Hi,

After almost 1 year, i have mounted a refurbished engine,but it will not start.. It turns around but will not start.

There's no spark when i dismount the sparkplug and hold it against the head. I think the problem could be the rpm/tdc sensor or phase sensor distributor. The gap tdc sensor is 1mm.

Is it possible to test these sensors?

Does someone has an idea what the problem could be?

Thanks for the help!!

Best Regards,

Robert

 

I dont think it will spark against the head as its Aluminium, try it against somthing steel. As for no spark it could be loads of things, just keep tryings my advice and when you get sick just pay a mechanic

 

Oke thanks, i will try it against something steel. But the plug in the head will normally also spark?

best regards

 

if it has been stood on some sort of charger can have mucked up yu ecu chip ! i have had this before

 

Hi,
The ecu was not connected during this time.
Is't possibile to check if the tdc sensor gives a signal to ecu if it sees one of the 4 tooth of the crackshaft pully?

Robert

 

the whole head is aluminium

 

Aluminium conducts electricity

 

Try closing the cps gap in a touch. 1mm is on the upper limit.
Have a read on here
http://bigturbo.co.uk/

 

Hi,

i have adjust the gap to 0.6 but not with a good result.

Is it possible to test this sensor when it sees a tootch on the crankshaft pully?

 

You need an oscilloscope really, you may be able to pick it up on a multimeter, ive never tried so I dont know. One thing to check is you haven't mixed up any plugs around the phase sensor, iscv, injectors, its easily done.

 

Maybe check your relays under the glove box and check that all fuses are in properly, this happened to me mates saph cossie.

 

i have checked the plugs again. To mix up the rpm/tdc sensor and phase sensor is hard because of the color.
The distributor cap and rotor are replaced. Mayby a stupid question but I can't measure resistance between the rotor and a contact to the cilinder in the distributor.
Is the gap between rotor and contactpoint to big?

 

Does the pump prime when the ignition is switched on?

Have you verified the spark from the 'king lead' as well?

Martin

 

Hi Martin,

The fuelpump is working after the igniotion is switched on.
What do you mean by spark from the 'king lead'? A spark directly from the igiontion a-coil?

 

yes, the king lead is the lead that comes out of the coil.

check the phase sensor in the distributor, common for the contacts/wires to corrode. Check the ignition amp too

also check the crank position sensor is working, a wiggle test is good!

 

The fact the pump primes shows the CPS to be good!

Therefore the next place to check is the coil side and ignition amp.

Martin

 

Hi,

I have measured the resistance of the sensors.
The tdc sensor was 725 ohms between pins 3 and 4 of the connector to the ecu. That should be oke.
Resistance phase sensore was 799 ohms between pins 5 and 24, also oke.
I have ordered some new sensors, maybe it is not necessary.

Tomorrow i will check the spark directly from the coil.

Robert

 

As I say, CPS is fine!

The most likely problem is either a faulty coil or connection or a bad ignition amp.

What alarm do you have?

Martin

 

Hello Gentlemen,

A small update, still not running

I changed the the phasesensor, the old one had damaged wires.
New tdc sensor.

When i turn the key 1 position i can hear the fuelpump running.
But when i crank the engine i do't have 12v on the fuelpump.
I also don't have a spark on the king lead....

Martin:Where can i see what the alarm?

Robert

 

Hi,

I copied this from another post with the alomst the same problem.
This was a reply from nixon 2wd:

Check ALL gaps are OK phase = 0.25mm & TDC=0.6mm

BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. Was 12.7V
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. Was 4.9V
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. Was1.54V
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was 4.98V
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was0.76V
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. Was700ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. was 0.000V
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. was 690ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. was between1.5 till 3.5V
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms

NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. was 0.000V
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)




i'm not a electrician but while cranking, the crancksensor has no Volt, than it's missing the 4 tooth from the crackshaftpully????? But gap is oke0.6mm.

There is also no ''IGNITION TRIGGER'', a bad ignition amp???

Map sensor and tps are a little to low on voltage

Please can somebody help me...with more hits.

Best regards

Robert

 

Just wondering if the coil is getting 12v+ with ignition on. Some 2wd saphs were powered here differently(either from engine loom or car loom) . I recall modding my loom to suit .

 

It's not the fuel pump, that is the brake pump, fuel pump is pos 2, so do you hear the pump running then?

The pump does not run on cranking, only primes as described above.

Martin

 

Should i have 12v on the coil when the ignotion is on? The fuelpump is running a shorttime when i switch on the ignition.

 

Yes.

Martin

 

Hi,

I have 12v on the +contact of the groupa.coil measured on -of battery.

But i measure also 12v on the -contact of the groupa.coil measured from -of batterty.

Is this normal?

Robert

 

Yes as the power leaves the coil on that side.

Martin

 

Are you sure of this ?

 

Hi,

I really don't have a spark on the king lead.
Will try an another coil.

 

the two in bold are the concerning results.
unplug the Crank positition sensor and test directly at the plug. its not unheard of for the pins to come loose in the plugs and it all looks ok untill you push the plugs together and one of the pins is pushed back out of the way.
also check for power at the centre pin of the ignition amp to battery earth.

 

Hi,

There's no power on the centerpin of ignition amp. There is 12.5v on the end pin that comes from the coil.

I will put 12v from the ignition to the centerpin and look what's happened.........

 

this doesn't show the standard ford immobiliser though... i cant quite remember where that is tied in.
you should have power at that centre pin so long as your ignition switch works correctly which it must as your fuel pump primes and you have 12v at the coil
I would check the resistance of the wire first from the coil + to the ignition amp centre pin.

you also need to investigate the Crank position sensor

 

I have connected 12v from the coil + to the center pin of the ignition amp.
And it starts but it's idle speed is terrible, from 600-2500 rpm.

 

Sounds like the idle valve is playing up you can take off and clean it and try setting the base idle aswell.

 

It runs now oke.
Will have to run in the engine now.

Everybody thanks for the help for now