Hi lads me and my brother have being messing on with my car today trying to sort the map out. i haven't had a good day with it because i cant think of how to sort a safe ignition timming so i can get the car to idle nice and then start to do some off boost and light boost driving. Its getting to me abit now because i had a idear of what i was doing and i think we know most of what we are doing but i just cant seen to remeber about safe set up part

would be very thankful if you could help me because i cant sleep

 

 

Why have you got so much advance at idle, 23deg?

 

That above is my start up map for the ignition curve.

Subtract about 3 or 4 degrees off that lot and work from there.

 

I haven't. I've got 18.5...

 

Sorry yes your right, still quite a bit more than the stock setting of 12deg, just wondered if there was a reason?

 

Is this map for a cvh? because my brothers is a zvh would that be different?

Thanks Bram

 

Not especially mate, for a base map any way (ignition).

 

I used to run 30 degrees static ignition advance at idle on MFI. No real reason to run that much other than to keep the PCP up a little in the combustion chamber and lean it off a little. It idles best at 12.2:1 but obviously don't want it idling that rich. I've got it to sit quite comfortably at around 14.2-14.5:1. After stoich it starts to labour a little so run it a little richer.

Yes mate, it was used to start a 1600CVH. It's actually an ignition map from a T28 powered YB engine. Every engine is different so I and any body else couldn't possibly tell you what kind of ignition your brothers engine will need. Some one like Stu at MSD might be able to give you a few rough figures from experience but they will never be optimal. The way to do it is to find the point of detonation and move the figures back a few degrees (I have worked on a 4-5 degree safety cushion in the past). It will give you a good base to start with and something you can work off. Just get idling, cold start and running, cruising and transients working before you go thrashing it and trying for power.

 

thanks. i got a base map off a focus rs and was thinking it was a good place to start. the focus ignition table is to retard for my engine because at 1100rpm the manifold starts to glow. il try to post a pic on because my map looks abit diffrent to the maps ive see on here

thanks again lads

 

This is what we have so far

 

Advance it up then but make sure it's not idling at 16 or 17:1 like your post in General Discussion says. It needs to be around 14.7:1. Running leaner than this only creates more heat adding to your glowing manifold problem.

You need to get it idling at 14:1 then add some more ignition advance. Not the other way round.

 

So when it's at idle it's at around 15 to 18 degrees? If so, that should be plenty of advance for idle on any engine.

 

thanks mate.
am going to see if i can get hold of simon some time tomorrow, hopefully we can get it sorted

 

if i'm being thick please tell me, but reading that should put any1 of an evolution chip un less the car was in their hands???

 

i had it running it 1100rpm mate because it wasnt running well so 18.

 

whys that mate if your get a evo chip it should be set up when fitted.

 

just thought you could get them mail order aswell?

 

Chips don't really change that much.

An evo chip will probably retard the ignition at higher boost/rpm, remove the boost limit etcetc. or something similar. Its not doing a great deal, its changing something that already works.

A base map isn't safe to start with, won't work really well etcetc, and every engine will require slightly different trims and values for the same spec, no two engines are the same, your not making small generic changes to something that works.

Its likely a base map for one car will work well on another but the final map could look very different.

Rob,

 

plus as bram says, you normally get an rst set up at the same time as getting it 'chipped'. All the chip is letting you do is run more boost before the ecu intervenes.

Rob,

 

thanks rob i dont have to reply now

i put a comment on your resto have you being on

 

Lol, yes i've replied. need to have another peak at yours mate but i guess it looks roughly the same whilst your mapping?

Rob,

 

yeah mate just trying to sort the map and theres some loose ends i need to sort before central day, do you think yours will be done for then and are you going

 

I should be going and i damn hope the car is going, it april so it should be possible even if its not going up the strip.

Rob.

 

my car isnt going up aswell. i think my gearbox will fall to bits
hope you get your car done mate will be nice to see it

 

If you buy a stage 3 set up off Stu, you get the actuator, the chip and injectors with fitting instructions. You then set your boost and fueling to what the instructions tell you to. The chip has been developed over years and has a safety margin in the ignition and fueling to allow for deviation in different engines/fuel quality etc. If you have it mapped, it will be tailor made for your engine spec without needing the same kind of safety margin.

My statement was meant to indicate that only someone like Stu with experience in varying types of engines and secifications will be able to give you a very rough set of figures.

For example, if I knew that dependant on spec most ZVH engines will comfortably run between 10 and 18 degrees at 25 psi boost at 5k rpm, I'd tell you to run 6-7 degrees as a safety margin. Without pushing it to the point of det, you won't know what figures it will run safely but you can have an educated guess.