BIG PROBLEM- Car is slow on 1 bar !!!
#1
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Hello
As I say before, my car dont go under 0.5 bar. I set wastegate arm fully short for max boost, and drive with short WG for few days.
BUT today I go to garage and I drive car with they boost gauge--and I have 1 bar!!! my boost gauge is faulyt or air leak somewhere.
BUT car going slow, for 1 bar. car pull ok after 3500 but nothing special. If I set 0.5 bar car is veery slow.
Whats the problem, maybe injectors, or head????
Maybe I can try with screw on fuel distributor to get more fuel??
ANY IDEAS?
HELP needed PLEASE
As I say before, my car dont go under 0.5 bar. I set wastegate arm fully short for max boost, and drive with short WG for few days.
BUT today I go to garage and I drive car with they boost gauge--and I have 1 bar!!! my boost gauge is faulyt or air leak somewhere.
BUT car going slow, for 1 bar. car pull ok after 3500 but nothing special. If I set 0.5 bar car is veery slow.
Whats the problem, maybe injectors, or head????
Maybe I can try with screw on fuel distributor to get more fuel??
ANY IDEAS?
HELP needed PLEASE
#6
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as rick says most likely retarded ignition timing or to rich or weak a fuel mixture
take it for a rolling road tune is your best bet as you dont sound very mechanically minded
where abouts are you ?
take it for a rolling road tune is your best bet as you dont sound very mechanically minded
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where abouts are you ?
#7
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I am from croatia and never had a turbocharged car. English poor and turbo aqnowledge poor= not good.
In my city dont have ROLLING ROAD
only mechanics.
How can I retard ignition timing or to rich a fuel mixture ?
I must have some XX meters, lambdas... ?
I check plugs, and 1st (1st yl left) is black , second and 3th brown, and last is little black with brown.
Maybe I havent same quantity of fuel in every cylinder?
In my city dont have ROLLING ROAD
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How can I retard ignition timing or to rich a fuel mixture ?
I must have some XX meters, lambdas... ?
I check plugs, and 1st (1st yl left) is black , second and 3th brown, and last is little black with brown.
Maybe I havent same quantity of fuel in every cylinder?
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#8
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Try this first:
The distributor is mounted on the side of the cylinder head, on the same side as the gearbox. It is where all the spark plug leads come from.
It is held in by 2 10mm bolts. Loosen these bolts (dont take them out) and then you can twist the distributor. When you twist it, you change the timing. If you are standing by the wing, looking at the distributor, you need to turn it clockwise to ADVANCE the timing. You are turning towards the back of the engine if you are standing infront of the engine bay.
You may see some marks that people have made before when adjusting the timing. Make a note where the distibutor is before you move it.
Try moving it about 2mm (a very small amount). This will advance the timing. See how the car drives.
The distributor is mounted on the side of the cylinder head, on the same side as the gearbox. It is where all the spark plug leads come from.
It is held in by 2 10mm bolts. Loosen these bolts (dont take them out) and then you can twist the distributor. When you twist it, you change the timing. If you are standing by the wing, looking at the distributor, you need to turn it clockwise to ADVANCE the timing. You are turning towards the back of the engine if you are standing infront of the engine bay.
You may see some marks that people have made before when adjusting the timing. Make a note where the distibutor is before you move it.
Try moving it about 2mm (a very small amount). This will advance the timing. See how the car drives.
#9
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I am not sure if I know this... How can I see if I doing right mixure? See with lambda in exhaust and see for O2?
Is this correct order: set turbo at 0.55 bar, then set fuel ? little richer
Is this recommended for me (someone who never do this) ?
Thanks mate
Is this correct order: set turbo at 0.55 bar, then set fuel ? little richer
Is this recommended for me (someone who never do this) ?
Thanks mate
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Don't turn it too far otherwise you may have too much advance and suffer from detonation.
You could also have a charge air temperature sensor fault which will also retard your ignition timing which will be costing you power.
Also if you have a knock sensor on the inlet manifold, remove it and leave it plugged into the loom. Just strap it to the loom somewhere away from the engine.
You need a wide band lambda/AFR guage to set up your fueling. Like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Innovate-Motor...QQcmdZViewItem
You need some form of listening device (commonly called det cans) for the ignition timing. The one on this page (the VS007) is ideal for listening for det (rattling/pinging sounds) http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Sh...s-Stethoscopes
You could also have a charge air temperature sensor fault which will also retard your ignition timing which will be costing you power.
Also if you have a knock sensor on the inlet manifold, remove it and leave it plugged into the loom. Just strap it to the loom somewhere away from the engine.
You need a wide band lambda/AFR guage to set up your fueling. Like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Innovate-Motor...QQcmdZViewItem
You need some form of listening device (commonly called det cans) for the ignition timing. The one on this page (the VS007) is ideal for listening for det (rattling/pinging sounds) http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Sh...s-Stethoscopes
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Originally Posted by Dragsteer
I am not sure if I know this... How can I see if I doing right mixure? See with lambda in exhaust and see for O2?
Is this correct order: set turbo at 0.55 bar, then set fuel ? little richer
Is this recommended for me (someone who never do this) ?
Thanks mate
Is this correct order: set turbo at 0.55 bar, then set fuel ? little richer
Is this recommended for me (someone who never do this) ?
Thanks mate
![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
You need an AFR/Lambda guage. It's not really advisable that you play around with it if you have never done it before although every one has to learn somewhere. Rick is probably the best man to ask about this as he has spent a lot of time adjusting his own car using an AFR guage.
Just a warning that if you don't get it right, you will either lose power (and maybe bore wash the engineand wear the bores away) or melt the engine!!
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DazC: thanks for links.
I understand now. I think I will go to some who knows what he doing and have lambda/afr gauge.
Thanks everyone to posting, I will write soon when I setup all
I understand now. I think I will go to some who knows what he doing and have lambda/afr gauge.
Thanks everyone to posting, I will write soon when I setup all
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