This may open a can of worms so here goes.... What's everyone's different opinions on building a 4wd YB to say 550-600 hp I dont want to discuss gearbox/ diffs , just looking at injectors turbos cams headwork etc I know a lot is dependant on tuners etc but I would like to know what everyone is running and what drive ability is like

Thanks

 

I had a less than ideal spec years ago, rs500 t4, standard head with a pair of bd14 cams, it ran 2.2 bar of boost for 472 hp but the turbo surge was really bad, boost had to be capped to below 1.5 bar below 5600 rpm to stop the surge which killed the torque it only made 350 lbft 🤣😂

i presume my head needed work to flow the air at lower rpms or different camshafts

 

Descent 200 block to start,pistons and rods 14 and 16 cam ,set of 750cc injectors and then the turbo of your choice,big factor is have the rotating parts balanced by someone who knows what they are doing,obviously new bearings oil pump gaskets etc,it’s no real secret to get that sort of power reliable these days especially with the modern ecu,s .Was making that power 20 plus years ago with not so much choice regards parts and tuning

 

Who is your choice for balancing mate?

 

tbh I haven’t used one in a while but used to use an old boy in his late 60s who was very very good,but he’s not doing it anymore ,so later this year will be looking for someone in the midlands area or where ever .someone who knows what they are doing

 

Last time I had a motor all balanced up I used
Halesowen Engines Ltd
They do no there stuff

And it's funny talking about cam shafts
When I spoke to Stu at MSD and told him my spec
With 2 BD14 Cams he told me to pull the exhaust cam out and stick a standard can in it's place .
And iv been told that before by a top engine builder . I'm planning on 500bhp and in booked in at MSD on the 1st May but it doesn't look like it will be happening now

 

Wasnt it a 16 and a 14 I sold you mate?

 

Don’t forget to long stud the block either

 

Everyone has a different way of doing things lol pick a tuner and do as they say if there mapping it. Like above it says 750cc injectors I had 1000,s at 500bhp and a custom inlet cam with standard exhaust. Gt3076 turbo 200 block long studded small turbo escort inlet and throttle body and an autronic ecu set up

 

Hi mate long time no speak . they was both BD14 cams mate

 

Ah yes mate was a good while back now lol 👍

 

The best thing these days is the new ecu,s have all the safety features in so you can set things like afr ignition timing boost etc so if it peaks to the setting you’ve put in it won’t let the engine go past it,and also with boost per gear at least you can set a rwd up so it’s not blowing the tyres off in the first 3 gears,but that also has a lot to do with how hard you bring the boost in aswell
wish these features were available years ago

 

Im at 600 in my Escos

Oppliger ductile Wet liner low mileage 200 block, 10 studded
OE st/st crank, Arrow long rods Cp pistons 8:1
4x4 Roper Head, MAD spec cams, Quaife pulleys
EFR 7670 with billet comp wheel - internal gated, MAD tubular manifold zircotec coated
MIS inlet - 4 ID1000 inj
Honda K20 coils, Autronic SM4, Autodynamix loom
WRC headgasket
WRC breather
Big wing sump.
Fully balanced etc etc

Built by Steve Milton
Mapped by MAD

 

Pick your desired power level - then choose correct turbo build it from there, also Mapper is big decision on spec

 

Mine is being built by Mark Shead seen similar spec engines making high 600’s, sure Dave Pritchard is running 755hp on similar spec engine, I’m starting off with less hp maybe around 450/500 but safe in the knowledge I can easily make more if I wanted

200 block
ductile liners
CP short pistons
Carillo long rods +8mm
standard grind crank
cnc ported head and trumpets
marks own long studs
wrc head gasket and cometic gaskets
big wing sump
custom cams
piper double springs
arp main studs

and modern ecu ect, obviously loads of different ways to skin a cat. I’ve read if guys running standard rods at 600 but I’m too parra for that

 

My engine is pretty much the same other than solid lifters

 

Dave's on an arrow crank i think.

 

i did think on that route but no need really for me as mine is used for road only, makes its power before the set rev limit 6.8k

the sequential box also makes a big difference how it drives, the box was personal preference haha

 

Sequential box’s are awesome my mate has an elite one in his saff. Bit harsh for road use plus big money. I sold my cts big tooth and have a tremec. I’ll not break that I wouldn’t want to pay out for a sequential and break it. Mates elite has been back for repair twice. I took the solid lifter route as mark advised it as I was going to use the 9180 but probably use the turbo down now

 

Yeah i love it, can be a bitch in the odd times I've been caught in traffic but it gives the car more character - again and its a personal touch along with the MIS inlet, mines been perfect and i done 1500mile last year incl mapping sessions. Mark's advice is always for a reason and i guess probably correct with the 9180 with its power level capability but for what i wanted etc i couldn't be happier, still need to go back to Mark at some point for a map check/tweak as I've now the new 7670 billet comp wheel fitted so possibly a bit more to come from it

 

fair play sounds a right weapon bet it’s proper fast on the road

 

My engine made over 700 on the rollers but I will be using a smaller turbo.

stoker 2.2 linered
roper head
harvey cpec cams but will swap to MAD probably suited for final power target 530 / 630
arrow crank
cant remember rods and pistons
big wing sump
wrc breather
10 studs
mad down pipe and twin scroll exhaust - zircotec
currently on hart inlet -zircotec
7064 for 500bbp / 7670 for 600
coil on plug
vipec ecu
cam trigger

 

How much head work is required? I'm currently regretting not getting some whilst I had the valves re-cut and new guides fitted.

Spec is :
6 studded 200 block,
WRC oil squirters,
Wiesco forged pistons,
Farndon std length conrods,
Balanced bottom end
std 2wd head, new valves etc
2wd exhaust manifold
4wd inlet manifold (thinking im going to need a 14mm spacer)
EFR 7064, T4 0.92
Link G4 Xtreme
1000cc EV14's
70mm DBW Throttle
COP
100m thick large tank IC (Airtec)

I think the exhaust manifold, plenum and headwork are my limits of hitting 550 (maybe even 500) other than that the spec is kinda there I think - oh might need cams now too. IIRC there was a pretty much standard escos with 490bhp? (just supporting parts like injectors)

 

A bog standard engine can just about do 500 bhp on an efr like yours (but you prob need the right spec twin scroll manifold and diameter down pipe)...mine made 469 bhp and could have done more but had high intake temps due to poor intercooler...I now have a spec r on the new engine. My engine had 1000cc injectors and vipec

 

Solid lifters and mechanical profile cams is one of the best modifications you can make to the YB engine.
I do similar modifications to the Vauxhall engines.

Steve

 

Yeah unfortunately a manifold will have to wait, a spec r cooler was always the long term plan - but the AirTec one came up for £100 2nd hand un-used and is a nice upgrade from the 50mm pace one that I had before

honestly 470bhp will be plenty if that’s what it makes anyway, it had a t3 running about 12psi previously lol

 

I looked into this before and was told solid lifters on a turbo engine wasn’t really worth it, which cams do you use?

 

I think some of you lot have too much money lol,you over complicate what’s needed for the power required also in my experience a car with 450hp sometimes drives better than one with 600hp YBT obviously,because people put too bigger turbo on and it’s all or nothing,if it’s a road car you gotta be able to use it ,just my opinion

 

Steve,

We did speak about them but again for the miles it will do and being road only im happy with Good INA hydro on mine

 

its very easy done mate and hold my hands up as ive gone down the silly route before, i have another project which was originally designed/fabricated for YB power but wont be getting now K20 instead, the cost in building a big bhp YB is ridiculous

i had an aim with my Escort and where it is, it will stay, it drives great and puts it down perfect at the level its at and engine was built around turbo choice, more importantly was reliability so its maybe spec’d a bit high but only aids it reliable.

 

I’m building a similar car with a more modern up date set up. To a point to a car I’ve been in. It was 650/700 bhp and absolutely savage fastest thing I’ve ever been in or on by a long way. The owner said that spec was the best the car ever was and I also went in it at lesser specs so to me no way on earth a 450-500bhp one is better. But everyone is different so we all have a different idea of what’s to much or a waste of money

 

These are very expensive and unless your totally minted it takes years to gather parts to build them intact it takes so long by the time you get thier you question if it's still what you want to do then you think well I've gone to far now to turn back lol

 

your not getting my point, yes the 650/700 hp would be fast but what I’m saying is if you can’t use the power it’s a waste of time ,any car when it’s producing boost will be fast but as I said if it’s a road car driving in traffic country lanes etc ,unless you’ve spent a shit load on suspension brakes etc a properly setup 450/500 will drive so much nicer and round say twisty a roads you won’t see massive difference
if you ever go on track 270hp n/a escort will keep up and pass a 450 hp cosworth no problem because the powers there all the time ,on the starlight’s then no chance if the cosworth gets good exit speed
like I said just my opinion

 

yes pal k20 good shout did a swap over Xmas brilliant engines and I no a few people beating on them for 2 years now with 550/600hp stock engine unopened ,and if it does throw a rod or whatever ,£1000 for a used k20 bolt your bits on and your back on the road,ohh and 8500 rpm stock,winner winner

 

Need and want are two totally different things. No one needs 600hp my 100hp Smart car gets me to work as quick as a 600hp YB. The answer is I want a 600hp YB lol.

Mark

 

Exactly this 😂

 

Never said it was clever or cheap😂

 

it’s neither lol but once hooked it is what it is

 

I hear that statement time and time again, it is so wrong, most 'experts' say that because they do not or cannot grid and fit the shims (lash caps if you are American) or they have hydraulic cams in stock and want to sell those.
One of the best modifications you can do to the YB especially if high power and more boost.
Costs more money, extra labour to sort the shims, solid lifters, shims, but the cams are similar money.

Steve

 

All upgrades for ybt ain’t cheap these days that’s the problem 😩