Marts

iTrader: (1)

Some of you may know I have had issues with my metering unit. Well I have finally got round to swapping it over for another one (I know its been a while lol). Thing is, i cant find the bloody haynes manual to tell me which way to turn the fuel adjustment screw, is it clockwise for more fuel?

Also, due to the car running sweet with the 'old' mixture, will it just be a case of increasing the fuel on the new unit to match the air of the old setup? (if that makes sense?)

Sorry for the gormless questions

ollie240585

iTrader: (1)

Only way you can certain is take it to be set up correctly.

Don't take a chance on it yourself, I'm setting my 1.8 ZVH using a CO meter to make sure it's not running lean, then taking it to BD Engineering to have it checked over.

Mine was running way too rich during the last MOT, so I'm sure that it should be running ok.

Marts

iTrader: (1)

I need it adjusting before it can go to a tuner.... otherwise im only going to get as far as my driveway lol

Is it clockwise or anticlockwise? Seeing as the new unit came off a 1.6, im going to have to richen the mixture to cater for the extra 200cc. What is the amount i should be seeing on a co meter anyways for the ZVH? Go by 1.6 ERST or go by 1.8 Escort GTi?

vivien62

clocwise to increase anti to decrease,fit an air fuel gauge,thats what there for...

Marts

iTrader: (1)

Thanks mate.

As for the air/fuel gauge, i have no where to plum it into and reading up on them on here, they seem pretty crap anyways.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Marts mate, you can only set the IDLE CO by adjusting the mixture screw on the metering head.
Your on boost/under load fuelling has to be set with a WB Lambda and a AFR Gauge which will cost you around Ł300 for a half decent one.
The fuel pressure is adjusted by a small screw inside the EMFPA and it is not something you can just be told how many turns to set it to if you get what I mean? lol
Just drive it off boost to your tuner and you'll be fine.

Marts

iTrader: (1)

Karlos, i swapped metering units over and now the car wont idle at all... only does it with my foot on the pedal and even that is shit as! So yea, the IDLE CO is all i wanna increase.

Maybe i have said something incorrectly earlier, i dunno, but i aint willing to blow my new engine up just yet

Oh, i said "Increase Fuel" didnt I.... oh you know what i mean

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

lol Sounds like an air leak if it will only idle with your foot on the pedal!

Marts

iTrader: (1)

Turned it over yesterday first time and everything was sweet. Noticed a bit of smoke coming out the back so thought i'd sort it............ Now its running sh*t

Moral: Dont fix if not broken

Marts

iTrader: (1)

Really doing my head in now!!!! The only way to keep idle is to have the idle screw really far out. That's not right is it! I've been on it for a while today and now giving a break before i set a bloody hammer to it

so I'm disconnecting the switch from the metering unit, revving at 3k for 30 seconds and adjusting the idle screw to get around 900-1000rpm. That's right ain't it.... But it's running lumpy as fuck. I kept doing it and now have it running ok(ish) at 1000rpm but smoke is visible from the exhaust. Nothing excessive or noticeable really, but I see it and it weren't there before I fiddled with it.

Think I'll just wait now till the guy who fitted the engine to look at it on Monday.

Chris69

Its the fueling mate or a bad air leak it needs to be checked and adjusted, if you havn't got a afr guage/lambda of some sort you havn't got much chance if its as far out as it sounds!
tbh i would never change over a metering unit unless i had means to monitor/adjust the fueling as the unit could be setup completely wrong for you engine which does sound like the case at the moment.
As a last thought have you got a boost/vacuum gauge- does it hold a steady vacuum ?

Marts

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply mate.

It has to be the fueling, mainly for the fact the car ran fine on the new unit before I stupidly touched it! Plus I managed to sort the idle better (with screw more in than before) by tightening the accelerator cable... So that obviously raised the revs and allowed for more fuel, correct? I know messing with cable isn't the way to do it, but I had to test it that way. All is getting sorted on Monday anyways as my mechanic mate is coming to sort my mistakes with the use of his equipment.

Symptoms that did show were vaccum read between 20 (like it read before I fooked it) and 25 (high rev). This was on different idle attempts. Also rev counter would sit at 1,000 but after a while started to dance between 500 and 1000 as engine dropped rev and gained again without me touching anything.

It'll be fixed on Monday, but I so wish I never touched it to start with!