Had my car setup by Jano so it's not a setup problem and it runs lovely apart from when trying to start from cold. In the mornings I have to start it and rev it to get it to run if I don't give it enough revs it dies. Once its running I keep my foot on the pedal at around 1800rpm for around a minute to get it to idle on its own. The idle when it runs ranges from 1100rpm to 1500rpm and is like that until it gets hot then drops to 1000rpm.
Try'd taking the cold start plug off to see if it helps the startup but the car wouldn't start. I put it back on and it starts with some throttle.
Am I right in saying that the cold start is working if when unplugged the car wont start?
Is there anything else I can try?

 

Have you phoned jano?

 

He's been very helpful just wondered if anyone has had the same problem. What im saying is it isn't a setup problem.

 

thermotime switch? sensor fault?

 

Chances are its like we suspected the cold start valve, did you check the voltage to the sensor to make sure its gets switched on the next morning

If the voltage is correct then just fit another valve and it should work.

 

Right, checked the voltage and I don't have any. I also checked the thermo-time switch to see if there was any voltage and none there too.
Am I doing it right? I waited for the car to get cold then turned the ignition on.

Whats next to check?


Any help would be great as I'd really like to get it sorted before it start getting cold.

 

Yeah fuse is fine. Where is the black box?

 

easy way to check if fuel ECU has voltage is to check the 2 end pins on the throtle switch with ignition on, I cannie mind what one but one of the end pins should have 12v, if not then your fuel ecu isn't working on cold start/on boost enrichment as Tony sais.

 

sorry but where's the throttle switch?

 

Checked the coolant temp sensor plug today, It's getting 9v so if the coolant temp sensor was faulty would the thermo time switch and cold start injector not get any voltage?

 

throtle switch is to the right of the throtle, its black with a 3 pin plug.

 

Yeah I found it in the end .
Whats the purpose of the coolant temp sensor? Is it to supply power to the cold start when the engine is cold?
If so then surely if it's faulty then you wouldn't get any power to the cold start?
Please can someone help before I buy a coolant temp sensor I don't need.

 

I'm sure i have a cts in a inlet in my garage if you need 1

The cts tells the ecu the coolant temprature to vary the fueling etc

 

Ive noticed that i have two yellow connectors and a black one. The two yellow plugs were connected to the air auxilary device, thermo time switch and the black to the coolant temp.
The plugs aren't the origanal ones as you can see where they have been connected to the wire.
Would the car still run ok if they were connected up wrong?

 

have to watch the color of the wiring it s in the manuel book

 

Changed the coldstart and it's starting better but still needs throttle. Just wondering if theres anything else that would make it harder to start? when hot it starts fine but if you leave it for a small amount of time it still needs a bit of throttle. Maybe it's something else.

 

did u ever find out what the problem was as im having the same trouble but with mine if it starts then dies it wont start back up

 

No mate just living with it until I get it to Jano at Oddkidcreations at some point this year.
I find with mine in the mornings and when left for a short time I have to give it throttle and keep the revs up to about 2000rpm otherwise it stalls. I do this for about 30 seconds then it will idle.
On cold start it like it's not getting fuel because on the first attemp if I dont get the revs high enough it stalls.
Does unplugging the cold start make any difference? Mine doesn't start at all when unplugged.

 

Did these cars ever just start properly and just tick over and run perfect from cold, or hot without them being lumpy,

Non of mine ever have

 

with cold start connected the car started instantly put then just died. and it took a while before it started again and would run like a pig and wanted to stal.
with the cold start valve disconnected i had to start a little longer but idles perfect at about 1200 rpm and then after a while it idles at 950 rpm after it warmed up a little.
I'm just leaving it disconnected as it doesn't bother me

Edit: warm startup is perfect at the flick of the key it instantly starts and revs are at 950 rpm and idles very smooth, so yeah they do start good when warm
If it's properly setup that is.

 

Im thinking I might be losing fuel pressure some where.

 

i'm just guessing it's running lean on idle, thats why it's running rough and doesnt start all with coldstart disconnected.. could also be the watertemp sensor, theres also another thing that controls the cold start fueling cant come up with the name..

 

Ive got a new coolant temp sensor coming from Burton Power. Ordered it in October and still waiting. Was nice to know when I rang them they had forgotten about my order . It's out of stock at the moment .
Anyway, does the coolant temp sensor adjust the fuel just for start up?

 

when the engine is cold it gives extra fuel, when it thinks it's warm already it won't give you the extra fuel. think it will cause rough idle when cold and gets better the warmer the engine gets
you can have it the other way too, when the car is warm and it thinks it's cold it will overfuel and run rough.
Just what i know, people that know more can obviously correct me if i'm wrong.

 

Mate just turn the key without the throttle untill it starts and update with what happens

 

It wont start without throttle mate

 

Similar to my problem. But different. Mine won't idle when cold and then stalls. When hot it won't start unless I manually dip the air filter diahrapm. Then it stalls shortly after.

 

Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor but looks like it will need another set up now as it starts withou throttle but when cold it wont idle at first.