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S2 final issues

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Old 20-09-2008, 09:35 AM
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Default S2 final issues

Just finishing rebuilding my S2 RST, and just got a niggling problem. The car will start first time, but will NOT stay running no matter what you do. It just starts then immediately stops. Im not sh*t hot with these RST's, but have found a few issues! I have put a brand new fuel pump on which is working correctly, and changed the fuel relay.

Then got underneath her to check all wiring etc and found the following................

1) There is a unit on the gearbox that the speedo cable comes from, it also has a wiring plug that is not plugged into anything?!? And there is nothing nearby to plug it into. The 3 wires are: yellow/brown, black/brown, and brown.

2) There are two wires that come next to the metering unit. (all plugs are connected to the metering unit, so it isnt anything there). According to the wiring diagram, it should be connected to the wastegate solenoid. But where the haynes manual says it is, it isnt! (its supposed to be under the dizzy)

3) Underneath the car - the knock sensor cable and the sensor itself are just hanging down doing nothing

4) The car has Defi gauges fitted. Where the oil feed for the turbo comes out next to the oil filter, there is a metal block that has the wires for the defi gauages coming ot of it. It has only one wire from the cars loom connected to the bottom of it (green/brown)

5) There is a temp sensor and its wires also hanging down behind the engine. The wires to this are brown/green and brown.

Looking round and there doesnt seem to be anything that isnt plugged in, nothing obvious to me that seems out of place. The auxilliary air device is plugged in.

The thing baffling me is the wires that apparently are supposed to go to the wastegate solenoid?!? Yet its not there?

The block is indeed a 1.6, the car does have some form of uprated actuator.
Old 20-09-2008, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by D200RST
Just finishing rebuilding my S2 RST, and just got a niggling problem. The car will start first time, but will NOT stay running no matter what you do. It just starts then immediately stops. Im not sh*t hot with these RST's, but have found a few issues! I have put a brand new fuel pump on which is working correctly, and changed the fuel relay.

Then got underneath her to check all wiring etc and found the following................

1) There is a unit on the gearbox that the speedo cable comes from, it also has a wiring plug that is not plugged into anything?!? And there is nothing nearby to plug it into. The 3 wires are: yellow/brown, black/brown, and brown.
2) There are two wires that come next to the metering unit. (all plugs are connected to the metering unit, so it isnt anything there). According to the wiring diagram, it should be connected to the wastegate solenoid. But where the haynes manual says it is, it isnt! (its supposed to be under the dizzy)

3) Underneath the car - the knock sensor cable and the sensor itself are just hanging down doing nothing

4) The car has Defi gauges fitted. Where the oil feed for the turbo comes out next to the oil filter, there is a metal block that has the wires for the defi gauages coming ot of it. It has only one wire from the cars loom connected to the bottom of it (green/brown)

5) There is a temp sensor and its wires also hanging down behind the engine. The wires to this are brown/green and brown.

Looking round and there doesnt seem to be anything that isnt plugged in, nothing obvious to me that seems out of place. The auxilliary air device is plugged in.

The thing baffling me is the wires that apparently are supposed to go to the wastegate solenoid?!? Yet its not there?

The block is indeed a 1.6, the car does have some form of uprated actuator.



1.if you have a fuel computer it pulgs in to that loom, if you dont teh sensor if not needed and you can remove it on just leave it in there)

2. amel valve you dont need 1 but you can have 1 (its complicated)

3. (if you have a hole on the side of the inlet where the vac for the brakes comes off then fit it there- could cause stalling, if the inlet doesnt have the hole people do leave em to hang as its if a 87> loom it will have a knock sensor plug that needs plugging )

4, oil pressure switch, you prob have the defi sender in its place, dont need it if you new ways shows oil pressurer fine, you coudl get another T to fit it but it stats getting a bit unstable under there and easy to snap of at the block

5. prob plugs in on the inlet, theres always 1 or too left off

wastsegate solinoid is a amel valve, fits to teh gearbox pointing up and has 3 pipes go to it (1 from m/head, 1 from turbo and 1 from actuator)
Old 20-09-2008, 10:07 AM
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do your best with what ive said but i gotta go out so quickly typed it out roughly
Old 20-09-2008, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 1.9 xr2 on 40's
1.if you have a fuel computer it pulgs in to that loom, if you dont teh sensor if not needed and you can remove it on just leave it in there)

2. amel valve you dont need 1 but you can have 1 (its complicated)

3. (if you have a hole on the side of the inlet where the vac for the brakes comes off then fit it there- could cause stalling, if the inlet doesnt have the hole people do leave em to hang as its if a 87> loom it will have a knock sensor plug that needs plugging )

4, oil pressure switch, you prob have the defi sender in its place, dont need it if you new ways shows oil pressurer fine, you coudl get another T to fit it but it stats getting a bit unstable under there and easy to snap of at the block

5. prob plugs in on the inlet, theres always 1 or too left off

wastsegate solinoid is a amel valve, fits to teh gearbox pointing up and has 3 pipes go to it (1 from m/head, 1 from turbo and 1 from actuator)

Ok, thanks for that. There is no hole that i can see for the knock sensor, what should i do with it?

The wires that go to the amal valve are just flapping around by the metering unit. Dont even have a plug on them? What should i do with them? (green/brown and black)
Old 20-09-2008, 10:16 AM
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Its just weird that i have nowhere for the knock sensor to plug in, nowhere for a temp sensor to plug in?
Old 20-09-2008, 02:10 PM
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early inlets dont have knockers so no hole (D plate) if you have a later loom you need it connected but just leave it hanging somewhere (ro tie it up if you are posh)

amel valve wiring well i never use em so i would just insulate em up and ignore them

this plug must go somewhere what colour is it?
Old 21-09-2008, 06:51 PM
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So the biggest concern is, what is making the car not run?? If the amel valve is not plugged in, and i dont have any method of controlling boost, i also dont wish to use a bleed valve.

That temp sensor also need a home?

The car is a F plate. (88)
Old 21-09-2008, 08:43 PM
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what color is the temp sensor?

Just have a good look around the inlet, there are many sensors connected over there. Some of them you almost can't see from the top off the car. have a good look around the inlet, i bet you will find it
Old 21-09-2008, 08:44 PM
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also you maybe should take your car to a tuner to get is set up. Maybe your timing and fuelling is out.
Old 22-09-2008, 07:19 PM
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ive been under the car, its up on stands. just cannot find it. but this isnt whats causing the car not to run. any idea on what to look at now?? it just wont stay running, i tried it again today, and if you rev it hard when it starts, it will stay running. but it runs like a bag of shit, and if you let the revs drop below 4k, it will just begin to die and then stall. (while the revs are dropping, no matter how much i pump the throttle, it will not stay running)
Old 22-09-2008, 07:28 PM
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check fuel pressure sounds like its firing on cold start but doesnt have enough pressure to fuel past metering head check all boost pipes and vacumes arent split temperature sensure should go underneath the middle of plenum
Old 22-09-2008, 08:44 PM
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i have put a full new samco hose set on, and the remaining ford hoses seem fine. But will check them again. im uploading pics in a second to show a few things. including the back of the engine
Old 22-09-2008, 08:54 PM
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ye check and double check the boost pipes are on and theres no splits in them.
Old 22-09-2008, 08:57 PM
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Pic of turbo:


Pic of wires mentioned:


Pics of top of gearbox:




Defi oil pressure:


Pics of back of engine:




Knock sensor doing diddly squat:


Other sensor hanging around:


Quick one of engine bay:
Old 22-09-2008, 09:08 PM
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Mine was like this!!! ur fuel metering unit could be the cause?
it might have been fiddeld with like mine...
i got some new ht leads new plugs new fuel relay, new fuel. i fucked around with the metering unit till it ideld on its own< (not ment to do this).
are all the connections on right on the back of the block i.e ur could start etc?? there was a pictured diagram on here somewhere showing how it should be.....
Old 22-09-2008, 09:11 PM
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does this help at all . took me ages to find it.

Old 22-09-2008, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kevnoize
Mine was like this!!! ur fuel metering unit could be the cause?
it might have been fiddeld with like mine...
i got some new ht leads new plugs new fuel relay, new fuel. i fucked around with the metering unit till it ideld on its own< (not ment to do this).
are all the connections on right on the back of the block i.e ur could start etc?? there was a pictured diagram on here somewhere showing how it should be.....
Metering unit does look fucked about with, there was a rivet with tape round it stuffed in the hole where the screw as on top. But ive used the wiring diagram from haynes manual, and the plugs that are plugged in, are correct.
Old 22-09-2008, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NATH-RSZT
does this help at all . took me ages to find it.

Awesome! Thanks for that.

The yellow, brown, blue and black are plugged in correctly. The knock sensor has nowhere to go, so that will have to stay hanging somewhere safely. Just got to get that coolant temp one back in.
Old 22-09-2008, 09:19 PM
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Just the small matter of the Amel valve (or lack of one!). From the pics, do i need one?

What shall i do with the wires that did go to the amal valve? Should i crimp them together or leave them seperated?

The pipe from the actuator just goes onto the turbo
Old 22-09-2008, 09:21 PM
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leave the wires for the amal valve, just tape them up , make sure they are not touching.

It sounds like the problam is else were.
Old 22-09-2008, 09:22 PM
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try unpluggin the blue one the cold start valve then try starting it. IF IT dont start at all then you know its the fueling side (metering head) etc.

As its just about starting it could just be running off the cold start valve.

hold on just looked at your pics again and you dont have the hose from the turbo to the metering head on.
Old 22-09-2008, 09:22 PM
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browse my threads mate, might come accross some things u may not know... couple of pics of amal valve etc aswel..
Old 22-09-2008, 10:17 PM
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yeah that's also what i saw, the hose from the turbo to the meteringhead is not on your car, but i hope that isn't the problem else it's to easy

Try starting the car without the airfilter and push the gold flap down while starting. if it runs with that there's a problem with your hoses or fuelling is way out...

Are you sure you're getting fuel to your injectors? and didn't you change the meteringhead else it has to be set up again...
Old 23-09-2008, 08:19 AM
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im having the exact same prob now! was running fine last nyt, now its just running for 3 seconds an cuttin out.
im wondering if its the fuel relay plug in the drivers foot well, coz i unplugged it and its just doin the same?

gotta love fords woo hoo.
Old 23-09-2008, 11:15 AM
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Seems like mines just firing on cold start, cos there's no fuel goin to the injectoRS at all.....

Confused.com
Old 23-09-2008, 07:24 PM
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Anybody know then why the hose from my actuator goes back to the turbo as in pic1? Anybody see anything glaringly obvious?

I must say a big thanks to all of you, nice to get some good friendly help!
Old 23-09-2008, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by kevnoize
im having the exact same prob now! was running fine last nyt, now its just running for 3 seconds an cuttin out.
im wondering if its the fuel relay plug in the drivers foot well, coz i unplugged it and its just doin the same?

gotta love fords woo hoo.
Thats what mine is doing mate
Old 23-09-2008, 07:34 PM
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yeah try cold start valve mate.mine had similar problem.also check heated seats fuse in fuse box as that is 4 the fueling side of ecu
Old 23-09-2008, 07:41 PM
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Yeah it started running now, but when u unlpug the coldstart it runs for about a minute then cuts out.

tested all fuses all seem to be fine. theres no fuel goin to the injectors part from the coldstart 1 if im right in saying that? so fook knwos what now.

checked / tested unlpuged pluged in everything i can think of now. so im finaly giving up an gonna get it to a tuners.

im probs only making it worse fucking about with it myself anyway.
Old 23-09-2008, 07:52 PM
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Anybody know then why the hose from my actuator goes back to the turbo as in pic1? Anybody see anything glaringly obvious?

I must say a big thanks to all of you, nice to get some good friendly help
Old 23-09-2008, 08:34 PM
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on mine bud the pipe off the actuator and turbo connect to the amal valve.

theres a pipe from the bottom of the fuel metering unit that connects to the bottom plug on the amal valve, then the pipe off the actuator go's to the top plug on the amal valve, and the pipe off the turbo go's onto the middle plug on the amal valve!
Old 23-09-2008, 08:45 PM
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altight bro, u no on picture 10? is that white plug situated at the back of the engine?

thats the 1 i have hangin around! i wonder if the same bloke built/rigged r fuckin cars ha ha

CUNT!
Old 24-09-2008, 01:08 PM
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so, is the pipe from the actuator okay??
Old 24-09-2008, 01:38 PM
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mines a bog standard engine so everythings on it thats ment to be mate, i dunno why the pipe from ur turbo is connected to ur actuator? maybe its just a bypass coz u have no amal valve?

im not very clued up myself like...
Old 24-09-2008, 04:05 PM
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looks to my like a bypass for the amal valve.

But on the metering unit... left side there is a connection for the third hose of the amal valve? what do you got connect there? or nothing in maybe it's sucking in air and that's why it aint running?
Old 24-09-2008, 07:21 PM
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SHE RUNS!

After changing the metering unit, and removing and redoing each and every hose to the engine, she started flick of the key and ran smooth!!

Next issues...............

The car took a reasonable time to heat up, and the thermostat worked as it should. The twin fans cut in too at about half way, and boy do those Spal fans move some air around!!

But i noticed that the brand new header tank had started to expand quite a lot!!!!! Felt all water hoses and they were all hot, as was the radiator so doesnt seem like an air lock anywhere. One of the sensors hanging down behind the engine was the coolant sensor. On RST's ive had before, they have had a connector in the water hoses behind the engine that this screws into. But my car doesnt have this?? Thus nowhere to put the sensor. Would this be the issue?

Also, when it was running, i removed the oil filler cap and it immediately stalled. Usually they dont do this.

It also would not idle below 1800rpm.

Any ideas on the above?
Old 24-09-2008, 08:13 PM
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Congrats!!!!
Old 25-09-2008, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by D200RST
SHE RUNS!

After changing the metering unit, and removing and redoing each and every hose to the engine, she started flick of the key and ran smooth!!

Next issues...............

The car took a reasonable time to heat up, and the thermostat worked as it should. The twin fans cut in too at about half way, and boy do those Spal fans move some air around!!

But i noticed that the brand new header tank had started to expand quite a lot!!!!! Felt all water hoses and they were all hot, as was the radiator so doesnt seem like an air lock anywhere. One of the sensors hanging down behind the engine was the coolant sensor. On RST's ive had before, they have had a connector in the water hoses behind the engine that this screws into. But my car doesnt have this?? Thus nowhere to put the sensor. Would this be the issue?

Also, when it was running, i removed the oil filler cap and it immediately stalled. Usually they dont do this.

It also would not idle below 1800rpm.

Any ideas on the above?
Anybody?
Old 25-09-2008, 09:03 AM
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yes when you take the oil cap off an mfi setup it will either die or run crap as they have the vacume plumbed into the engine (that is completely normal).

Also that coolent plug thats hanging does that not plug into the grey plug round the back of the engine. take a look in the picture above and look for grey coolent plug.

When this plug is plugged in the revs will die down as the ecu does not know when the engine is hot so its running rich on cold start all the time.
Old 25-09-2008, 09:22 AM
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I did look at the pic mate, i have the sensor itself and the plug hanging down. The piece of metal in the pipe that the coolant sensor screws into, isnt there!

Any idea on why the header tank looking like its going to explode??


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