GuGu

Today my tuner came to my city and tried to tune my RST. RST has standard engine. It only has EFI engine. I used MS as ECU. The car is almost good but I have a problem on boosting. We must have set 46-50 degree as the boosting advance. We dont hear knocking sound with professional knocking headphone. But we cant find why it does like it. At 15-20 degrees. we cant get power which the car must give.Manifold is glowing red.

What can cause it?

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

too much retard is why the egt is high, what is the static timing of the cps/trigger wheel setting?
it should be 80degrees btdc for tooth one angle in the triggerwheel settings under basic settings.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Agree your base/static timing is incorrect, check with a timing light against what MT is showing and adjust accordingly!

GuGu

It is edis system. Why are base/static ignitions different?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

You need to have set it correct in MegaTune.
Like this if you are using a EFI flywheel.....

GuGu

I use standard flywheel and standard cps hole. Ecu is MS1 extra... I dont have triggerwheel settings on basic settings.?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

MS1 should look like this....

GuGu

Thanks I will try it.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

if it doesn't make sense, then get a timing light on the job, that should show how it is wrong.
although i suspect the offset angle of cps is to blame.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

set the timing to zero degrees at idle, and put a timing light on it and check that its giving 0 degrees

it wont be, it will be on about -40!

JesseT

Karlos, he said he's using a EDIS setup, so I assume he's not trying to decode the 36-1 wheel with megasquirt. So the trigger angle should be set to zero and EDIS mode activated.

You might have stuck to the limp home mode with the EDIS giving static 10 degrees BTDC timing if the MS signal to EDIS is not properly confgured. This would cause loss of power and a glowing manifold, and no detonation at any given advance numbers.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

JesseT, it reads to me like at 50 degrees it goes ok, and at 20 degrees it glows red, so doesnt sound like the edis is in limp as it wouldnt make any difference if it was on 50 or 20 if it was?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Shit yes your right sorry!!
Ignore my posts!!

GuGu

sorry but I cant understand 2. paragraph. How can I correct this situation ?

GuGu

I changed crank sensor and now it is very near to the flywheel. I can control the ignition. There is no problem about connection. But It needs very advance. Very silly numbers are on the boosting advance. Help....

GuGu

And If I find the difference between static and base ignition degree, How can I calibrate it?

Chip

iTrader: (3)

Quickest thing to check:
With the engine running, disconnect the wiring from the MS to the EDIS, if the engine note doesnt change, its in limp home.

Better to just check with a light though if you have one.

GuGu

I understood limp-home mode EDIS after searching at internet. But EDIS is controlled by MS. I change degree at map the car is replying. I can change the car's going style by giving advance. I am searching why I need this high advance degrees.

Tuner said valve springs can cause it. I will try it. But it is hard operation. I think easy solution can be ?

Chip

iTrader: (3)

YOU DONT HAVE THE ADVANCE YOU THINK YOU DO, CHECK IT WITH A TIMING LIGHT

GuGu

Dont angry :S I think like you. But I asked a question, if advance is different from the degree I see on MT, how can I solve it? Why does it do?

Chip

iTrader: (3)

Normally it will be because of an error in the offset value for where the timing disk is reading from, like the TDC reference etc.

But as the EDIS unit has its own reference for that and you are (i assume) on standard locations, it sounds like it must be the signal to the EDIS that is wrong.

Unplug the EDIS from the MS and check the timing is at 10 degrees, if it is then the fault is on the MS side, if it isnt then the fault is on the EDIS side.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

didn't notice the EDIS bit (oops), but do you have the ht leads in the right order?
i know it sounds daft, but that could account for 90 degrees out in the first place.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

It would still be running 40 degrees of retard even when set to 50 degrees of advance, so I dont think it can be that, as the manifold would then be lit up like a christmas tree at 40 degrees of retard!

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

/\ true, he nees to get a timing light on it and find the true timing of the engine.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

Indeed, and then needs to cut the MS / EDIS link wire to see which half of the setup is causing the problem.

Just a case of being methodical.

GuGu

But I have true idle at 16 degrees. Car is relax under boost with 16-30 degrees. But when boosting we must give 40-50 degrees. This makes me confused.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Did you check your idle 16 degrees with a timing light? So MT says 16 and Timing light says 16 yes?

GuGu

No I didnt do yet. But I think if I have 40 degrees of retard at boosting, I would almost 40 degrees of retard at idle.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

You MUST check it with a timing light, and compare to MegaTune!!!
Then come back and tell us the result, or this thread is pointless.