Cosworth will not start!!
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Cosworth will not start!!
Hi,
After almost 1 year, i have mounted a refurbished engine,but it will not start.. It turns around but will not start.
There's no spark when i dismount the sparkplug and hold it against the head. I think the problem could be the rpm/tdc sensor or phase sensor distributor. The gap tdc sensor is 1mm.
Is it possible to test these sensors?
Does someone has an idea what the problem could be?
Thanks for the help!!
Best Regards,
Robert
After almost 1 year, i have mounted a refurbished engine,but it will not start.. It turns around but will not start.
There's no spark when i dismount the sparkplug and hold it against the head. I think the problem could be the rpm/tdc sensor or phase sensor distributor. The gap tdc sensor is 1mm.
Is it possible to test these sensors?
Does someone has an idea what the problem could be?
Thanks for the help!!
Best Regards,
Robert
#2
PassionFord Post Troll
I dont think it will spark against the head as its Aluminium, try it against somthing steel. As for no spark it could be loads of things, just keep tryings my advice and when you get sick just pay a mechanic
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Hi,
The ecu was not connected during this time.
Is't possibile to check if the tdc sensor gives a signal to ecu if it sees one of the 4 tooth of the crackshaft pully?
Robert
The ecu was not connected during this time.
Is't possibile to check if the tdc sensor gives a signal to ecu if it sees one of the 4 tooth of the crackshaft pully?
Robert
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Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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i have checked the plugs again. To mix up the rpm/tdc sensor and phase sensor is hard because of the color.
The distributor cap and rotor are replaced. Mayby a stupid question but I can't measure resistance between the rotor and a contact to the cilinder in the distributor.
Is the gap between rotor and contactpoint to big?
The distributor cap and rotor are replaced. Mayby a stupid question but I can't measure resistance between the rotor and a contact to the cilinder in the distributor.
Is the gap between rotor and contactpoint to big?
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Hi Martin,
The fuelpump is working after the igniotion is switched on.
What do you mean by spark from the 'king lead'? A spark directly from the igiontion a-coil?
The fuelpump is working after the igniotion is switched on.
What do you mean by spark from the 'king lead'? A spark directly from the igiontion a-coil?
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Hi,
I have measured the resistance of the sensors.
The tdc sensor was 725 ohms between pins 3 and 4 of the connector to the ecu. That should be oke.
Resistance phase sensore was 799 ohms between pins 5 and 24, also oke.
I have ordered some new sensors, maybe it is not necessary.
Tomorrow i will check the spark directly from the coil.
Robert
I have measured the resistance of the sensors.
The tdc sensor was 725 ohms between pins 3 and 4 of the connector to the ecu. That should be oke.
Resistance phase sensore was 799 ohms between pins 5 and 24, also oke.
I have ordered some new sensors, maybe it is not necessary.
Tomorrow i will check the spark directly from the coil.
Robert
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Hello Gentlemen,
A small update, still not running
I changed the the phasesensor, the old one had damaged wires.
New tdc sensor.
When i turn the key 1 position i can hear the fuelpump running.
But when i crank the engine i do't have 12v on the fuelpump.
I also don't have a spark on the king lead....
Martin:Where can i see what the alarm?
Robert
A small update, still not running
I changed the the phasesensor, the old one had damaged wires.
New tdc sensor.
When i turn the key 1 position i can hear the fuelpump running.
But when i crank the engine i do't have 12v on the fuelpump.
I also don't have a spark on the king lead....
Martin:Where can i see what the alarm?
Robert
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Hi,
I copied this from another post with the alomst the same problem.
This was a reply from nixon 2wd:
Check ALL gaps are OK phase = 0.25mm & TDC=0.6mm
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. Was 12.7V
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. Was 4.9V
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. Was1.54V
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was 4.98V
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was0.76V
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. Was700ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. was 0.000V
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. was 690ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. was between1.5 till 3.5V
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. was 0.000V
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
i'm not a electrician but while cranking, the crancksensor has no Volt, than it's missing the 4 tooth from the crackshaftpully????? But gap is oke0.6mm.
There is also no ''IGNITION TRIGGER'', a bad ignition amp???
Map sensor and tps are a little to low on voltage
Please can somebody help me...with more hits.
Best regards
Robert
I copied this from another post with the alomst the same problem.
This was a reply from nixon 2wd:
Check ALL gaps are OK phase = 0.25mm & TDC=0.6mm
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. Was 12.7V
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. Was 4.9V
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. Was1.54V
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was 4.98V
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was0.76V
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. Was700ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. was 0.000V
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. was 690ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. was between1.5 till 3.5V
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. was 0.000V
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
i'm not a electrician but while cranking, the crancksensor has no Volt, than it's missing the 4 tooth from the crackshaftpully????? But gap is oke0.6mm.
There is also no ''IGNITION TRIGGER'', a bad ignition amp???
Map sensor and tps are a little to low on voltage
Please can somebody help me...with more hits.
Best regards
Robert
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Hi,
I have 12v on the +contact of the groupa.coil measured on -of battery.
But i measure also 12v on the -contact of the groupa.coil measured from -of batterty.
Is this normal?
Robert
I have 12v on the +contact of the groupa.coil measured on -of battery.
But i measure also 12v on the -contact of the groupa.coil measured from -of batterty.
Is this normal?
Robert
#29
PassionFord Post Troll
iTrader: (3)
Hi,
I copied this from another post with the alomst the same problem.
This was a reply from nixon 2wd:
Check ALL gaps are OK phase = 0.25mm & TDC=0.6mm
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. Was 12.7V
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. Was 4.9V
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. Was1.54V
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was 4.98V
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was0.76V
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. Was700ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. was 0.000V
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. was 690ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. was between1.5 till 3.5V
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. was 0.000V
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
i'm not a electrician but while cranking, the crancksensor has no Volt, than it's missing the 4 tooth from the crackshaftpully????? But gap is oke0.6mm.
There is also no ''IGNITION TRIGGER'', a bad ignition amp???
Map sensor and tps are a little to low on voltage
Please can somebody help me...with more hits.
Best regards
Robert
I copied this from another post with the alomst the same problem.
This was a reply from nixon 2wd:
Check ALL gaps are OK phase = 0.25mm & TDC=0.6mm
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. Was 12.7V
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. Was 4.9V
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. Was1.54V
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was 4.98V
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was0.76V
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. Was700ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. was 0.000V
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. was 690ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. was between1.5 till 3.5V
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. was 0.000V
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
i'm not a electrician but while cranking, the crancksensor has no Volt, than it's missing the 4 tooth from the crackshaftpully????? But gap is oke0.6mm.
There is also no ''IGNITION TRIGGER'', a bad ignition amp???
Map sensor and tps are a little to low on voltage
Please can somebody help me...with more hits.
Best regards
Robert
unplug the Crank positition sensor and test directly at the plug. its not unheard of for the pins to come loose in the plugs and it all looks ok untill you push the plugs together and one of the pins is pushed back out of the way.
also check for power at the centre pin of the ignition amp to battery earth.
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Hi,
There's no power on the centerpin of ignition amp. There is 12.5v on the end pin that comes from the coil.
I will put 12v from the ignition to the centerpin and look what's happened.........
There's no power on the centerpin of ignition amp. There is 12.5v on the end pin that comes from the coil.
I will put 12v from the ignition to the centerpin and look what's happened.........
#31
PassionFord Post Troll
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this doesn't show the standard ford immobiliser though... i cant quite remember where that is tied in.
you should have power at that centre pin so long as your ignition switch works correctly which it must as your fuel pump primes and you have 12v at the coil
I would check the resistance of the wire first from the coil + to the ignition amp centre pin.
you also need to investigate the Crank position sensor
Last edited by fraser9764; 04-06-2013 at 09:46 PM.
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