I will try and explain the best i can here goes.......If i leave the car for a week or so the starts fine, when i take it out and stop for petrol and turn it off it will start again no problems but if i stop and turn it off and leave it 20 mins or so and come to start it again it will not start, it turns over but will not fire up. I know it could be anything but has anyone had this problem ??

Ive changed plugs, leads, dizzy, rotor arm and the car has a turbo timer on which works fine. Im gonna change the ignition coil next...

Please help me as its driving me mad.............

 

like you say could be coil or maybe a duff altenator safe chav or rick would be the guys for these kinnda problems

 

Cheers turboloon

 

Has anybody had this problem ?????

 

Anybody ???

 

dudee im geting the same problem and ive got a group A coil its bugging me

 

Could it be the metering head then ? SaqsS2turbo Ive got a spare one at home but it doesnt have the screw that you turn to set the CO mixture, the bit that stands up behind where a filter would go. I was gonna try and make one good one out of the two

 

oooooo sweeet can do with one dude pm me the details

 

i think it is the metering head the floats pin leaked on my last one a hell of a lot

 

i'd almost guarantee the one way valve in the pump is fucked, either that or you have a leak somewhere on the main fuel line which is allowing the pressure to drop off

 

in that case i just figured my problem out

 

SafeChav would that explain why it will start if i leave it a week, but if i try to start it after 20mins it wont start. Yet it runs fine when i drive it

 

ok accoring to matty my problem ent solved

 

SaqsS2turbo are you having the same problems as me then mate ??

 

yup sure am loll its a basterd

 

Can SafeChav conform that the problem is the one way valve pump is fucked thats why we are having the problems that ive stated

 

were is the one way valve in the pump?

 

My starting problems were solved when I replaced the Injector O-rings and collets. I found these need to fit and seal 100% or it will cause no end of problems starting hot or cold.

The other thing is that wires in the fuse box that have been patched in between fuses, these made the immobiliser play up again, with various symptoms.

Hope this helps

Lee

 

Cheers mentalasanything ill check my wires to the fuse box and fuses, are the injector seals and collets expensive to buy and are they easy to fit ??

 

I can't guarantee your fault, but i know mine had a very similar fault. It wouldnt start perfect from cold, but you didnt have to crank it over for 5 minutes solid like you did when it was hot and you switched off to put petrol in (which got very embarasing on a daily basis )

Check for pressure, leave it overnight and before you even put the key in the ignition push the flap on the metering head down and it should rise back smoothly, if it springs back then it has lost pressure.

As a yard stick, after that prime the pump a few times and repeat the test.......thats the easiest way

 

Cheers SafeChav I shall try what you have suggested mate

 

Its certainly worth a try, won't cost you anything

 

right i done all this and it is the injector seals got damn little things lol car starts perfect now

 

I left mine for 30 mins tops again 2day went to move it and it wouldnt start, took the filter off pressed the flap and it sprang back didnt come back up smooth, does this mean i need a new metering head ?

 

The car has an auto speacialist fuel pump if this helps or is it the metering head ?

 

If it sprang back instantly and didnt rise smoothly you are losing the fuel pressure as i suggested.

If there is no leaks on the main fuel line try a new one way valve. If you sit in the car after switch off you will probably hear all kinds of noises from the tank where the fuel pressure is being released back into the tank

 

my mechanics said that "he doing something on metering head" and how car is starting wery good. he said that I must rebild metering head. before that, I have same problem- wont start when hot

 

SafeChav Where is the one way valve on the metering head as i have a spare one and is it an easy job to do ? Could it be possible that im losing pressure through the injector seals like SaqsS2turbo ?


SaqsS2turbo how much for new injector seals and where can i get a set from ?
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The valve is screwed ino the fuel pump, its not on the metering head.

The injector seals present an air leak, not the same thing The fuel pressure is held in the main fuel line only when the car is switched off.

If it was injectors seals you would probably hear the air being drawn in, very rare to happen being honest.

 

I put a brand new fuel pump on it less than 2 months ago, an auto specailists cossie fuel pump for a S2

 

Doesnt mean to say the valve isn't faulty. Don't get me wrong though, it simply unscrews

You haven't got to buy a new pump or anything like that!

 

If it is that valve in the pump how do i fix it then ?

 

Well firstly i'd whip it off and see if you can blow through it! Mine was stuck open so i was able to blow through it

 

Im no mechanical If im not getting pressure is it coz the valve is stuck open or shut ? Can it be fixed if its open/closed

 

The valve should close up to hold the pressure in the line, if they stick open all the pressure gets forced back into the tank when you switch off.

Also means your pump is getting more knackered each time it primes up after a long switch off.

 

Ive had a look in the haynes manual and a friend has advised me that i should change the fuel pressure regulator on the inside of the fuel distrubutor, i have a spare one at home so i may try that