Whats the best way to set up a very high spec engine? (500BHP+)
as I see it there are 3 main ways of doing it, engine dyno, live mapping whilst being driven or set up on the rolling road.
which one is the most accurate for BHP readings (my moneys on the dyno) which one is best for setting the engine up in the real world as it is in the car? (my moneys on the live drive map)
whats the best overall way to set/map the car or is it a combination of the lot?

 

In my opinion, dyno it, then fine map in the car.

Dyno will create more than sufficient load. If it doesnt break on the dyno then it shouldnt break in the car - unless the installation is wrong!

F1 and works WRC cars do not go on the rollers!!

 

if the engine is a little bit of a one off ( strange cams/compression ratio bla bla) then i would engine dyno it first ( which is a great way of getting accurate bhp figures) then i would live map it in the real world out on the road!

if its a standard conversion ( touring car spec say) then i would just live map out on the road

 

IMO the ONLY way to do it properly is engine dyno followed by on the road (well somewhere like Brunters where you can get it flat-oot) once installed in the car.

 

damn Mike beat me to it

Harvey told me you only need to live map it if your gona hold it flat out in 5th gear. Didnt mention it till I told him that if I didnt get it done I would hear about it for the rest of my life from Mike ....also as thats how I blew the last one up I guess it would be wise not to make the same mistake.

 

As Collins told me re my chip....applies to all off the shelf chips for YOUR spec engine...dont hold it flat out in fifth as it WILL melt ...Youd need a live map for that to make sure its perfect!

 

dyno are only for ppl chassing numbers
a dyno figure is no where near a in the car figure
live mapped from a base map if not chassing big numbers and got nothing to prove

 

Brom,
What a crock of shit . How do you hold the loads on the car on the road ?

The dyno is not for people chasing numbers, the dyno is for people that want to be able to replicate run after run after run and to be able to record the difference any changes may make .

Your method would leave you completely in the dark as to whether your adjustments gained or lost you power. Unless of course your "ass dyno" is capable of detecting such improvements .

 

ok micky you know everything as normal

if a dyno is so good then y have it live mapped after
brunters and a wide band lamda will do me my engine has had plenty of 8800 rpm and not missed a beat unlike you engine thats let go 3 times in as many months

 

all depends on what resources you have available at what price.

ideally you would want it done on an engine dyno first as in theory you can do all of the part load stuff and warm up stuff and whatever, quicker than in the car.

you would then need to tweak it all once it's in the car with proper exhaust and inlet and airflow though.

the chassis dyno could also be used for certain parameters where airflow is not an issue, but is basically a waste of time compared to in car live map which you should be doing anyway.

 

You don't have it fully live mapped, you have it live "checked" and any mods required (usually at one or two points on the top line) are carried out . This is because the air box / exhaust on the car are not quite as free flowing as the ones on the dyno .

Fuck me, that's twice more thank I knew about . There was that time at Bedford which has been explained on numerous occasions , when were the other two?

 

its only banter mikey dont loose your reciding hair!!!!!!!!!
YOU GAY CUNT

wait and see next yr maybe you wont doubt the brom build
when am running a proper boost and gearbox

 

Actually......on thinkin about it......if you dyno your engine you are taking it to its absolute limit and then back off.......so why after this do you have to run the engine in? ..Surely its already fucked!

 

Brom,
The day I worry about anything you say, is the day you ask me if I "fancy some Brom love?" .

And you must be reading into things, as where do I criticise your engine / build etc ? Talk about paranoid .

I just don't happen to agree with what you put about mapping - nothing more .

Don't worry, I will soon be wearing a "syrup" at this rate of hair loss .

 

Have you really ???

 

Phil,
Firstly, the dyno has a run-in program and secondly, it is held at these revs for no longer than a few seconds at a time .

Something that you can't do in car, as it would take forever to build to the high revs under load, whereas the dyno doesn't work like that .

 

if tho rainbums a cock at times, i agree with him

 

Ranj,
That's gotta be better than ALL the time . And please edit your post so that it makes sense .

 

i cant be assed

 

Right as usual, must be done & think ive proved ive got all the horses in the car.

 

You can hold load on an engine dyno and keep it there for longer periods of time for a more precise map so why would you have to then tweak it on the road? In my thinking it should already be set up to perfection.

 

Sounds about right, but Mark spends ages in my car ,writing his memoirs
on his laptop, muttering something about improvements to part throttle openings etc. Can only say it must be hard to improve something that is perfect.
Rod

 

In my understanding it is because of certain things that are not present on the dyno as im sure you do not use your own exhaust and intercooler, (for example) But in the car you will and these may be restrictive in some way.

Correct me if i am wrong though