Before I start I need to say that before this car is driven anywhere it is going for a setup at Power Engineering - I am just after advice to get the car to run so I know the basics are all OK before it goes there.

I MFI Turbo -> EFI Turbo converted my car last year and it's sat for a year since. I had it running last year it would start and idle perfectly but it would not rev, it bogged down and wanted to cut out straight away and the fuel pump wouldn't prime so I've just bought a new ECU. (Before swapping the ECU everything was tried to get the pump to prime checked and checked then checked some more and no joy. Then plugged in a zetec ECU, turned the ignition on and got prime. So I diagnosed the ECU as bad)

Yesterday I put the ECU on it and also set the CO pot to 1500 ohms using my multimeter which I believe is roughly the factory setting, put some fresh fuel in and tried to start the car with a set of jump leads on. It sounded like it wanted to go but wouldn't, a couple of times it kind of started but as soon as I touched the throttle it died again.

I suspect that the fuel pressure is way out so can someone explain to me how to set the fuel pressure to the standard setting? I have a fuel pressure guage which I am going to fit to know what the pressure is at and I know where the screw is. I'm guessing I can set the pressure without the car running as the pump primes on ignition?

Also read something about taking a hose off somewhere or other when sodding about with it?

Just want it to start and run so I can get it upto temp then it will be straight off to Powers before it turns a wheel. Just don't want it to get there as a complete non runner, if there's anything daft I want to sort it first.

 

Have you checked the basics, is there a spark, fuel at injectors, compression, has your ECU got the right chip for the injectors your using?
Don't think you can set the fuel pressure accurately without it running as there is no proper flow, better to fit an untouched FPR.

 

It's on the standard injectors mate no chip, OFAB.

Compression test was done after it was converted and all ok and it had fuel and spark then, I'll run through the basic checks again though as you say cheers.

As for the FPR - I wouldn't think there is any such thing as an untouched one given the age of the things lol? What do people do when they fit an uprated job they must have no idea what that's set to initially and have to adjust it tiny bits at a time until it at least starts so they can then set it on the gauge? Or is there a way to test and set them off the car or something?

 

It could be the fuel pump/wiring is kapoot. And Is there definitely enough fuel in it to be sucked up by the pump? It could be really low

Or a dodgy relay/bad connection somewhere

 

Yea mate all the pump side wiring is new 30 amp I remember testing the voltage at the back when I did it and it was good.

I stuck a fiver in the tank before trying it again this year so should have enough good fuel to start - its on the MFI pump so you can hear when it's pumping air usually.

I know the FPR has been adjusted as when I got the running gear it had beiges and a chip and I've got the standard blues and no chip now, could also see that the FPR had been adjusted looking at it.

 

Sounds silly but u Sure the timings ok? And the Battery/alternator are well..

Id spin it over an see if its defo getting fuel at the plugs then look at the fuel pressure again..

Have you had the block tapped for a crank sensor or u using a trigger wheel setup?

Might pay to put a vid up..

 

Block was drilled to use the stAndard TPS mate.

Ill run through the most basic checks and get a video cheers mate I'm almost certain it is the fuel pressure though

 

No worries, as we all know sometimes the very basic's evade us when were looking for a clue sorry i cant be of more use and sound less patronising, wish i were there looking at it

And you have had it running in the past...?

If yes then Hmmmm well if you've gone EFI flywheel then hopefully the CPS is aligned/spaced right so timing/signal should be all good..
as long as the sensor is..

id pull the feed off the pump be sure its getting a good strong flow up and not just spitting returning, might pay to check fuel filters past the fuel filter an all..then good strong spark next..are the injectors know good/clean?

Does sound like its fuel related, id be tempted to adjust the fuel pressure abit see if the cranking tone changes, should crank over nice and quick if fuels flowing, and or also check the TPS (Throttle position sensor's) all good an all.. then its back to checking every strand of wire and sensor followed by re-doing your level one motor vehicle maintanance NVQ again, check fuse first......

Fkin EFI


Good luck fella

 

Do you have the little Schrader valve at the end of the fuel rail that you can check to see if there is fuel behind the injectors ready to go and it is at pressure?

Depending on results check power to pump, while diagnosing mine I made a special lead to take power from lighter to fuel pump! - it worked for me as I could then hear the pump wering away and test that all else was ok then fixed firing for pump!

Also see if you can work out a way of testing the square wave output of the CPS (not easy with out a scope!)

good luck

 

Ah ok well thats a couple of things ticked off, but yes always worth checking the basics first.
You should be able to get one, there's an anti tamper seal so you'll soon see if it's been touched or not.
But as for fitting an aftermarket one and setting it I honestly have no idea, there must be a procedure?! lol

 

Cheers for the help all I am going to get another look at it later.

The pump is definitely running I can hear it and the complete fuel pump loom with the relay is place and working. To be sure I will get under the back again today and get the meter on the wires - what voltage should I see at the pump?

 

Battery or alternator voltage (if it was running).

 

If it is the standard fiesta injector rail can you get fuel at the valve?

 

I went back to the car today and managed to get it started after a little while. It eventually started and sat idling with the revs fairly high but it was idling not trying to cut out at all.

If I tried to rev it it instantly bogged down and wanted to cut out but at least it runs, sounded ok oil pressure was 60 odd, started to come upto a bit of water temperature all seemed ok to me

I'm wondering if I should leave it alone and take it to powers like this or if I should try go get it to a state where it runs ok.

Nothing I did to the fuel pressure whilst it was running seemed to bother it, I also unplugged the MAP sensor and it continued to idle.

What would be the next line of investigation? Check MAP sensor wiring? Or stop sodding about before I damage something?

I got some videos I'll post them when I get home thanks again if all the help

 

Could be a dead MAP sensor, opening the throttle will cause MAP to rise and as a result fuelling, if this doesnt happen the car will want to stall as it will be lean.
Unplugging it at idle and making no difference suggests a MAP sensor problem for sure.

 

Get me - I'm learning lol

OK next up I'll verify all the loom is as it should be on the RS Bible diagram.

Just to confirm - white plug is CO pot black is MAP?

Is there any way to test the map sensor itself with the multimeter? I'm not going to be able to find another OFAB MAP to try on it easily and I'd rather not go buy another one if I can avoid it.

Thanks again dude

 

If your struggling for a map sensor for test purposes mannion I'll send you mine to try if you cover postage mate.

Grant

 

Awesome Grant cheers mate really appreciate it. Let me check all the wiring first to rule that out if it all looks well I'll suspect the sensor itself and take you up on that.

Really appreciate it mate cheers