Dave100e

Ive been having problems with my S1 to the point i stopped using it and bought a Datsun S13 instead. Ive still got the S1 though and fully intend to get it back on the road.

There was a severe running problem where it would just splutter and die when under load but as soon as you take it out of gear it runs and revs fine.

Ive changed the fuel pump, the coil, the dizzy cap and rotor and the plugs so far. I know the leads are good and the injectors are fairly recent. The metering unit seems to be doing the job aswell.

Now all i can think of are the AMAL valve or the ECU. Im leaving the ECU as a last resort as the car currently has a good chip and i dont want to be disturbing it.

I recently looked at the AMAL valve only to find theres a pipe missing. There is the outlets, one going to the Wastegate, one going to the turbo somewhere but the other, the middle i think, is bare. Im not sure if it should go to the Air filter or ECU or something else? I currently have a cone filter on the car.

I can take pictures if needs be.

Your help is greatly appreciated and will get my interest right back up with this car instead of my wanting to sell it!

rickbartlett

all my rs turbos have not had amal valve connected mate.they become faulty.try unplugging the plug thats on it.
mine did what yours is doing and it was spark plugs.gap was wrong.be best to take it to someone like jamsport mate and get it checkd over

sillymofo

if your car is chipped its not uncommon to have a pipe disconnected it is to cheat the ecu's map sensor so you can run more than ten psi of boost as for the spluttering under load i would check the voltage going to the fuel pump as it sounds like fuel starvation it should be a minimum of 8 volts at tickover

marky_g

first ting i did when i got mind was bin it

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Your info is a little bit off there fella.....

!! Do not ever disconnect the pipe to the ECU or you will have nothing but a dead engine, the ECU retards the timing based on the MAP sensor's input and if it doesnt then you will Detonate at the very least blowing your HG and at the worst putting a hole in your pistons and or cracking your head!!!!
Fuel pump voltage is not variable and should be around 12v at idle not 8v!!

To answer Dave100e's question the 3rd pipe goes to the metering unit, if it's not connected and your car runs then my guess would be that the return has been blocked off on the metering unit, which is fine

Dave100e

OK, fair enough. So the AMAL valve doesnt really matter then.

Has anyone got anymore suggestions as to what could be causing the problem?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Could be incorrect fuelling, if your lean under load might be blowing the spark out? If your running high boost then turn it down to 7psi (standard) and see if that makes a difference.

Dave100e

It ran spot on though for ages. Ive checked the gaps on the new plugs and they where spot on.

It has a -32 actuator. Can these be adjusted or is it a spring inside a daiphragm?

Pat

This sounds very similar to the problem i have with mine..

Mine does the same when i want to launch it.. it wont pay ball. misfires and cuts out..

Got new coil, leads, plugs,

Dave100e

Bingo. exactly what mine does. If i do get it rolling i cant throttle on any more then 10% or it splutters and dies and often throws a big flame out the back.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

It's overfuelling mate, choking itself, the big flame is a dead give away!!
Or the timing is retarded to much, either way get it setup you cant do it your self!

PaulT

If the amal valve has a pipe R missing has the metering head to where it should be connected been blocked off? Amal valve is there to reduce boost if the charge temp gets to high. Get it set up and all will be sorted.

Dave100e

Im not sure where it should be connected. Where the injector pipes come out , on the side there is the return. At the next corner there is an arrow pointing out but nothing connected. Is this a bleed or should it be connected to something?

Next to that, what looks to be the return line, there is what lookes to be a diaphragm breathing hole but could well be a connection. Should it be connected up there?

Ive looked for somewhere to get it set up in the past, in the north west, but no-one replies to my e-mails or answers phone calls and i gave up.

PaulT

Where the cone filter sits look straight down and you should find a take off point same size as the amal piping, if its been removed you will probably find a piece of pipe with a bolt in it as a crude method of blocking it off to stop air leaks. This pipe R on the previous diagram and is the only pipe that needs to be air tight, this may be the source of your problem.

PaulT

Dave100e

I cant find it. If i look directly downwards from the front of the car, is it to the left or upwards? There is a screw directly above it but i cant really see anything else.

Sorry for being a bit stupid like.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

It's down on the left hand side mate as if you were looking down at the gearbox.

Dave100e

Is it next to the plug on the left of the injector pipes?

Or on the metering unit next to the filter? I cant find anything there.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Here mate you can see the bit the hose fits over sticking out, and is normally held on with a spring clip or a jubilee!



The big RED ARROW above here! Ignore the rest of the shit in the pic.

Dave100e

Thanks for that. REALLY really appreciated. Sorry for being a bit of an idiot and not finding it.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

LOL No worries mate hope you get it sorted!

Dave100e

Ive just had another look at the car and there isnt anything there at all. Would that mean i have a S2 metering unit or even S2 management?

If theres nothing there for it, does it matter if its not connected?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

The S2 has exactly the same thing mate so maybe someone has cut it off and sealed it up?? But no it doesnt matter if it's not there, it just means your Amal is bleeding to atmosphere instead of back into the metering unit, perfectly fine!

Dave100e

So does eveyone think the car needs setting up? Is it worth replacing the ECU's to see if it makes a difference?

notroubleclubber

Have u got a dump valve? If so, it could be leaking. had same prob with mine.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Well worth checking! If you have just remove it and blank off the hole.

Dave100e

Nah, no dump valves here.

It ran fine for about 3 months and i never touched anything. Then one day after sitting around for about 15 minutes pretty much idling then it wouldnt pull away properly. It was ok after a bit but then now and then it would do it, more consistently until it would never work.

notroubleclubber

Boody crappy mfi. As soon as mine starts playing up its goin in the bin and im goin efi,or cossie.

Dave100e

is it a lot of work to go Efi? I know cossie is quite involved. Is there any major benfits from Efi? If i had the cash id go Standalone but i cant really afford it to be honest.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Sticky at the top of the page on how to convert to EFI mate.

A10SAP

all this talk about the amal valve but why is it my car will idle lovely in the mornings with it connected up with no bleed valve, and it runs at 20psi, disconect it and put the bleed valve on and bring boost down to 15psi why does the car not like to idle?

Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

Mine was doing exactly the same. It was the vacuum hose that goes into the bottom of the ecu had twisted! It can also wiggle its way under the heater and get squashed.
worth just whiping the heater out and having a look.

A10SAP

u talking to me? lol

vroooom ptssssh

I had a simmilar prob, my coil was breaking down under load, and also when hot! changed coil, went fine

Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

no the dude who started the thread! lol