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Best guess on weight...

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Old 26-10-2008, 12:48 PM
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SillyFezzaMk1
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Default Best guess on weight...

Hi guys,
Planning on getting my escos project car as light as possible, so your best guesses please as to what it's likely to be when finished.

rwd conversion
compression struts
completely stripped out
909 motorsport shell with full rollcage
Carbon/kevlar seats
flocked dash with custon 'minimum' wiring loom
Lightened front bumper (hole saw attack on the reiforcement metal)
FG hockeys, bib and splitter
FG bootlid
FG wrc spoiler
Original bonnet lightened (hole saw attack again)
Polly windows (all except windscreen)
doors lightened and shell lightened where possible

Whats your best guess guys???

I think about a ton ish... i hope

Cheers
Dan
Old 26-10-2008, 03:32 PM
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kennyA
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Hi Dan

from what you describe, I'd say you are looking at 1075 - 1125kg.

with a bit of work (and money) 1000Kg is possible.

regards

kenny
Old 26-10-2008, 03:41 PM
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What areas do I need to concentrate on to break the 1000kg mark... at a guess just keep replacing steel bits for composite parts

Cheers
Dan

Last edited by SillyFezzaMk1; 26-10-2008 at 03:48 PM.
Old 26-10-2008, 06:14 PM
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kennyA
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to break 1000 is tough but possible. (is only really acceptable on a track car)

you need to get rid of as much steel parts as pos and install Carbon/Kevlar,
Doors, rear hatch, bonnet, bumpers, sills etc.

Remove complete braking system and install pedal box and remote cylinders.

Remove power steering pump - install electric or Hydraulic/electric. (if Hydaulic/electric, install motor/pump under front wing. for electric, install motor on steering column).
5kg can be saved if the complete column is reworked.

Track car only. (due to cost and extra work).
the original Ford loom is very heavy, lose as much as possible or renew the complete loom and fuse box. lighter battery in the back.

Remove complete fuel system and fit smaller tank and pump and lightweight hose with alloy connectors.
remove all original seat fixtures, use lightweight tubing as fixing rails.
all brake calipers exchanged for lightweight alloy items.
all plastic windows except front.
remove complete heating system.
alloy tca's
GpA engine mounts, modify front xmember.
get new steering rack from Titan Motorsport. (to be used with electric motor).
how far do you want to go?

start with the cheaper options and weigh parts as you take them off.

please let me know if you find a way to reach,
600kg front
400kg rear

have fun

kenny.
ps, 400kg rear is quite easy.
Old 26-10-2008, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kennyA
to break 1000 is tough but possible. (is only really acceptable on a track car)

you need to get rid of as much steel parts as pos and install Carbon/Kevlar,
Doors Spotted some on xsport website, was going to ask for pics to see quality but my cage should provide enough side impact protection to ditch the original doorframe and strength, rear hatch CHECK, bonnet CHECK, bumpers I have 2 very good originals I'm toying with the idea of selling to fund lightweight jobbies, sills etc. I just dont want to end up with every panel miles out, suppose it is a price to pay if you want it light.

Remove complete braking system and install pedal box and remote cylinders.CHECK (WITHOUT REMOTE cylinders)

Remove power steering pump - install electric or Hydraulic/electric. (if Hydaulic/electric, install motor/pump under front wing. for electric, install motor on steering column).
5kg can be saved if the complete column is reworked.

Track car only. (due to cost and extra work).
the original Ford loom is very heavy, lose as much as possible or renew the complete loom and fuse box CHECK (GOT A DENNIS OSBOURNE DASH WITH BARE MINIMUM WIRING AND FUSE BOX). lighter battery in the back.CHECK (RED TOP BATTERY)

Remove complete fuel system and fit smaller tank and pump and lightweight hose with alloy connectors. Really? I thought the plastic tank would be light enough...was going to get a twin pump and swirl pot setup to go with the std tank to be honest, I also dont like the idea of the fuel tank i nthe boot raising the C.O.Gravity
remove all original seat fixtures, use lightweight tubing as fixing rails.
all brake calipers exchanged for lightweight alloy items CHECK
all plastic windows except front CHECK
remove complete heating system CHECK (going for heated screen and roof vent, plus sliders on the windows)
alloy tca's
GpA engine mounts, modify front xmember. Was hoping to do something up front tbh probably going to make up a tubular member at work to maybe save some weight.
get new steering rack from Titan Motorsport. (to be used with electric motor).
how far do you want to go?

start with the cheaper options and weigh parts as you take them off.

please let me know if you find a way to reach,
600kg front
400kg rear

have fun

kenny.
ps, 400kg rear is quite easy.
Other things I've done/plan to do to reduce the weight...
  • Lightweight carbon/kevlar seats.
  • Flocked bare dash.
  • Removing the sunroof roofskin and replace with std (or carbon if I can find one).
  • less Transmission weight (gone 2wd instead of 4x4).
  • Gun-Drilling rear driveshafts and gearbox internals (unsure if im going to do this tbh depends on a few quotes I get back)
  • Bare metal (shot blasted shell) respray to remove old paint before new....Otherwise it'd have loads of extra paint....shocking how much extra weight paint adds to your car...I didnt think about it before.
  • Lightweight steering wheel.
  • Attacking any area possible with holesaw.
  • Ally alternator Bracket.
Probably more but can't remember atm...

I reckon If I take the plunge and go for C/K doors, bumpers, bonnet & tailgate I'll not be far off my 1 ton target

Thanks for the info matey
Dan
Old 26-10-2008, 10:36 PM
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kennyA
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Hi Dan

great work, with all the extra planned you should see 1000kg. Looking forward to hearing what you finally achieve.

The front diff alone weighs about 16kg.

I also have the alloy alternator bracket fitted. Lightened flywheel knocks a few kilos off.

The plastic fuel tank was a surprise to me, weighed a bloody ton alone, I installed a 30ltr ATL tank just in front of the rear axle. The CoG is a little bit higher but its a weight saving. (I should have installed a 20ltr)

You should feel the weight of the GpA gun drilled shafts, really light compared to normal. I got a quote from GKN for shafts, £1500 ea for one, £500 ea for 4. The Motorsport joints are also a good idea.

The paint does weigh a lot, I fancied dipping mine and getting rid of all the shite hidden in the places not seen. I think its about £800 for dipping, about £750 for new primar coat.

The front is the hardest place to save weight. If you are going 2WD try to position the engine and gearbox further back.

Post up some photos some time, I'd really like to see the progress.

Kenny.
Old 27-10-2008, 08:04 AM
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SillyFezzaMk1
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Cheers Kenny,

I forgot to mention I have lightened flywheel, and the whole purpose of making a tubular x-member was to put the engine lower and further back.

I have had quotes for gun drilling from a company we use at work....they gave me rough quote at £100 each :O whish seems very cheap to me compared to the prices your talking.....the only thing I'm stuck on is the size of the hole required :S Do you have any info on this????

Cheers
Dan
Old 27-10-2008, 06:39 PM
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kennyA
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Hi Dan

The feedback from GKN was up to 14.6mm was possible, I thought that was huge but thats what they said.

Heres the info they sent me.
Shaft, 514mm x 28mm, 28 spline? (oder 25mm diameter)

1 Stück Profilwelle 300M (S155) L1=514mm @ 1.568,-- Euro/Stück incl Vat.

4 Stück Profilwelle 300M (S155) L1=514mm @ 549,-- Euro/Stück incl Vat.



Shaft, 473mm x 28mm, 28 spline

1 Stück Profilwelle 300M (S155) L1=473mm @ 1.529,-- Euro/Stück incl Vat.

4 Stück Profilwelle 300M (S155) L1=473mm @ 517,-- Euro/Stück incl Vat.
Old 28-10-2008, 01:19 PM
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Hi Kenny,

Just a quick bit of info for you....

HoneAll - 0845 555 5111 will drill 12.5mm hole through both shafts for £94 (inclusive of V.A.T) thats around 118 Euros for both!

I will be sending mine off shortly and will let you know how I get on.

Cheers
Dan
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