think it shopuld b adjusted from warm, did you get the not switching off fixed ains, was it the alternator

 

In the workshop manual there is supposed to be a rule to adjust everthing. for the screw with the spring it said something about fully turn it in than x times out.
Can't find the manual anymore though.

 

Fitted some new plugs also theres no adjustment left on that screw with the locking nut on. Took it out earlier and it not running right when you put your foot down. Its hessitating now . I put the brass screw back to where it was but im thinking it's now out of tune.

 

Haven't checked yet mate, im trying to sort the idle out first.

 

Funny you say that about the cleaning of the butterfly as ive just done the same but on a zetec engine, was idling at 1200 too when it used to dance around at 750 - 1000 before and throttle kept sticking, i unplug the engine management fuse, turned the ignition on, off, put fuse back in started it up coughed and spluttered for a minute took it round the block and its sat bang on 1000 rpm now

 

Can you get a close up pic for me please, the thread of the screw should be a few turns past the throttle body towards the front of the car.

 

hi mate my car also has problems number 2 and 3 also so id be interested to see if you find the problem

cheers

 

I'll let you know how I get on. Changed the plugs over to the old ones I had in the car and the car drives fine now. Jano at oddkid said the brass screw with spring on is for idle so I adjusted that and it idles ok now aswell . Im thinking either the gaps are out on the plugs or I didnt put one of the ht leads in properly . Next job is to check the lights and while checking the wiring solder any wires that have been bodged (Theres a few).

 

good man that would be great, its the drivers headlight main beam i cant get to work also my cd player was flashing off and on and my window wiper electric windows are very slow.

cheers
Neil

 

Hi mate for number 2 i think you have a single filament bulb instead of a double filament i had this once both stop & tail bulb was blown and only had a single on me so i put that in to get me home then came to turn the car off and it kept running.Once i turned the lights off it cut have a look and see what bulb is fitted.

 

It was due to a bad earth . The one from the headlight, it was'nt connected.