c o screw
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hay guys got a problem with me c o srew its not doing anything ie not adjusting in any way and the car is running well rich removed screw and found that the c o srew is not touching by about 1/4 " so had a mad half hour and thought i take the hole meatering unit of oh mate i am now cutting the bolts of 2 hours later that hold the unit on then i found that the creatures have been at it oh well time for a clean up and rebuild i think
anyway the reason for the post is can the c o srew be brought as a seperate part or am i pissing in the wind with this and just get scond hand unit and make a good 1 out of the 2.
thanks buddys.
anyway the reason for the post is can the c o srew be brought as a seperate part or am i pissing in the wind with this and just get scond hand unit and make a good 1 out of the 2.
thanks buddys.
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big al thanks for the diagram.
dragsteer just out of interest i thought that if you push screw down when in situ it puts the setup out ?let me no please m8 also i tried all diferant ways and screw dont move at all so come to the conclution that it is dead.
sunny have you got the srew or hole unit m8 ?.
dragsteer just out of interest i thought that if you push screw down when in situ it puts the setup out ?let me no please m8 also i tried all diferant ways and screw dont move at all so come to the conclution that it is dead.
sunny have you got the srew or hole unit m8 ?.
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hay guys more help needed ? can anybody tell me how the flap in the meatering unit moves on start up r does it stay in the fully up position all the time? example if i start the engine then it starves itself of air if i push the flap down then it runs a lot better ie with a little gap around the flap can anybody shed any light on this.
thanks.
thanks.
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There was a thread about this not so long ago, as ive got a problem with mine starting and i sometimes need to press the flap down to start the car and i read this was down to the car needing setting up on a fuel machine(gods knows what there called). Have to tried a bit of WD-40 or something the same on the screw as mine was stuck until i greased it
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mattyrst
my c o screw is working ok i am just confused by the flap in the meatering unit, i need to no if the flap should move when the car is starting or on tick over does it have a little gap aroung the plate if so how does it work, like whot controls it?
thanks.
my c o screw is working ok i am just confused by the flap in the meatering unit, i need to no if the flap should move when the car is starting or on tick over does it have a little gap aroung the plate if so how does it work, like whot controls it?
thanks.
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It is easily done, but also easy to do wrong.
The little box you have replaced is an Electro magnetic fuel pressure actuator. The black ecu u can see behind the heater box takes inputs from all the sensors in the engine bay. It then sends a signal to the EMFPA which varies the fuel pressure depending on engine and driving conditions.
It works by increasing or decreasing from a base fuel pressure. This base fuel pressure can be adjusted, and is different for prerry much every car/EMFPA. So you have fitted one of another car, and it's not right for yours.
Without fuel monitoring equipment, you never know what your actually adjusting to, which is never a good thing. The EMFPA actuator adjusts the fuelling across the whole of the rev range. There is also a 3mm allen screw by the metering head, which adjusts justs the idle fuelling. The car is not firing probably because the mixture is too lean.
Before you try adjusting anything, you should do a simple test. Take the airfilter off, and you will see the metering flap. Push it - it should move down an inch or so.
Now, get someone to crank over the engine. You should see this flap moving up and down a few mm. If it doesn't - the car will never start, and you have an air leak somewhere. If it is pulsing, then while someone is cranking, push it down a little more. I mean a LITTLE, it's very sensitive. If the car starts, or at least tries too, it means that your idle mixture is too weak.
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The little box you have replaced is an Electro magnetic fuel pressure actuator. The black ecu u can see behind the heater box takes inputs from all the sensors in the engine bay. It then sends a signal to the EMFPA which varies the fuel pressure depending on engine and driving conditions.
It works by increasing or decreasing from a base fuel pressure. This base fuel pressure can be adjusted, and is different for prerry much every car/EMFPA. So you have fitted one of another car, and it's not right for yours.
Without fuel monitoring equipment, you never know what your actually adjusting to, which is never a good thing. The EMFPA actuator adjusts the fuelling across the whole of the rev range. There is also a 3mm allen screw by the metering head, which adjusts justs the idle fuelling. The car is not firing probably because the mixture is too lean.
Before you try adjusting anything, you should do a simple test. Take the airfilter off, and you will see the metering flap. Push it - it should move down an inch or so.
Now, get someone to crank over the engine. You should see this flap moving up and down a few mm. If it doesn't - the car will never start, and you have an air leak somewhere. If it is pulsing, then while someone is cranking, push it down a little more. I mean a LITTLE, it's very sensitive. If the car starts, or at least tries too, it means that your idle mixture is too weak.
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mattyrst
thanks mattyrst i will have a go at doing what you said also i looked at post from before and got some more of an insite of some more checks thanks again for the info
thanks mattyrst i will have a go at doing what you said also i looked at post from before and got some more of an insite of some more checks thanks again for the info
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