Tandy

( big turbo 92 )
have got a trouble did 50miles no problem then parked up with engine running, after bout 5mins moved away and the car cut out in a way as if i had stalled the car and refused to start. engine does try to go but wont fire. called AA out and found there to be no spark at the plugs and nothing at the injectors. i've also disconnected the battery left car for half hour and reconnected, taken off dizzy cap and rotor arms turns ok. just after as much info as poss thanks in advance for any help

Dave Henshall

u checked all the other obvios, fuses, loose relays, loose battery terminals etc..?

Tandy

have got new fuel pump relay was only Ł7 so thought it was worth getting just in case, def not loose battery terminal as have had the battery on and off and checked connections will check all the relays and fuses and see what happens. gonna have those multi pulgs by the header tank apart and give them the wd40 treatment see what happens

Dave Henshall

ah, for what its worth, dont bother, chop them out one at a time and solder each one together, they are the route of all evil on escorts

Tandy

just found a blown fuse to do with hego sensor fuse no 3. replaced it, it had a 10 amp fuse in and is suppose to be 20amps still wouldnt start. changed fuel pump relay still no joy, will start on checking multi plugs got one apart but other is a pig. im no to good with soldering but i have heard of some owners going down that route. also took all the relays just gave the a visual and all looked in order

ian rst

When i had my car in the bodyshop it did the exact same thing it turned over ok but didnt fire up. When you turn the ignition on does the fuel pump prime up? Mine turned out to be the fuse box the contact which controls the fuel relay had blown had to buy a new box.

Damo V

immobiliser problem, or as above ditch the multiplugs on inner wing, but first it may be worht checking the Crank position sensor, get a new one of those fitted FIRST IMO

Chris Honeywell

Also m8 check the map sensor
mine broke down a while back and it would try to start then give up
turned out my map sensor had died

Tandy

thanks lads plenty of things to try i will give it a go makes life that much easier when there's loads of info will let you know how i get on thanks again

Dave Henshall

if the map sensor failed though, the pump would prime and there would be a spark, just the fuelling would be miles off.

Simon Day

After you have tried all other suggestions dont forget the ECU... My P8 would just turn-over and not fire.. while its being looked at I am now using an L8.

Tandy

The story so far. after trying everything mentioned above i had both multiplugs apart and sprayed with electrical cleaner did same with ignition amp. cleaned the crank sensor as this was smothered in dirt ( ordered a new one as well (damo V ). I put a volt meter across the contacts on the fuse box for the fuel pump relay and got 12 volt back so i think thats ok. took another relay out and did the same, got same result. I have taken the fuse box out of the car now and will take apart to check all the contacts if this isn't the problem i can just give it the once over anyway . im not totally sure i could here the fuel pump when i tried to strart the car had mate under the back of car and he said he heard something like buzz or hum but i couldn't if i remember rightly you should be able to hear to pump prime from in the car as it's fairly loud. ( i have an uprated fuel pump fitted dont know if this makes any odds) again thanks in advance for any advice.

Dave Henshall

if u got 12 volts across the contacts of the relay, then its not pulled, in,, u should get 0 volts across the contacts if its erergised, u would be better checking the ouput pin of the relay to the car shell and see if that goes to 12v when the ignition is on

Tandy

checked all the fuse box, taken apart and all looked good, had couple of dirty joints re soldered just to make sure. after checking fuses again i found the fuse ( no3 ) i replaced the other day had blown again tried another fuse just to make sure and that blew as well. Fuse No. 3 is for the Hego sensor or Weber FIE HEGO sensor to give it, it's full name. So i think this is my problem but any thoughts would be great a new sensor is Ł167.54 + vat part no. 6909240 i think

Dave Henshall

or 70 quid from here.....

part number: 11014T12


http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm


u have to use your old connector though but the new one comes with the crimps to do the job nicely, works spot on on mine and tallys with stus wideband one when reading lambda 1

Damo V

I have my old one available .... original Ford one 50 delivered My ecu doesnt run one so isnt required any more

Tandy

just gave Harvey gibbs a call and he told me to disconnect the sensor and the car might start depending on who conversion i had got and low and behold the car started so def ane sensor required so a big thanks to harvey Gibbs and everyone thats given me advice

Damo v have sent you PM

Dave thanks for the offer but im going to go with the original one but thanks for all your help

DaveEscos

the lambda sensor wiring sometimes chafes and shorts out on the body of the sensor where it crimps

this blows the fuse and stops the engine from starting

i would look at this before diagnosing a dud lamda sensor


i also have one for sale if anyone needs one as Damo says, we dont run ours

Tandy

yep your right with the wiring but im getting another one and will take mine off and try and fix it to have as a spare