sump gasket
27-06-2007, 10:38 AM
#1
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sump gasket
how many parts are their to the sump gasket is it a 1 part of 2 part gasket
also how hard will it be to get to the oil pick up pipe my one needs a clean
also how hard will it be to get to the oil pick up pipe my one needs a clean
28-06-2007, 04:55 PM
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Yeah tell me about it. I am on my 3rd gasket and it still leaks! This time it was ok for a week or so then it started to leak again! Does anyone have any miracle cures for this? I stuck it to the bottom of the engine with spray glue last time so the gasket could not move when fitting. How about using two tubes of red gasket as well as the rubber one? Or could it be the oil breather system?
28-06-2007, 05:56 PM
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Apparently the Payen gaskets are the best ones for the job, supposed to be the best fitting like 
I put a cheapo one on my RST lump when i built it and i knew it was going to leak before i even got the engine in the car.....
I put a cheapo one on my RST lump when i built it and i knew it was going to leak before i even got the engine in the car.....
28-06-2007, 06:31 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by fiecos dan
Sump, i can do a sump replacement in 3 hours, and theres a technique to getting it right every time.
Remove for ease, gearbox cover, starter,remove belt move alternator as far forwards as pos, and drive shaft if equal length one fitted.
Some exhaust dont need removing but mine does.
Then remove sump.
-clean the sump and block well,
-apply red hermintite (or similar drying sealant) on joints of block and oil pump and rear crank oil seal case.
-Apply Orange hermintite sealant (or similar) to half moons on the block.
-now apply spray glue (as sold in DIY shops for carpets) to sump and block.
- now fit gasket to sump so it sticks to the glue.
-then fit sump and gasket to engine
- tighten bolts to screw driver tightness (NO MORE, as will course gasket to squash out.
now refit everything, and fill with oil and start up,
recheck the bolts once warm, and a few days later.
Job done
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