As title really. How big is big enough for box and diff coolers on a track car?

Obv ground clearance and overall room is an issue, but whats the accepted ok size?

And is filtering oil never useful? I know a lot of autoboxes have filters, but not manuals.

Moroso do these, which are a combo filter and heatsink/cooler, but god knows if they any good...



http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=24001

 

Serious coolers for engine oil start at 19 row right?

Other than that - I have no idea.

 

Very application specific, what temps are you getting currently?

Might not benefit from one AT ALL, or might need a huge one.

Generally they are pretty small though, as its only friction raising the temperature its not like in an engine where its getting heated by combustion too.

 

I had been told before that the Skyline boxes benefit from having a cooler installed, i have no idea on what size though.

Filtering the oil wouldn't be a bad idea though, a guy I know had a evo 7 that a transfer box fault, in turn it wiped out everything thats plumbed into it inc the box and it was Ł7500 from Mitsubishi to repair it

 

you'll need a pump too

 

You can use all the bits from a Nissan 200SX from a scrappy - job jobbed .

 

+1

 

Considering a small Setrab oil cooler costs 50odd quid anyhow, I dont really think the 200SX setup is that great, esp as it will need modding, they all old and fucked by now, with the pumps barely working etc.

Esp as I gotta buy a big old engine oil cooler, I may as well get it all at once.

 

50 quid for everything including the pump and lines?

If so, fair play, although Id doubt the quality of it at that price TBH

 

Who mentioned pump and lines? I said a Setrab oil cooler.

 

But you need a pump and lines as well, so how much will it be in total?

 

In the end I decided to do the gaybird option and do this. I was gonna splash out and do something decent, then I reminded myself im a gyppo

Paid 60quid for 2 pumps and 2 coolers.

Id've paid for that for 1 new cooler alone.

Not sure how good/big they are tho, never seen one and not arrived yet.

Was gonna buy the engine oil cooler setup new tho, but the pikey in me wants to get the one off the 4x4 down the local scrappy- it was pretty big!

 

It works very well and if you fit the thermo-switch from the 200 as well, it only switches everything on when required, that way the oil is always at the correct temp, rather than running it too cold (if you run the pump all the time) . When I bought one for the Sapphire, the cooler even had an aero set-up to ensure the required air flow was achieved with the cooler mounted under the car. It really is an amazing piece of kit for the price you can get them for .

 

I've been advised to never buy second hand oil colling equipment unless you're 110% sure of its history or are going to get it xrayed for comtaminents. not sure if this applies to diff/box coolers as well as engine oil coolers though.

 

anyone have pictures of the 200 thermo switch?

are you cooling a 2wd or 4wd gearbox?

 

Mike- Going by most SX owners comments the SX's ones rarely if ever turn on in the entire life of the car, even with hard use, which surely says to me they set too high?
And how do they fit?

Markb- Surely thats EXACTLY the same as using second hand any part for your engine though,

Mark1- Im using it on a 2wd rear diff and 2wd box

 

if you are controlling the temperature of gearbox (ie controlling when the pump turns on) you cant really have a too large a cooler!

 

From memeory, it is switched to only come on in extreme temps (135°C springs to mind, but it is a LONG time ago, so just phone any Niassan dealer and they will be able to confirm this), which is why very few cars get them hot enough to operate, hence why they all should be in good working order.

To fit, on the back plate you will need to weld in three bosses, two at the bottom and one at the top. The two on the bottom are for the temp switch and the oil feed to the pump. Obviously the one on the top is for the return after the cooler.

You could run it manually with a switch and instead of the thermo switch being mounted at the bottom, put a thermocouple for a gauge. The only problem with this is that you don't want to have to keep checking this if you are concentrating on driving, so I would recommend plumbing it up to auto control.

In the end, I never fitted mine, due to the fact that I ran an ATB, there is no shearing forces that you get with a plated diff, so I never saw temps above 110°C in the most extreme conditions.

 

yep, although i'd imagine it's much much easier to clean most parts (block, camsas opposed to an oil cooler, simply because of the design.
the context it was mentioned to me was if someone had blown their engine, and all kinds of shit/metal etc had got pumped into the oil cooler where it will then sit until the cooler finds its way onto another engine and all the crap is pumped back out again round the engine with nasty results.

as mentioned earlier though, may well be not so critical when it comes to transmission components as i guess the tolerances are a bit bigger than you'd find in big ends etc (?)

 

Mike- so it was utterly pointless then Why weld bosses on for inlet and return? Most just use the drain and fill plugs?
Not sure what im gonna use yet to activate it.

Mark- Agree. Tho I found a big old oil cooler from some Jap 4x4 from the scrappy I might use for the engine too, but I like risks

 

Reyland kit on our Skyline uses a surface-mounted switch, which you can see in these pics

 

With a Quaife ATB, yes, completely pointless. Never saw what temps a plated diff got up to, so can't comment on one of those.

I was going to do it this way, so I had an easy way of topping it up, as it will take a lot more oil than normal, as you would have to bridge the thermo switch once up to the fill level, so that the pump sucks out and fills the cooler / lines and then re-top to the fill level. If you didn't do this, then the second the pump switched on, the the diff oil level would drop down by what-ever capacity of oil it takes to fill the cooler, pump and hosing. Given that the diff doesn't take much oil, it would run too low .

Makes sense to me .

 

you forgot the

but at least it's an easy way to describe what to do

but how do you know when the diff/box is full enough to have filled the cooler and pipework and pump as well as the necessary ammount needed for the diff/box wihtout overfilling it?

 

Just went and about a mint (barely a fin bent) 10inch tall by 9inch wide (core and end tanks, not brackets) oil cooler for the princely sum of 7 pounds and five pence from the scrappy

Im sure a cooler that size is about 150 notes normally, so thats not bad.

Your better tell Martin Hadland he hasnt got a clue what he's doing then and you and Mike know better eh?

 

I just described how in my post you nuggart . As soon as the oil starts coming out of the return, you know that the system is full, and can unbridge the thermo-switch and re-top up the diff to the fill point (5mm below the level) . Did you read what I put? Perhaps you need one of these ?

 

i take it that's the one you've just bought?
good luck with it mate.. any luck it'll be fine!

 

you can always fill the second hand cooler with brake cleaner for a while to flush it out

 

Mark- Yup, just went down there with some spanners and raped a early 80's long wheelbase Shogun that was hidden down the back for ages with a properly big oil cooler He wanted 8 quid, but I only had 7pound 5p on me, so he took that

Nick- Yeah, was gonna clean it out with something along them lines, will do all the coolers best I can before fitting em.