Originally Posted by mohrrush

Hi,

I copied this from another post with the alomst the same problem.
This was a reply from nixon 2wd:

Check ALL gaps are OK phase = 0.25mm & TDC=0.6mm

BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. Was 12.7V
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. Was 4.9V
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. Was1.54V
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was 4.98V
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. Was0.76V
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. Was700ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. was 0.000V
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. was 690ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. was between1.5 till 3.5V
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. was 4.9Ohms

NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. was 0.000V
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)




i'm not a electrician but while cranking, the crancksensor has no Volt, than it's missing the 4 tooth from the crackshaftpully????? But gap is oke0.6mm.

There is also no ''IGNITION TRIGGER'', a bad ignition amp???

Map sensor and tps are a little to low on voltage

Please can somebody help me...with more hits.

Best regards

Robert