TDCI Engines....Any good?
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Not as nippy as the 130 but ok. Should see 50mpg.
The engines are not the most refined and do diesel well lol. Issues are fuel pump breaking up internally (ensure you renew fuel filter regularly and use Genuine items or Bosch(always fill the new filter or prime before statring)), fuel injectors are a comon fail at all milages. Bottom pully wear, aux tensioner wear, boost hoses split, egr valves gunk up as do the inlet manifolds. Wheel bearings can go frequently on both front and rear - I have a spare of each in the garage and lastly the DMF and clutches are renown to let go between 80k - 120k.
Good car tho and cheap as chips if you get a good one - I have had 2. The first one I sold on with 230k miles on it. My current one is on 110k and has had all except injectors and fuel pump issues.
The engines are not the most refined and do diesel well lol. Issues are fuel pump breaking up internally (ensure you renew fuel filter regularly and use Genuine items or Bosch(always fill the new filter or prime before statring)), fuel injectors are a comon fail at all milages. Bottom pully wear, aux tensioner wear, boost hoses split, egr valves gunk up as do the inlet manifolds. Wheel bearings can go frequently on both front and rear - I have a spare of each in the garage and lastly the DMF and clutches are renown to let go between 80k - 120k.
Good car tho and cheap as chips if you get a good one - I have had 2. The first one I sold on with 230k miles on it. My current one is on 110k and has had all except injectors and fuel pump issues.
You know your stuff mate.....Thank you!!
How much does it cost to fill a tank up and with moderate driving style on 50% A roads and 50% Town how many miles should I see to a full tank?
Just looked on Google and a few places are doing Re-maps for the 115 and 130. The 115 after a Re-map goes to 145bhp.
I noticed whilst looking at the engine the Aux belt running down on the left side of the engine, this looks like a sod to change?! Also there was another belt on the right of the engine, didn't look that big and was towards the top/middle of the engine. I could see this belt was slightly perished.....What does this belt do?
How much does it cost to fill a tank up and with moderate driving style on 50% A roads and 50% Town how many miles should I see to a full tank?
Just looked on Google and a few places are doing Re-maps for the 115 and 130. The 115 after a Re-map goes to 145bhp.
I noticed whilst looking at the engine the Aux belt running down on the left side of the engine, this looks like a sod to change?! Also there was another belt on the right of the engine, didn't look that big and was towards the top/middle of the engine. I could see this belt was slightly perished.....What does this belt do?
Stu' on here chipped my friends TDCi 115 and it used to regularly get 700+ miles to a tank, was much smoother and was a lot more powerful afterwards. Used to see 145 on the clocks without too much trouble and was smooth for a diesel.
Benni
Benni
You have to remove the tensioner brackett to change aux belt, a bit tricky.
The belt on the other side, is powersteering and waterpump belt. Waterpump is driven from the end shaft of powersteering pump
The belt on the other side, is powersteering and waterpump belt. Waterpump is driven from the end shaft of powersteering pump
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Bloody 'ell Benni that is impressive.
grcossie..... Thank you.....If I buy this car best to get that belt changed if it drives the waterpump!
Csm.... Dont like Passat's.
I test drove a Vectra C CDTI 150. What a crap car to drive. Handling was terrible, dash was horrid with these stupid indicator stalks, was not impressed. There again I am a bit old skool and liked the Cav GSI, great cars!
grcossie..... Thank you.....If I buy this car best to get that belt changed if it drives the waterpump!
Csm.... Dont like Passat's.
I test drove a Vectra C CDTI 150. What a crap car to drive. Handling was terrible, dash was horrid with these stupid indicator stalks, was not impressed. There again I am a bit old skool and liked the Cav GSI, great cars!
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In all fairness the power steering / water pump belts never look good as its a small belt around tight pullies they crack badly on the inside. I have never c hanged one 
I use mine round the doors and work is 11 miles each way. I have a 130 TDCI and so don't drive it like a porche, can't see the point. On the computer I have got 51.6 mpg and if I put Ł70 in when the light comes on I get a range of over 700 miles come up
They are what they are. All makes have their issues. Mondy's are cheap enough to buy and run. The main issues are injectors, fuel pump and DMF.
I use mine round the doors and work is 11 miles each way. I have a 130 TDCI and so don't drive it like a porche, can't see the point. On the computer I have got 51.6 mpg and if I put Ł70 in when the light comes on I get a range of over 700 miles come up
They are what they are. All makes have their issues. Mondy's are cheap enough to buy and run. The main issues are injectors, fuel pump and DMF.
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If it weren't for the pump and injector issues I'd have got one of these years ago as overall their a great car.
Great list of faults above but I'm confident the passat would have half those problems but you do pay twice as much for one.
Can't see these mondeos getting any cheaper but I've noticed the old td mondeos creeping up and mint ones fetching strong money.
They truely are bulletproof though,will do 500000 miles on original mechanicals,in fact wasn't there one on here that's covered 1,000,000 miles?
Great list of faults above but I'm confident the passat would have half those problems but you do pay twice as much for one.
Can't see these mondeos getting any cheaper but I've noticed the old td mondeos creeping up and mint ones fetching strong money.
They truely are bulletproof though,will do 500000 miles on original mechanicals,in fact wasn't there one on here that's covered 1,000,000 miles?
What is a DMF? The only thing I found on the test drive was a slight clunk coming from the passenger side, maybe a worn out bush? The car has full ford service history and only 1 prev' owner so I am hoping it is a good one as gave the bloke Ł100 deposit as he wants 2k for it and dont really carry that kind of cash on me!!
I will get it booked in for a new Aux belt & power steering/waterpump belt. Also may get it re-mapped as read they make the car that bit faster plus increase the MPG? Whilst reading about the re-map a few things about blanking off an EGR were popping up on Google, so may have to look into this?
I think I should be able to do a basic service.....As long as the oil filter is not in some stupidly hard place to get to the the Ren' Clio Williams! On Ebay there are K&N panel filters for the 115 TDCI, maybe an idea as they help the car get a bit more air in, well meant to?!
I will get it booked in for a new Aux belt & power steering/waterpump belt. Also may get it re-mapped as read they make the car that bit faster plus increase the MPG? Whilst reading about the re-map a few things about blanking off an EGR were popping up on Google, so may have to look into this?
I think I should be able to do a basic service.....As long as the oil filter is not in some stupidly hard place to get to the the Ren' Clio Williams! On Ebay there are K&N panel filters for the 115 TDCI, maybe an idea as they help the car get a bit more air in, well meant to?!
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To do fuel filter its easier access wise to remove the strut top brace. Its 3 13mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts and opens up the area to work.
DMF is the dual mass flywheel - they break up.
DO NOT BLANK THE EGR VALVE OFF. You will get the EML light on as it is electronically sensed being a euro4. If it was euro 3 then just mechanical and not an issue.
Be careful - you are spending 2k on a 05 Mondeo and ya going to throw money at it straight away with the bits you say are needed. I have not seen the car orits spec but for a 115 version etc I think ya paying top whack with that milage and ya willing to pay out as soon as you get it.
I would be asking the place ya getting it from to give it a full service inc belts and get that clunk sorted - might be a drive shaft of wishbone - you are willingly going to buy a car with a fault.
I have an 04 plate lx same miles and realistically I would be lucky to get 1k for it (not trying to sell it BTW mods).
DMF is the dual mass flywheel - they break up.
DO NOT BLANK THE EGR VALVE OFF. You will get the EML light on as it is electronically sensed being a euro4. If it was euro 3 then just mechanical and not an issue.
Be careful - you are spending 2k on a 05 Mondeo and ya going to throw money at it straight away with the bits you say are needed. I have not seen the car orits spec but for a 115 version etc I think ya paying top whack with that milage and ya willing to pay out as soon as you get it.
I would be asking the place ya getting it from to give it a full service inc belts and get that clunk sorted - might be a drive shaft of wishbone - you are willingly going to buy a car with a fault.
I have an 04 plate lx same miles and realistically I would be lucky to get 1k for it (not trying to sell it BTW mods).
To do fuel filter its easier access wise to remove the strut top brace. Its 3 13mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts and opens up the area to work.
DMF is the dual mass flywheel - they break up.
DO NOT BLANK THE EGR VALVE OFF. You will get the EML light on as it is electronically sensed being a euro4. If it was euro 3 then just mechanical and not an issue.
Be careful - you are spending 2k on a 05 Mondeo and ya going to throw money at it straight away with the bits you say are needed. I have not seen the car orits spec but for a 115 version etc I think ya paying top whack with that milage and ya willing to pay out as soon as you get it.
I would be asking the place ya getting it from to give it a full service inc belts and get that clunk sorted - might be a drive shaft of wishbone - you are willingly going to buy a car with a fault.
I have an 04 plate lx same miles and realistically I would be lucky to get 1k for it (not trying to sell it BTW mods).
DMF is the dual mass flywheel - they break up.
DO NOT BLANK THE EGR VALVE OFF. You will get the EML light on as it is electronically sensed being a euro4. If it was euro 3 then just mechanical and not an issue.
Be careful - you are spending 2k on a 05 Mondeo and ya going to throw money at it straight away with the bits you say are needed. I have not seen the car orits spec but for a 115 version etc I think ya paying top whack with that milage and ya willing to pay out as soon as you get it.
I would be asking the place ya getting it from to give it a full service inc belts and get that clunk sorted - might be a drive shaft of wishbone - you are willingly going to buy a car with a fault.
I have an 04 plate lx same miles and realistically I would be lucky to get 1k for it (not trying to sell it BTW mods).
PM on its way bud with link to car I am getting.
To do fuel filter its easier access wise to remove the strut top brace. Its 3 13mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts and opens up the area to work.
DMF is the dual mass flywheel - they break up.
DO NOT BLANK THE EGR VALVE OFF. You will get the EML light on as it is electronically sensed being a euro4. If it was euro 3 then just mechanical and not an issue.
Be careful - you are spending 2k on a 05 Mondeo and ya going to throw money at it straight away with the bits you say are needed. I have not seen the car orits spec but for a 115 version etc I think ya paying top whack with that milage and ya willing to pay out as soon as you get it.
I would be asking the place ya getting it from to give it a full service inc belts and get that clunk sorted - might be a drive shaft of wishbone - you are willingly going to buy a car with a fault.
I have an 04 plate lx same miles and realistically I would be lucky to get 1k for it (not trying to sell it BTW mods).
DMF is the dual mass flywheel - they break up.
DO NOT BLANK THE EGR VALVE OFF. You will get the EML light on as it is electronically sensed being a euro4. If it was euro 3 then just mechanical and not an issue.
Be careful - you are spending 2k on a 05 Mondeo and ya going to throw money at it straight away with the bits you say are needed. I have not seen the car orits spec but for a 115 version etc I think ya paying top whack with that milage and ya willing to pay out as soon as you get it.
I would be asking the place ya getting it from to give it a full service inc belts and get that clunk sorted - might be a drive shaft of wishbone - you are willingly going to buy a car with a fault.
I have an 04 plate lx same miles and realistically I would be lucky to get 1k for it (not trying to sell it BTW mods).
DMF can be change to a massive on, it`s kits on these on ebay, whit all you need
I have a 115 bhp mondi an it's been as good as gold. It's had boath rear wheel bearings in 3 years that's it. And a boost hose split the other day lol. On a full tank round town I get 450 to 500 miles to a tank. I payed 1900 for it 3 years ago on a 52 plate with 75k on clock now just over 100k an going strong.
Either that or just clean it out every few thousand miles.
All the main points have been covered - but I would say that Ł2k is top whack for a 2005 115.
They're great cars when they work well, just pray you don't suffer from injector issues as it can get very expensive, very quickly. You don't mention the mileage - but if it's over 80K then I'd want receipts for replacement injectors. If not, they could pop at any time (or be fine for thousands of miles, it does seem a bit random)
I'd be surprised if you saw 50mpg - the norm seems to be low to mid 40s with mixed driving, but it may be a good 'un and you may get more.
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Personally I don't see the point of a plate with an 8mm hole - just run as is and drive it hard frequently.
I aint knocking these Mondeo's - I actually really like em but ya need to know what you are buying
I have a 115 bhp mondi an it's been as good as gold. It's had boath rear wheel bearings in 3 years that's it. And a boost hose split the other day lol. On a full tank round town I get 450 to 500 miles to a tank. I payed 1900 for it 3 years ago on a 52 plate with 75k on clock now just over 100k an going strong.
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Just to add and not scare mongering:
Injectors - if ya take it to a Delphi place (not even Ford
) ya looking at Ł150 per pot minimum.
DMF and clutch and crank sensor - Ł300 if ya lucky
Pump - not sure
Injectors - if ya take it to a Delphi place (not even Ford
) ya looking at Ł150 per pot minimum.DMF and clutch and crank sensor - Ł300 if ya lucky
Pump - not sure
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So please explain how this is BLANKING if its got an 8mm hole? I advised not to blank completely and it was correct as it has issues.
Personally I don't see the point of a plate with an 8mm hole - just run as is and drive it hard frequently.
I aint knocking these Mondeo's - I actually really like em but ya need to know what you are buying
Personally I don't see the point of a plate with an 8mm hole - just run as is and drive it hard frequently.
I aint knocking these Mondeo's - I actually really like em but ya need to know what you are buying

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Not knocking you mate but its almost futile to put a plate in with a hole as you achieve nothing in reality.
I would deffo decat tho for 3-5 bhp and better response.
I just blanked my EGR (whitout drilling a hole)on my 09 Kuga 2tdci, and did a clean up. I get rid of the normal jerking you can feel on al this engines, when EGR open
Last edited by grcossie; Aug 4, 2012 at 10:14 PM.
)and bollocks to you`ve only changed a few pumps but many belts, UK cars must be made from different materials then

EGR blank offs, yes it can be done, dont drill holes in blank off plates its pointless.
the whole point of an EGR valve is to lower cylnder power
it does so by causing less oxygen content and less heat from the burn causing less power.
you can cheat this electronicaly, not going into a full winded write up but it centres arround 2 temp readings before and after EGR, get these right with/without EGR and the ECU is happy, easy done.
single mass conversions......... ideal for causing more stress on an un balanced crank, lovely
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There's a mk5 tdi golf in my street and it sounds like a 1970's Sherpa diesel when he tries to start it.
I say "tries" as you can count to 10 before it even attempts to fire/compress!!!
You car drill them, but the hole needs to be so large to not trigger the EML as to render the blanking plate useless. It would make more sense to blank it normally and clear the code every so often with a cheap code reader.
Either that or just clean it out every few thousand miles.
All the main points have been covered - but I would say that Ł2k is top whack for a 2005 115.
They're great cars when they work well, just pray you don't suffer from injector issues as it can get very expensive, very quickly. You don't mention the mileage - but if it's over 80K then I'd want receipts for replacement injectors. If not, they could pop at any time (or be fine for thousands of miles, it does seem a bit random)
Either that or just clean it out every few thousand miles.
All the main points have been covered - but I would say that Ł2k is top whack for a 2005 115.
They're great cars when they work well, just pray you don't suffer from injector issues as it can get very expensive, very quickly. You don't mention the mileage - but if it's over 80K then I'd want receipts for replacement injectors. If not, they could pop at any time (or be fine for thousands of miles, it does seem a bit random)






