T5 gearbox removal
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,392
Likes: 140
From: Warrington
Has anyone, or is it possible to remove T5 from a Sapphire with the car only on axle stands ?
The reason i ask is CTS are currently working on 2-3 week turnaround on gearbox rebuilds, and there will not be to many garages that want to store my car for that long after taking the box out for me.
Or am i trying to do the impossible
cheers
Dave
The reason i ask is CTS are currently working on 2-3 week turnaround on gearbox rebuilds, and there will not be to many garages that want to store my car for that long after taking the box out for me.
Or am i trying to do the impossible
cheers
Dave
ive done it, well with a type 9 anyhow.
drop the front ARB mounts, undo gearbox to engine bolts, remove prop and catch the oil fromt he box, then place a jack under the box and undo the gearbox mount.
then lower the jack and pull it backwards.
it will slide out no worries.
just dont drop it on your head!
job done
drop the front ARB mounts, undo gearbox to engine bolts, remove prop and catch the oil fromt he box, then place a jack under the box and undo the gearbox mount.
then lower the jack and pull it backwards.
it will slide out no worries.
just dont drop it on your head!
job done
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You could use an engine crane to lift the front of the car higher if the jack/axle stands won't get it high enough. (Obviously make sure you support the car properly before going under it)
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
Originally Posted by RichardPON
Pain in the arse but doable...
i found there wasnt enough room to get box on top of large trolley jack under the car so i ended up using a little farty halfords trolley jack with a jacking plate of about 2" diameter

"quaife balancing" as its now known became a speciality very quickly
did it all on my own too which for me and mechanics is pretty much unheard of
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From: Dunstable (Junction 9 or 11 of the M1)
Originally Posted by IANS2RST
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
Its his first go at it (I think)
I'm sure that it would fall off the arm and drop in to the bellhousing meaning you would then have to take it off aswell. I'd just take the bellhousing off complete with box - not that difficult.
just make sure you have a block of wood or something at the back of the engine to stop the engine rocking back on to the the bulkhead and snapping the heater matrix pipe. Wank engine mounts cause it to rock so much
and don't let the box hang on the input shaft when your struggling to get it back on
Originally Posted by BigErn
Did it last weekend on axle stands, see thread "Lawnsys Clutch" for a pic of how high it wasnt!


Originally Posted by Dan@Rapid-Ford
Originally Posted by IANS2RST
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
Its his first go at it (I think)
I'm sure that it would fall off the arm and drop in to the bellhousing meaning you would then have to take it off aswell. I'd just take the bellhousing off complete with box - not that difficult.
just make sure you have a block of wood or something at the back of the engine to stop the engine rocking back on to the the bulkhead and snapping the heater matrix pipe. Wank engine mounts cause it to rock so much
and don't let the box hang on the input shaft when your struggling to get it back on

I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: May 2004
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From: West Sussex
Originally Posted by IANS2RST
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
Done it this way myself alot lot easier
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,392
Likes: 140
From: Warrington
So just to clarify, i can just remove the box itself (4 large Torx), and leave the clutch bellhousing in place.
And when i come to refit, it 'should' slot back into place without major problems ??
As you can probably tell i have not removed gearbox or clutches before.
cheers
And when i come to refit, it 'should' slot back into place without major problems ??
As you can probably tell i have not removed gearbox or clutches before.
cheers
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,392
Likes: 140
From: Warrington
How the hell do you (get too, to) remove the top 2 torx bolt on the gearbox ????
i've removed part of the exhaust, and cracked the bottom 2 bolts but there is f##k all space to get at the top 2. Is there any way or easing the whole lot down or to the side to gain more access.
At present i can barely get the torx bit onto the bolt square so i don't bugger it up.
Any tips welcome.
cheers
Dave
i've removed part of the exhaust, and cracked the bottom 2 bolts but there is f##k all space to get at the top 2. Is there any way or easing the whole lot down or to the side to gain more access.
At present i can barely get the torx bit onto the bolt square so i don't bugger it up.
Any tips welcome.
cheers
Dave
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
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From: Building a gearbox in Markyate
1st rule is; make sure you're safe!!!
Axle stands, ramps, wheels, anything that ensures your safety. Bricks will not do...
Do not get under a car suspended on just a jack. PLEASE!
Axle stands, ramps, wheels, anything that ensures your safety. Bricks will not do...
Do not get under a car suspended on just a jack. PLEASE!
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
From: Building a gearbox in Markyate
Originally Posted by Dave Ridge
How the hell do you (get too, to) remove the top 2 torx bolt on the gearbox ????
i've removed part of the exhaust, and cracked the bottom 2 bolts but there is f##k all space to get at the top 2. Is there any way or easing the whole lot down or to the side to gain more access.
At present i can barely get the torx bit onto the bolt square so i don't bugger it up.
Any tips welcome.
cheers
Dave
i've removed part of the exhaust, and cracked the bottom 2 bolts but there is f##k all space to get at the top 2. Is there any way or easing the whole lot down or to the side to gain more access.
At present i can barely get the torx bit onto the bolt square so i don't bugger it up.
Any tips welcome.
cheers
Dave
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,392
Likes: 140
From: Warrington
Bernie
cars on axel stands at the front (plus backup blocks and trolley jack), back still on wheels.
Will call you tomorrow
3 trox now cracked open, 1 to go.
Dave
cars on axel stands at the front (plus backup blocks and trolley jack), back still on wheels.
Will call you tomorrow
3 trox now cracked open, 1 to go.
Dave
Hi there mate
As all the others have already said quite easy to remove but would be better to have a friend to help putting it back,
did mine on axle stands to change the clutch but needed a hand putting it back/lineing it up much easier that way.
As all the others have already said quite easy to remove but would be better to have a friend to help putting it back,
did mine on axle stands to change the clutch but needed a hand putting it back/lineing it up much easier that way.
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