Clay bars.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,771
Likes: 1,049
From: Darlington county durham
I got the auto glym clay bar kit for xmas last year and i decided to use it the past few weeks on my car and the wifes car. My cossie was painted last year and there wasnt really alot of dirt in the paint. I did the wifes fiesta today and i couldnt believe the dirt that the clay bar brought out of the paint. The dirt was like a brown colour. It took a few hours to do the whole car. I would reckonmend a clay bar kit to anyone. I would put some pics up if i had proper broadband.
Not really mate,you can get a mild and agressive clay..but having said that i have seen some shocking marring that people have inflicted.
go easy and make sure you use a fair bit of lubricant.
go easy and make sure you use a fair bit of lubricant.
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Easy to use, keep it lubricated and you wont mess it up, the added bonus is that
a) your not polishing grime into your paint once clayed as the grime is gone
b) your paint will feel silky smooth and polishing is then made easier as there is less friction from grime etc, so less elbow work.
I used the meguires kit that comes with the bar and the detailing lube spray for under £20.
Youtube is full of vids to give you some tips. My main tip would be to keep a good hold of the clay bar when using as it is easy to let it slip from your hand and you wont want to be using a bar that has hit the floor on your paintwork.
I also use things like tar spot remover first, you dont have to but I prefer to remove as much shite before I use the clay bar.
a) your not polishing grime into your paint once clayed as the grime is gone
b) your paint will feel silky smooth and polishing is then made easier as there is less friction from grime etc, so less elbow work.
I used the meguires kit that comes with the bar and the detailing lube spray for under £20.
Youtube is full of vids to give you some tips. My main tip would be to keep a good hold of the clay bar when using as it is easy to let it slip from your hand and you wont want to be using a bar that has hit the floor on your paintwork.
I also use things like tar spot remover first, you dont have to but I prefer to remove as much shite before I use the clay bar.
^^ Good advice above 
Claying is one of, if not the most beneficial part of doing a proper routine as everything that comes after it - the polishing, waxing and all subsequent washing, you'll get so much better results and more from the products when they're going over a properly clean surface. Doesn't need doing very often at all, so worth it imo.
Plenty of lubricant is the key as said as usually when someone drops the clay on the ground, it's due to the bar suddenly hitting a dry bit of paintwork and 'grabbing' at it - it then pulls it out of your grip. A little tip I like to do with the bar is after moulding it into a disc, form a little bar on the top surface that you can grip between 2 fingers so you've got more of a hold on it. Also check the surface regularly and refold it, especially when doing the lower half of the doors etc. as it can soon get pretty grubby and you want to be using a clean face to the clay wherever possible.

Claying is one of, if not the most beneficial part of doing a proper routine as everything that comes after it - the polishing, waxing and all subsequent washing, you'll get so much better results and more from the products when they're going over a properly clean surface. Doesn't need doing very often at all, so worth it imo.
Plenty of lubricant is the key as said as usually when someone drops the clay on the ground, it's due to the bar suddenly hitting a dry bit of paintwork and 'grabbing' at it - it then pulls it out of your grip. A little tip I like to do with the bar is after moulding it into a disc, form a little bar on the top surface that you can grip between 2 fingers so you've got more of a hold on it. Also check the surface regularly and refold it, especially when doing the lower half of the doors etc. as it can soon get pretty grubby and you want to be using a clean face to the clay wherever possible.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,771
Likes: 1,049
From: Darlington county durham
Yeh they are easy to use. I just used water for the jub and it seemed to work. Fiddy will have to do urs one day but ive got a funny feeling it will take along time. Get one bought fella and we will do it. Ive only got a bit of mine left now.
aye ill get one bought mush


What is Carnauba Wax?
Carnauba wax comes from the leaves of a plant native to Brazil, the carnauba palm or Copernicia Prunifera to give it it's real name. The wax is obtained by processing the leaves of the plant, it will then be refined and bleached. The wax is not actually the leaves of the plant but an excretion from the leaves.
Carnauba wax is used in a variety of products including, shoe polish, cosmetics, surfboard wax and also in the food industry as a coating on chewing gum and of course in our beloved car wax.
In it's raw form carnauba wax is very, very hard, it is said to be as hard as concrete. A bar of pure carnauba is so hard and brittle it will smash if dropped on the floor. To make Rubbsih Boy's Original edition I use a carnauba wax that is in flake form. The blocks of wax are broken up into flakes, this makes melting far easier.
To be used in a car wax carnauba has to be softened and kept under control. This can be achieved using other waxes, such as Beeswax, and oils, such as coconut oil, all heated up and blended together.
A lot of car wax manufacturers quote high percentages of carnauba wax in their formulae, 70%, 80% some even 100%, how can this be true you may be wondering? Well it can't is the answer. Often when a manufacturer quotes the percentage of carnauba in their product they are referring to the wax content in their product not the total product. Suppose a wax is claimed to contain 70% carnauba, so 70% carnauba and 30% beeswax say = 100% total wax content, this could actually be a very small percentage of the final product, especially where thin liquid or spray waxes are concerned as they will mainly be water.
Last edited by benjaminsarmy; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,771
Likes: 1,049
From: Darlington county durham
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.p...19p10097&rs=gb this ok i might treat the saph?
Dont buy the meguiars replacement clay bar
i got 1 at national day didnt realise till i got home it was only 1 bar for £9.99 what a joke
complete smooth surface clay kit which inc 2 bars £20
i got 1 at national day didnt realise till i got home it was only 1 bar for £9.99 what a joke
complete smooth surface clay kit which inc 2 bars £20
Passionate about fords
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,457
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From: Hampshire, off the a303.
Use a BH regular clay bar, its big enough to do around 3-4 cars easily and its designed to use just water for lubrication so is also very cost effective due to not needing a specific clay lube or quick detailer, you can even use some of your wash solution inside a spray bottle for added slickness across the paintwork.
Dave.
Dave.
Last edited by SWITCHBLADE; Oct 3, 2010 at 05:10 PM.
I also use Meguiars,
http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194
this kit is best IMHO, http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194 comes with a very thick microfiber cloth.
http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194
this kit is best IMHO, http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194 comes with a very thick microfiber cloth.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 27,262
Likes: 585
From: either at work or on way :)
I also use Meguiars,
http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194
this kit is best IMHO, http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194 comes with a very thick microfiber cloth.
http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194
this kit is best IMHO, http://meguiars.co.uk/product/194 comes with a very thick microfiber cloth.
+1
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