Right then, I picked up a project Fiesta today, knowing it'll need a bit of work, to make a bit of cash.

Test driving it, the clutch slips pretty badly. Now i've rung a couple of garages and had quotes in the region of £250-£300 for a new one, fitted, which seems pretty steep considering what i've just read on this forum about the work involved.

Now i'm pretty handy with spanners, and wouldn't mind giving it a go myself if it'll save cash. Can anyone give me an idea of the parts i'll need, time it'll take, work involved, and tools i'll need? I'll be picking up a haynes manual for it shortly, too.

Cheers, Paul.

 

Right, you'll need all your normal tools + ball joint seperator, brake/clutch bleeding kit, clutch alignment tool, T55 torx bit, 3L gbox oil, and brake fluid.

Its not that harder job if you are quite mechanical, and theres plenty of guides out there. Basics, jack car up as high as poss, put on axle stands. remove NSF wheel, seperate the lower arm from the hub, and seperate NS inner CV. remove dogbone mount. remove gearchange linkage. Support engine with jack. remove battery tray, disconnect slave cyl pipe from slave, and remove gbox mount bolts (x3). Undo all gearbox to engine bolts. lower engine. slide gearbox off engine. renew clutch. Refit. in reverse order.

Im sure ive missed some bits in there, but you get the idea. i can do it on my own on a driveway in about an hour and 3/4.

Matt

 

Cheers mate!

Just won a haynes manual for it on ebay, and got a quote of £75 for the parts needed from my local motor factors.

I've got all those tools apart from the clutch alignment tool, but there's a machine mart opposite the motor factors. I assume this'll do the job?: Linky

Cheers for the input, i'll no doubt have more questions along the way.

 

if it were me i'd release the engine lift it and swap clutches over
i love working on ohv lumps cos they are so small and you can pull them out in under an hour, i wouldnt bother going underneith when its so easy from above
remove all hoses and wired and then th ebolts and lift it up, if you dont have a crane more hassle i know, we used to lift them out 1 on each turret

i also have fookin gearboxes and all the other fragile crap that will go tits up while you are doing it like cv's ball joints and bushes

 

Yeh that should do fine, although its different to the one i have.

As stated by "1.9 xr2 on 40's" there are a couple of different ways to do the job. On these and pumas i always go from underneath because of the way the gearbox mount detaches from the box. I.e. when you unbolt it from the gbox, it still hangs above the box and is fiddley to get around without removing the whole mount from the inner wing (can be a pain to do sometimes) whereas by working underneath, just undo the 3 bolts and lower it down,

Matt

 

just remember and "break" the hub nuts before you jack it up and take off the wheels if your removing the gearbox

 

Quality, cheers guys.

 

Just reading this thread as the clutch on my 1.25 has just started to slip
Would I be right that I only need to "brake" the near side hub nut before I jack the car up? Can I leave the off side wheel and driveshaft on the car?

 

Yeahmate, finished this job now.

You only need to take the nearside hub nut off, pull the driveshaft out, take the gearbox mount, gear selector shaft, bottom gearbox steady, engine to gearbox bolts, and starter motor. Drop the gearbox on a trolley jack, and pull it off.