Loom Gurus - HELP ME!!
#1
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I need to find out if there is any difference inbetween the Escort with the 1.8 16v 105bhp loom and the Fiesta 1.8 16v 105bhp loom.
I have fitted the 2.0 16v Engine to my Fezzie and i have been running the 1.8 16v ECU for a while, i have investigated the the fitment of the 2.0 16V ECU and with the early Mondeos not having PATS and an external EDIS i have sourced what i 'think' is the correct ECU.
Now nearly all the fitment guides i have found:
http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/for...howtopic=49026
and this taken from a post i have on FiestaTurbo.com
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=117639
They are all about fitting the 2.0 ECU into an Escort and not a Fiesta. I have managed to get the loom diagram for the Fiesta from AutoData and it seems to differ quite a bit from the Escort pin readout shown above.
I tried to use what an idea i thought might work, but nope
My idea was that if the Escort pin out chart said that "Injector No1" was pin number 34 in the Escort loom but had to be moved to pin hole number 36 for the Mondeo ECU - i looked up "Injector No1" on the Fiesta loom diagram i have and moved it from its location (where ever that was) to pin hole number 36 still, as it would be the same in the Mondeo ECU.
Does that make any sence?![Confused](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
Even so, i done all the movements i had to and it didn't start
Anyone offer any advice? Please lol
I have fitted the 2.0 16v Engine to my Fezzie and i have been running the 1.8 16v ECU for a while, i have investigated the the fitment of the 2.0 16V ECU and with the early Mondeos not having PATS and an external EDIS i have sourced what i 'think' is the correct ECU.
Now nearly all the fitment guides i have found:
http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/for...howtopic=49026
and this taken from a post i have on FiestaTurbo.com
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=117639
Originally Posted by Scort
Early Zetecs came fitted with external E-DIS. I have recently fitted a 2.0 to my orion, and wanted to make use of a decent 2.0 Mondeo ECU. All Manual Mondeo's are fitted with internal E-DIS.
For this setup I used a DESK ECU, I also tried a DEWY, while I was at it. They both worked fine. It's worth noting that you will need to change the MAF to a 2.0 one also. The 1.8 one is calibrated wrong.
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/ecus.jpg)
I will start with a bit of an ECU pinout chart, as I usually do!! There are a few pins I have not included, for instance Air-Con etc.
Mondeo DESK
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Tacho
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge
12
13 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 1
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection
15 Engine Coolant fan Relay 2
16 Ignition Current return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27 EGR
28 PAS
29
30
31 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 3
32
33 EGR
34 Digital Multifunction Display
35 Injector 4
36
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current Return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51 Injector 1
52 Injector 2
53
54
55 Crank Position Sensor
56 Crank Position Sensor
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Ignition Coil 1&4
59 Ignition Coil 2&3
60 Current return
Escort
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Ignition Control Module
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge (37)
12
13
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (37)
15
16 Ignition Control Current Return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27
28 PAS
29
30
31
32
33
34
35 Injector 4
36 Ignition Control Module
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51
52
53
54
55
56 Ignition Control Module
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Injector 1
59 Injector 2
60 Current Return
It's obvious from even briefly looking at the pinouts, the main problems! Injectors 1&2 are in completely different places. Also the CPS is connected directly to the ECU, rather than the E-DIS unit.
Firstly, disconnect your battery, and remove the ecu. Then try and remove the wrapping tape on the part of the loom that enters the engine bay, to the E-DIS unit.
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/wiring.jpg)
You will need to run a new wire to the ECU from the CPS. I used a piece of 0.25mm 2-Pair screened cable. This basically needs to be run from the CPS right up to the ECU plug, and connected to - Pins 55 & 56. I had some pins from another old loom, with about 50mm of cable still left on them, as I don't have any ECU plug pins, I soldered the wires to these and inserted thepins. One of the pins is already taken up. Remove this pin and leave it out for a minute.
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/ecuplug.jpg)
Once this is connected you can swap some wires over for your injectors.
The coil pack centre wire is an ignition live, and the ECU pulses each coil. I used the old wires that were connected to the injectors, cut and connected them to the DIS pack. These connect to pins 58 & 59,(to which they are already connected) they are fire cylinders 1 & 4, and 3 & 2 respectively.
The next cable and pin changes to be done are for the injectors. You will have cut the cables to use them for the coil pack. I used the two of the cables from the E-DIS unit (to which there are four), and connected them to the injectors. These then need moving from their current positions on the ECU plug, to pins 51 & 51, injectors 1 & 2 respectively.
One of the last connections to be made is for the Tacho. You will have had a green wire running from the E-DIS module. It will be the only green wire there, this needs connecting to the blue and yellow wire which comes from the E-DIS unit and goes to pin 4 on the ECU plug. Bell it out to ensure the colours are the same though!
Pin 16 on the ECU needs to be connected to current return ( the chassis ). I used a short piece of wire connected to the ecu, and connected it near the ECU. This is for the internal DIS.
You will end up with one spare cable going to the ecu, to which I put come heat shrink on both ends and taped back out of the way. You will also have an ignition live feed that went to the E-DIS unit. This also needs to be heat shrunk and taped back out of the way.
Once you have finished, wrap it ull up nicely with loom tape, and your done!
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/complete.jpg)
I have been running a 2.0 on 105 1.8 management for a little while now (mainly because I'm lazy!) but I only noticed a slight increase in power. It did however make the engine run much smoother.
Hope this helps someone,
Steve
For this setup I used a DESK ECU, I also tried a DEWY, while I was at it. They both worked fine. It's worth noting that you will need to change the MAF to a 2.0 one also. The 1.8 one is calibrated wrong.
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/ecus.jpg)
I will start with a bit of an ECU pinout chart, as I usually do!! There are a few pins I have not included, for instance Air-Con etc.
Mondeo DESK
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Tacho
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge
12
13 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 1
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection
15 Engine Coolant fan Relay 2
16 Ignition Current return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27 EGR
28 PAS
29
30
31 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 3
32
33 EGR
34 Digital Multifunction Display
35 Injector 4
36
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current Return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51 Injector 1
52 Injector 2
53
54
55 Crank Position Sensor
56 Crank Position Sensor
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Ignition Coil 1&4
59 Ignition Coil 2&3
60 Current return
Escort
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Ignition Control Module
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge (37)
12
13
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (37)
15
16 Ignition Control Current Return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27
28 PAS
29
30
31
32
33
34
35 Injector 4
36 Ignition Control Module
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51
52
53
54
55
56 Ignition Control Module
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Injector 1
59 Injector 2
60 Current Return
It's obvious from even briefly looking at the pinouts, the main problems! Injectors 1&2 are in completely different places. Also the CPS is connected directly to the ECU, rather than the E-DIS unit.
Firstly, disconnect your battery, and remove the ecu. Then try and remove the wrapping tape on the part of the loom that enters the engine bay, to the E-DIS unit.
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/wiring.jpg)
You will need to run a new wire to the ECU from the CPS. I used a piece of 0.25mm 2-Pair screened cable. This basically needs to be run from the CPS right up to the ECU plug, and connected to - Pins 55 & 56. I had some pins from another old loom, with about 50mm of cable still left on them, as I don't have any ECU plug pins, I soldered the wires to these and inserted thepins. One of the pins is already taken up. Remove this pin and leave it out for a minute.
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/ecuplug.jpg)
Once this is connected you can swap some wires over for your injectors.
The coil pack centre wire is an ignition live, and the ECU pulses each coil. I used the old wires that were connected to the injectors, cut and connected them to the DIS pack. These connect to pins 58 & 59,(to which they are already connected) they are fire cylinders 1 & 4, and 3 & 2 respectively.
The next cable and pin changes to be done are for the injectors. You will have cut the cables to use them for the coil pack. I used the two of the cables from the E-DIS unit (to which there are four), and connected them to the injectors. These then need moving from their current positions on the ECU plug, to pins 51 & 51, injectors 1 & 2 respectively.
One of the last connections to be made is for the Tacho. You will have had a green wire running from the E-DIS module. It will be the only green wire there, this needs connecting to the blue and yellow wire which comes from the E-DIS unit and goes to pin 4 on the ECU plug. Bell it out to ensure the colours are the same though!
Pin 16 on the ECU needs to be connected to current return ( the chassis ). I used a short piece of wire connected to the ecu, and connected it near the ECU. This is for the internal DIS.
You will end up with one spare cable going to the ecu, to which I put come heat shrink on both ends and taped back out of the way. You will also have an ignition live feed that went to the E-DIS unit. This also needs to be heat shrunk and taped back out of the way.
Once you have finished, wrap it ull up nicely with loom tape, and your done!
![](http://www.rsbible.co.uk/orion/complete.jpg)
I have been running a 2.0 on 105 1.8 management for a little while now (mainly because I'm lazy!) but I only noticed a slight increase in power. It did however make the engine run much smoother.
Hope this helps someone,
Steve
I tried to use what an idea i thought might work, but nope
![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
My idea was that if the Escort pin out chart said that "Injector No1" was pin number 34 in the Escort loom but had to be moved to pin hole number 36 for the Mondeo ECU - i looked up "Injector No1" on the Fiesta loom diagram i have and moved it from its location (where ever that was) to pin hole number 36 still, as it would be the same in the Mondeo ECU.
Does that make any sence?
![Confused](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
Even so, i done all the movements i had to and it didn't start
![Wall](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/wall.gif)
Anyone offer any advice? Please lol
#2
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Your almost as mad as me by the sound of it
Well, a lot of info to take in, not completely sure where the problem lies, hope im not sounding silly, but why dont you get the wiring diagram fore your car, and the diagram for the engine and ECU combination you have now, and cross reference between the two?
If im being totally ignorant to something youve already typed i appologise now!
I'll try and help as best i can
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Well, a lot of info to take in, not completely sure where the problem lies, hope im not sounding silly, but why dont you get the wiring diagram fore your car, and the diagram for the engine and ECU combination you have now, and cross reference between the two?
If im being totally ignorant to something youve already typed i appologise now!
![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
#4
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Best way if u ask me, i learnt how to wire up both my cars for turbo lumps with wiring diagrams and a lot of head scratching, then my mate, is using some other guys guide off the net, and not only is it not very good, but a lot of it is wrong aswell. Best way is to learn it yourself, then aswell, if something goes wrong, you understand the system and know how to fix it
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
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