Originally Posted by
kennyA
to break 1000 is tough but possible. (is only really acceptable on a track car)
you need to get rid of as much steel parts as pos and install Carbon/Kevlar,
Doors Spotted some on xsport website, was going to ask for pics to see quality but my cage should provide enough side impact protection to ditch the original doorframe and strength, rear hatch CHECK, bonnet CHECK, bumpers I have 2 very good originals I'm toying with the idea of selling to fund lightweight jobbies, sills etc. I just dont want to end up with every panel miles out, suppose it is a price to pay if you want it light.
Remove complete braking system and install pedal box and remote cylinders.CHECK (WITHOUT REMOTE cylinders)
Remove power steering pump - install electric or Hydraulic/electric. (if Hydaulic/electric, install motor/pump under front wing. for electric, install motor on steering column).
5kg can be saved if the complete column is reworked.
Track car only. (due to cost and extra work).
the original Ford loom is very heavy, lose as much as possible or renew the complete loom and fuse box CHECK (GOT A DENNIS OSBOURNE DASH WITH BARE MINIMUM WIRING AND FUSE BOX). lighter battery in the back.CHECK (RED TOP BATTERY)
Remove complete fuel system and fit smaller tank and pump and lightweight hose with alloy connectors. Really? I thought the plastic tank would be light enough...was going to get a twin pump and swirl pot setup to go with the std tank to be honest, I also dont like the idea of the fuel tank i nthe boot raising the C.O.Gravity
remove all original seat fixtures, use lightweight tubing as fixing rails.
all brake calipers exchanged for lightweight alloy items CHECK
all plastic windows except front CHECK
remove complete heating system CHECK (going for heated screen and roof vent, plus sliders on the windows)
alloy tca's
GpA engine mounts, modify front xmember. Was hoping to do something up front tbh probably going to make up a tubular member at work to maybe save some weight.
get new steering rack from Titan Motorsport. (to be used with electric motor).
how far do you want to go?
start with the cheaper options and weigh parts as you take them off.
please let me know if you find a way to reach,
600kg front
400kg rear
have fun
kenny.
ps, 400kg rear is quite easy.
Other things I've done/plan to do to reduce the weight...
- Lightweight carbon/kevlar seats.
- Flocked bare dash.
- Removing the sunroof roofskin and replace with std (or carbon if I can find one).
- less Transmission weight (gone 2wd instead of 4x4).
- Gun-Drilling rear driveshafts and gearbox internals (unsure if im going to do this tbh depends on a few quotes I get back)
- Bare metal (shot blasted shell) respray to remove old paint before new....Otherwise it'd have loads of extra paint....shocking how much extra weight paint adds to your car...I didnt think about it before.
- Lightweight steering wheel.
- Attacking any area possible with holesaw.
- Ally alternator Bracket.
Probably more but can't remember atm...
I reckon If I take the plunge and go for C/K doors, bumpers, bonnet & tailgate I'll not be far off my 1 ton target
Thanks for the info matey
Dan