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T5 gearbox removal

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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:40 AM
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Default T5 gearbox removal

Has anyone, or is it possible to remove T5 from a Sapphire with the car only on axle stands ?

The reason i ask is CTS are currently working on 2-3 week turnaround on gearbox rebuilds, and there will not be to many garages that want to store my car for that long after taking the box out for me.

Or am i trying to do the impossible

cheers
Dave
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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ive done it, well with a type 9 anyhow.

drop the front ARB mounts, undo gearbox to engine bolts, remove prop and catch the oil fromt he box, then place a jack under the box and undo the gearbox mount.

then lower the jack and pull it backwards.

it will slide out no worries.

just dont drop it on your head!

job done
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:46 AM
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oh ah, disconnect the speedo cable and wiring plugs before you pull it out lol, and the clutch cable
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:46 AM
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sounds so easy
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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i done it on my own in less than 3 hours lol, to change the clutch
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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ps that was putting it back in too lol
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Old May 25, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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Dan
how high did you have the car off the ground ?
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Old May 25, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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erm, high enough to clear the bellhousing lol

i only had the car on axle stands so you should be fine
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Old May 25, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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You could use an engine crane to lift the front of the car higher if the jack/axle stands won't get it high enough. (Obviously make sure you support the car properly before going under it)
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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I did it several times on axle stands. Pain in the arse but doable...
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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my torx bolts were all rounded off, so i had to get medeavil with the angle grinder lol

but the box was ont he floor of the garage, so it wasnt a problem lol
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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cheers guys
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RichardPON
Pain in the arse but doable...
just a bit!

i found there wasnt enough room to get box on top of large trolley jack under the car so i ended up using a little farty halfords trolley jack with a jacking plate of about 2" diameter

"quaife balancing" as its now known became a speciality very quickly

did it all on my own too which for me and mechanics is pretty much unheard of
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Yep - I did the same!

You moved Matt? Doncaster?
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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getting it out is easy, geting it back in is a b4stard!!!
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:54 PM
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Whats the issues getting it back ??? Lining it up or slotting in shafts
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Old May 25, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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slotting in the shafts, sometimes it falls in first time and some times u can be "wiggling" for an hour! helps with a couple of extra hands too
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Old May 25, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Did it last weekend on axle stands, see thread "Lawnsys Clutch" for a pic of how high it wasnt!
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Old May 25, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by IANS2RST
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
If you do it like that how do you make sure you release bearing goes back on on the shaft properly? and lining up the clutch plate would be an arse would probably end up fucking the pinion bearing in the end of the crank from trying.

Its his first go at it (I think)

I'm sure that it would fall off the arm and drop in to the bellhousing meaning you would then have to take it off aswell. I'd just take the bellhousing off complete with box - not that difficult.

just make sure you have a block of wood or something at the back of the engine to stop the engine rocking back on to the the bulkhead and snapping the heater matrix pipe. Wank engine mounts cause it to rock so much

and don't let the box hang on the input shaft when your struggling to get it back on
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Old May 25, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BigErn
Did it last weekend on axle stands, see thread "Lawnsys Clutch" for a pic of how high it wasnt!
Yip easy done just make sure you do not drop the starting motor on your head or get a mouth full of gearbox oil when you drop the back of the box...
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Old May 26, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by RichardPON
Yep - I did the same!

You moved Matt? Doncaster?
yes pal moved to donny last august
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Old May 26, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan@Rapid-Ford
Originally Posted by IANS2RST
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min
If you do it like that how do you make sure you release bearing goes back on on the shaft properly? and lining up the clutch plate would be an arse would probably end up fucking the pinion bearing in the end of the crank from trying.

Its his first go at it (I think)

I'm sure that it would fall off the arm and drop in to the bellhousing meaning you would then have to take it off aswell. I'd just take the bellhousing off complete with box - not that difficult.

just make sure you have a block of wood or something at the back of the engine to stop the engine rocking back on to the the bulkhead and snapping the heater matrix pipe. Wank engine mounts cause it to rock so much

and don't let the box hang on the input shaft when your struggling to get it back on
release bearing is pulled up against the clutch cos you don't disconnect the clutch cable done it a few times & its a lot easier to line up cos the bearing acts as a guide
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Old May 26, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by IANS2RST
you don't need to remove the bellhousing, starter or arb if you are just changing the box as it has a separate bell housing.
remove the rear prop, gearbox mount & speedo cable. then just undo the 4 big torx bolts that hold the box onto the bell housing & remove the box.
last time I did 1 on my back it took just over an hour, if you got a ramp then about 30 min

Done it this way myself alot lot easier
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Old May 31, 2007 | 01:35 PM
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So just to clarify, i can just remove the box itself (4 large Torx), and leave the clutch bellhousing in place.

And when i come to refit, it 'should' slot back into place without major problems ??

As you can probably tell i have not removed gearbox or clutches before.

cheers
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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if you can get the torx bolts out, then yes, you can do it like that.

but go careful putting it back in not to knock anything when trying to get the input shaft in
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Cheers Dan.
Have you got the rear ultralite wheels yet? Would mind a set of those for the Saff.

Dave
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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i have, but they dont have any tires on yet!

hopefully ill get em sorted tomoz and get some pics up
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 07:36 PM
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How the hell do you (get too, to) remove the top 2 torx bolt on the gearbox ????

i've removed part of the exhaust, and cracked the bottom 2 bolts but there is f##k all space to get at the top 2. Is there any way or easing the whole lot down or to the side to gain more access.
At present i can barely get the torx bit onto the bolt square so i don't bugger it up.

Any tips welcome.
cheers
Dave
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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1st rule is; make sure you're safe!!!
Axle stands, ramps, wheels, anything that ensures your safety. Bricks will not do...
Do not get under a car suspended on just a jack. PLEASE!
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Ridge
How the hell do you (get too, to) remove the top 2 torx bolt on the gearbox ????

i've removed part of the exhaust, and cracked the bottom 2 bolts but there is f##k all space to get at the top 2. Is there any way or easing the whole lot down or to the side to gain more access.
At present i can barely get the torx bit onto the bolt square so i don't bugger it up.

Any tips welcome.
cheers
Dave
Phone us. Advice is free
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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Bernie
cars on axel stands at the front (plus backup blocks and trolley jack), back still on wheels.
Will call you tomorrow

3 trox now cracked open, 1 to go.

Dave
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 07:45 AM
  #33  
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Hi there mate
As all the others have already said quite easy to remove but would be better to have a friend to help putting it back,
did mine on axle stands to change the clutch but needed a hand putting it back/lineing it up much easier that way.
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