Hope someone has some advice on this please, just picked the car up from tuner and said it has a long start, possible fuel accumulator. Started ok got it home no probs just went out in it for a run started no problem stopped for a coffee then would start, just kept cranking after ten mins of me trying to start it it would sound like its trying but like the fuel pump wasnt working. Then after another 20 mins cranked it it started and I drove home, got outside the house and it started straight back up I feel its an electrical fault but any advice would be great thanks

 

I don’t know what is wrong but I’m certain you need a different tuner.

 

Have wrote loads on the "K and KE ".....system on this site....do remember continual cranking of the starter, and the engine not starting .....will cause the "5th injector" "Timer" to cut in....and shut down any neat Fuel from getting in the manifold.... will take 15mins to reset.. this is the safety feature to stop an explosion taking place..... there very very good starters normal...as 4 sparks at plugs....5th injector spraying neat Fuel in manifold...instant start.. Peter..

 

The chap who did the set up thinks it either the non return valve on the pump or fuel accumulator causing me the problem

 

Needs to have the full pressure tested.....ie...best place to do is 5th injector pipe removed and connected to gauge able to read up to 100psi.....Fuel pump relay plug terminals 30 and 87 bridged....Pump will run .....pressure should show 85 / 90 psi....this pressure is maintaind by the pressure regulator....located looking from the front of engine ...right hand side..at the very back of engine..its a normal looking regulator...BUT has no vacumn pipe on it...nor should it ever have....needs full checking... is your Tuner well up on these RS system

 

Yeah they specialise in k jet. He said could be voltage related but more inclined that it either the accumulator or one way valve on the fuel pump, but car starts cold no probs. Makes sense now with the 15 minute timer. Other than that car is spot on boosts lovely

 

Just a thought hear im wondering if there is a intermitant fault on the operation of the 5th injector.....causing no start from cold sometimes...do check the 2 terminal plug on the Brown Timer...pull it off...look carefully to the Brown and White / tracer wire terminal...has.is it opened up over years ..or dirty..these plugs tend to fall apart with the position there in right at the back of engine...its the Brown & White only you need to look at......this is in fact the "negative" for the 5th injector....the valve on the Fuel Pump only keeps some pressure in the Fuel line from pressure regulator to pump after engine turned off. Peter

 

Bit of an update, went out in it for a coffee today. So bout 20 mins in costa after a 20 min drive. Got in car wide open throttle cranked no start, then I took filter off metering head and pushed on paddle didn't make a difference crank no start disconnected the cold start injector crank no start left car 45 mins then it was trying to start but immediately cut out like just burning residual fuel. But not running left another 20 mins crank no start battery got low put jump pack on it fired straight up drove it home
any ideas would be great thanks

 

Also checked for spark and I have spark so defo fuel related

 

OK.....Has the fuel pressure been checked...ie with engine off...relay bridged...guess you have.....ide like you to check when the engine Hot.....unplug the Fifth injector use Test lamp or meter on each pin of plug..crank engine to ensure no voltage there...eliminate Timer in case its not cutting out as it should...this would Flood the engine of Fuel...hence not start.

 

Did the fuel pump work?

Hot start problems are usually caused by a - how do you call it in english? vapor lock? The reasons are either old and worn injectors or a not working one-way-valve on top of the fuel pump.

When you turn off the car and the engine is hot it will heat up the fuel in the fuel lines close to the engine/cylinder head. The pressure inside the fuel system will rise. As long as your fuel system is in good condition, nothing will happen. The fuel has nowhere to go/to expand and the additional pressure will prevent the building od "steam bubbles".
But: with worn (and leaking) injectors or a not working one-way-valve the fuel can expand. Fuel will leak into the cylinder or will be pushed back into the fuel tank. The steam bubbles are - like any other gas - compressible. And because the K-Jetronic injectors are pressure operated these won't open when all the pressure from the fuel pump gets lost on it's way because of compressible gas in the fuel line(s).

Ford doesn't list the valve on top of the engine. But Bosch does. Maybe not for the Ford cars but you can use any other valve (Audi, VW, Porsche, Lamborghini, Ferrari etc.) as long as it's the same connector type. And I'd always recommend to use new injectors after ~100k miles. Don't buy these at Ford. Bosch is the only manufacturer of the K-Jetronic injectors, you might get a good deal at some aftermarket dealers.

 

Right guys I've changed the fuel accumulator for a new one, and also the none return valve on the pump starts ok, been out in it tonight when I stopped was cranking and starting, left the car for 20 mins then I was back to a crank no start, put a jump pack on it and it fired straight up, im now thinking its the battery I have got a drop tester for the battery but I know there not accurate will tell you if the battery's weak I've got 13.8v going into the battery when the car is running. Also when im cranking im getting a spark. If I have got a weak battery would this cause a crank but no start situation on one of these. Thanks

 

Well yes the engine should be turning over properly.....sounds if yours is not turning over fast enough...as your jump pack it did start....also the 13.8 you have should also be at the Fuel Pump terminals also with engine running......

 

Thanks just done a drop test on battery showing weak, and it pulled the battery down to 9volts so fingers crossed this cures it strange one though as it turns over normal, just cant be any guts in it

 

With a starter struggling to turn the engine it also might not start. But This is something you should HEAR? Is it turning much quicker with a starter pack?

In case your starter really is slow, check the mass connection between battery and starter. Wires - even the thicker ones - can corrode or break on cars as old as yours. And think about a new starter. A more modern one usually works better, even with a weaker battery.

And check the connector on top of the distributor. Had a problem with mine in my XR2 over twenty years ago. The connector was broken inside and the contacts weren't held in place anymore.

 

I've put a new ford connect starter on it last year, but its sounds ok cranking, but did crank a lot faster once the starter pack went on it and fired it up
I did think about that connector on top of the distributor but it is sparking

 

Update put a new battery on it today started great as it does, took it for a drive turned it off then left it an hour started it turned it off then went back to crank no start, tried it a couple of times in the space of 10 mins then it started so feel im getting somewhere with it but its still not cured

 

Right the windows have been slow since I've had it back from tuners, anyway as above new battery fitted today sat out in it in the dark and the battery light is coming on dim if I turn the heater on it brightens up or if I run the windows seems like its not putting the amps out, would this cause my starting problem 😳 thanks

 

Put new alternator on car still getting a dim battery light on car with alternator just running car is at 14v at battery with blower running goes down to 13.7 does anyone have any ideas please