well i have just built up my 4x4 to 2wd !! 2wd engine ,2wdecu,2wd wiring loom, all set to go and i have no spark when turning the car over have changed all these parts still same problem !! cps,ecu,chip,coil,dizzy,rotor,ign amp,loom,phase, relays, running out of ideas here i get a spark when turned to pos 2 and nothing when cranking !! fuel pump primes and have fuel pressure just no spark !! all 4 lugs are there on the pulley and checked power at coil and sensors and have changed the factory alarm relay box and have no aftermarket alarm on the car !! anyone ideas before i give up :P and timing is spot on too

 

You could have still used your ECU, when you say changed chip, you haven't put the chip from one ECU into the other have you?

Martin

 

l6 ecu with l6 chip for my set up have 2 chips for this set up m8 tryed both still the same

 

Check you do not have the CPS and Phase sensor connectors plugged into the wrong connectors on the loom.

Martin

 

checked that one too mate cps and phase have dif connectors

 

took the dash out now to check all the wires thinking crank pulley or ignition wire from the barrel ?

 

Have you tried bypassing the ign. switch, hot wire straight off the +ive terminal to coil tower?

 

how big is the gap between cps and crankshaft pulley lug should be 1mm to 2mm

 

I doubt it, your ECU is powering up and you have power at the coil etc (Although it's worth checking you have the correct amount of power there), I would doube check the fitment of the chip myself.

Also do you know the ECU is known to be working?

Martin

 

going to check out more today found a check list here and the ecu is ok have 3 here that are known to be working i will post the list here for anyone else that needs it
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)

Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.

Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.

If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.

The pump is ok to run continuously

 

Well I'd be checking nos. 10&11 first

 

well done some testing

4. 12.29v
5. 4.95v
6.1.48v
7.4.77v
8.0.10v

10. nothing in res and cranking

11. 641 in res nothing when cranking

12. 2.8
13. 2.8
14. 2.8
15. 2.8

16. 0.22
17. no spark
18. clicks

20. nothing
21. nothing

 

Do you still have the other ECU you can try as a test?

Martin

 

yes mate going out now to test with another ecu and the crank and phase sensor are gapped right m8

 

0.8mm -1mm
best set at 0.8 on the yb

 

could the immobilizer be causing me these problems??tryed another ecu still the same nothing from crank sensor put a new crank sensor on and still the same

 

you results for 10 and 11 don't make sense
when you say nothing for test 10. resistance 0 is actually continuity
open circuit would be infinity
test 11 is for the output signal and is a square wave and should be tested with your meter set to ac
you are saying you have a resistance value for test 11 which is correct for test 10. but then you say you have no restistance value at test 10. which is the same pins 3 and 4 as test 11
clarify these problems and tests first as they would give you the faults you are experiences
Can you post you results next to the test procedure as it will make it easy for us to help you

 

Ignore just re read post.

Martin

 

10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. i got nothing here
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. i got 0.53 v
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. i got nothing
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. i got nothing
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V i got 0.22v
17) IGNITION TEST no spark

everything else seems ok

 

with regards to tests 10 you either got open circuit ie infinite resistance or you got continuity I will assume that by you saying nothing this is infact infinite resistance
ie open circuit
You now need to check the wires from pin 3 and 4 5 and 23 are not broken by means of buzzing them out with your test meter on ohms
you also need to check that these are actually the right wires you have plugged in to the phase and crank
If your car was 4x4 why did you change the ecu and loom when fitting a 2wd engine
all you needed to do was fit the 4x4 pfo9 tps to your 2wd
better still would have been to fit the 4x4 plenum complete to the 2wd engine

 

will get checking some more 2moro i only put the 2wd lomm in cause i thought my 4x4 was fkd and had a few l6 ecu with the chips for my set up i have a 4x4 plenum on too thats opened up in the throats i just changed the wires round on the tps m8

 

you need to run a 2wd tps with a 2wd ecu
you need to run a 4x4 tps with a 4x4 ecu
looms wired to suit what you have used

 

UPDATE=
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. i got 635
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. i got 00.2 at 200 ac on meter
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. i got nothing
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. i got nothing

i buzzed out all the wires and they were fine !! but noticed when ecu is unplugged and ignition was on i could here sparking in the dizzy ??? is this normal ??

 

Shouldn't do, as a 'SPOUT' can't be sent, unless you have wiring problem etc.

Martin

 

I have a similar problem. After going through all the steps above I get at step
16): 0.22 / 0v between pin 24 and 25 - when IGNITION ON.
17) NO spark
Everything else on the list above is OK; every wire is buzzed out and OK, every sensor and injector ohmed.
I do run a MSD6A system, but this should not affect the original setup. I cannot get a signal to the coil / ecu -> ignition module -> coil. Seems like my ECU is dead? TDC sensor OK, PHASE sensor OK.

I have tried 3 different ign modules, so have ruled it out..

Strange as the ECU worked perfectly before on my old setup. I have swapped chip to a brand new one.. The car has been sitting a while, but earlier when sitting for a while it has been likewise- and after a while of cranking it starts firing (suddenly it wants to work again) and working. Seems like my ECU is a bit fooked? L6 ECU with 4x4 wiring. Switched TPS wires so OK (worked before).

New setup contains of new turbo, injectors, inlet, grp a coil, motorsport leads etc. Sensors are brand new and are OK (tested).

Help?

 

Well, just tested with another really mint L6 ECU - still no spark, tested combinations with all three ign modules.
Will try to remove the MSD and see if there's a problem there.

I tried using the magnetic pickup input on the MSD wired to the cps / tdc sensor, I disconnected the "-" from ign module. Now I got spark, so the CPS seem to work aswell as the MSD. However the MSD mag pickup may need a lower voltage to trigger than the ECU so will try to check cps voltage one more time.

 

Phase sensor gap was not set correctly, car runs perfect now