Firstly, I know it's not a Ford, but is a lot of knowledge on here, hopefully covering old carb'd French shitbox's

Old 205 XS 1400, randomly backfires, could be once a mile, or not for 20 miles.
Had my toe down for a long time earlier, and it cut out.
When it cuts out or backfires, the rev counter stops working.
When power comes back, rev counter works.
Has had everything on spark side renewed, other than ignition amplifier - I'm sure it's an amplifier, coil is a module more than coil I'm familiar with.
I've adjusted the timing.

It seemed as if it was running out of petrol, but the backfires would suggest lack of spark, and fuel wouldn't effect the rev counter.
Seems as if heat is the issue - the times we broke down it would be ok after a few minutes.

Anyone any ideas? Got me stumped.
Think need to know where the rev counter feed is, not as simple as I'm used to, a green wire by itself or similar.

 

well assuming the rev counter works of the coil as it should

and the coil has been replaced, surely it's a power to the coil issue

check the gearbox earth and battery earth, maybe run a new earth to coil

and then check the positive for the coil, and again my run a permanlt live to the coil as a test?

 

I sorted out gearbox earth, was loose...
Cleaned with new washers, tight now.
Same with inner wing earths.

So many wires around the coil, wasn't sure what to do.

So you reckon power feed to coil, check this wire - any idea on colour?
Also run perm live from battery to this and give it a good run, see if it plays up.

Just need to find out what colour wire does what, and should be ok.
You any idea on colours?

Cheers mate

 

ok to find the (switched) live on the coil, pull off one of the red wires, and put a multimetre on it, then turn the ignition on, if you get 12 volts thats the feed in, if it dont, it's the other red wired , once found temp replace this with a perm live

 

Red wires, who'd have thought

So if perm live solves it, how do I go about sorting it for good?
Not the best with electrics as you can tell

Cheers

 

well, that live is Switched, as in is live when the ignition is on,

i guess it comes from tyhe fuse box, sp you could trace it back to there and renew the wire just as it comes off the fuse box.

or attach it to one of the wires off the ignition (but dont cut the ignition wires to add) just peel back the insulation and solder on it

 

has it got a performance airfilter fitted?

 

No red wires, couple grey, blue, green and orange iirc.
One of greys had 12v, cut that and wired straight to battery, didn't make any difference.
Tried tracing wiring back...

Couldn't get it to start after a while, battery got tired but jumped it off my car with no luck.
Coil gets seriously hot, plastic bubbled at one point, ignition had been on for a while, but not hours.

Wondering if heat is doing it, but the rev counters a funny one.
When it won't start sometimes jumps once, others nothing, others climbs and climbs all time you're cranking.

Had a gutful of it now

IAN - Everything is stock mate

 

your coil is bubbling??

are you sure you put the live on the right side??? and not put a live on an earth???

 

Connector has 4 sections, one of which fed 12v+ when ignition on, this I wired to battery.
Even wired normally coil gets bastard hot.

When it did run, would be idling fine, then just cut out and not restart.
Pissed me off, wasted a day off on the shit

 

ok one of the 12v will be from the coil, the other goes someone else (relay or somewhere,

so if you unplug one, and test the wire, it will switch on and off with the key

the other gets the live from the one from the key, if that makes sense

but you defo need a new coil

what year is your car??

i might have a spare one (but not sure)

 

It's NOT my car

One of wires read 5v or so, one 12v+, other 2 read 0.
Could this be a problem, the 5v one?

It's a G plate with TU3 engine I think he said.
Plastic case of coil bubbled for a second where metal got so hot, did run after this once cooled down, not for long.

I call it coil, it's this style as opposed to cylinder old type:
http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/Rena...0Amplifier.jpg

 

ah my mistake, it's not a gti XU, but the theory was the same, but obviously he connections would be different,

i'd get a new coil and maybe borrow an amp from someone

 

Matey has just said it started and ran fine just now, as it had cooled down.
Coil still had some warmth.

I don't know how hot they should get, or why this one is getting as hot as it is - seems to be root of all the troubles.

Any ideas mate?

Edit/ Fuck, I replied to this, where'd that go

Had a couple cars with misfires that have been the amp, but dropped a pot on 4 pot, and 2 on 6 pots.
Never heard of them affected by heat, but that isn't conclusive.
Just they're not cheap, have to hunt the scrappies.

The coil is nearly new, problem remained when renewed
Wondering if it's 100% correct one.

 

worth checking the part numbers on the 205 forum

 

Which one?

Only found one, and had about 2 topic replies this month

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index...d9c4b0&act=idx

there's even a TU section

 

Nice one

Think that cropped up, but the gti bit made me think it would be no good

Cheers mate, will get him onto it

 

Well he went on that forum, found exact same issues down to ignition amplifier - as I said only thing that hasn't been changed.
So far so good, cheers for link Spiky

 

no prbs