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Old 28-02-2010, 08:44 PM   #1
Mike Kerbey
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Default Sierra Cosworth OCD Update 1/11/2011 NOW FOR SALE

I thought I'd better get some pics up of my cosworth rebuild that Im doing. I bought the car in Jan 2008 and have finally got bored of the 350bhp, as you do! The engine was rebuilt approx 12000miles ago and was still running fine when I took it out. It was running standard everything except for the 6 long studs. Im going for a full rebuild as Im aiming for big power. My plan is to go aftermarket managment with knock sensor and lamba.

Pics of the car how it look a week or two ago




I now have the engine out and fully stripped





Pic of the crank, looks good still from its last build

Finally got the long studs out, struggled with these for ages!!



Now Im waiting until friday to get my block and flywheel back from the machine shop. Getting the block faced and the bores honed.

More pics coming soon!
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Last edited by Mike Kerbey; 01-11-2011 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 28-02-2010, 09:09 PM   #2
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Here are some pics of the shiney new bits Ive collected over the last few months:
Ive got hold of a ported 2wd head, never been used since ported. Bought it off Loader on here and a very good price!





GT3071r turbo from CR turbos



Siemens 83lph injectors


Swedish style inlet bought off Hoogi on here


Got loads more stuff coming in the post this week, Im not going to be popular with the posty I can safely say lol
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Old 28-02-2010, 09:15 PM   #3
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lookin good mike , keep them pics coming
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Old 28-02-2010, 09:28 PM   #4
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looking good mate got some good bits there
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Old 28-02-2010, 10:17 PM   #5
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Looking nice mate, didn't think the inlet had come already! Did you put extra weights on your bar for the photo lol

When my rst is out the way i'll give you a hand with stuff.

Rob,
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Old 28-02-2010, 10:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC View Post
Looking nice mate, didn't think the inlet had come already! Did you put extra weights on your bar for the photo lol

When my rst is out the way i'll give you a hand with stuff.

Rob,
Nah, dont need to use the weights, i just use the turbo lol big and heavy enough
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:42 PM   #7
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Spent this evening subtly modifiying my cylindar head with grinder. I had to remove the original turbo damper casting:




To make space for this




Also seperated my conrods as I taking them to be shot peened at the weekend:



Thats prob all Ill get done this week, will get more done at the weekend once Ive got some more bits delivered!
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Old 04-03-2010, 10:47 AM   #8
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Looking good mate, keep forgetting how massive that turbo really is lol
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Old 04-03-2010, 10:51 AM   #9
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Gonna be a weapon!
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:26 PM   #10
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Done a few bits today. Got my block back from the machine shop and after some plastic surgery, it has a new face!



Nice, freshly honed bores and flywheel





Spent an hour or two carefully measuring the bores to make sure they are all perfectly round at the top, middle and bottom of the cylinder. I done this using a bore gauge, snap gauges and a micrometer. I had a piston held at three different heights using some calibrated, top notch pieces of wood found in the garden. Having the piston in there also helps keep my snap gauge perpendicular to the cylinder walls to get consistent readings.



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Old 05-03-2010, 07:30 PM   #11
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top build mate, will be keeping an eye on this one
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:57 PM   #12
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Top work mate keep it up.This will be an animal when its done.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:01 PM   #13
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have a look on frost restorations
get some manifold grey for the arse end of the turbo and manifold and some allumablast for all the alloy bits it looks brand new when done
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:46 PM   #14
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Does the manifold grey not burn off? Ive tried some manifold paints before and they just smoke for a while and your back to bare metal! I was thinking about getting the manifold and turbo ceramic coated but I thought it was abit expensive for what it is tbh.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:40 PM   #15
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Ive come across some shortages and need to find some bits asap if possible. Hopefully someone has a scrap head with the following bits nailed on, I have put up a thread in the wanted section too. Can pay with paypal.

So, has anyone got the following:

Camshaft pulley bolts and washers. I did see some stainless ones for sale but cant find them anymore??
4 exhaust manifold studs
5 inlet manifold studs
2wd camshaft bearing housing x2
1 stud for the camshaft cap
and 2 thinner studs for the front bearing cap

Would be a great help...cheers
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:11 PM   #16
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looking good mike! what sort of power you hoping to get when finished
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:35 PM   #17
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Not meaning to be picky no doubt the work thats gone into that head has cost a fair amount, But its been skimmed to hell so much so it has gone in to casting around the exhaust ports.

Have you measured the head thickness? if your planning big power i'd not want to use that head there is no inlet valve seat area left now and run the risk of the valve seat dropping out
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kerbey View Post
Ive come across some shortages and need to find some bits asap if possible. Hopefully someone has a scrap head with the following bits nailed on, I have put up a thread in the wanted section too. Can pay with paypal.

So, has anyone got the following:

Camshaft pulley bolts and washers. I did see some stainless ones for sale but cant find them anymore??
4 exhaust manifold studs
5 inlet manifold studs
2wd camshaft bearing housing x2
1 stud for the camshaft cap
and 2 thinner studs for the front bearing cap

Would be a great help...cheers
The camshaft bearing caps are line bored with the head. You shouldn't use ones from another head. If you have been sold a head with these missing you have been tucked up.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:42 PM   #19
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nice build the cam caps will have to be line bored when you get new one .Neil
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silky16v View Post

Not meaning to be picky no doubt the work thats gone into that head has cost a fair amount, But its been skimmed to hell so much so it has gone in to casting around the exhaust ports.

Have you measured the head thickness? if your planning big power i'd not want to use that head there is no inlet valve seat area left now and run the risk of the valve seat dropping out
I have measured the head and it was a better thickness than the one i took off. The thickness of the head is ok, its not brand new by anymeans. The exhaust ports cant be used for gauging the height as these heads are more than likely to be sand cast and then machine finished on the necessary places and there is still some material around the vavle seats, but I can see why you mentioned it looking at that picture.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:59 PM   #21
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Its not that caps that I am after guys, I'm just missing a couple of the studs and the bearing housing, this thing:

Just dont fancy spending Ł120 for a pair from burtons!
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:05 PM   #22
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Hi Mike,

I think the reason for silky16v's post was due to the known weakness of the material in that area when overskimmed

http://passionford.com/forum/general...limit-why.html

Just a post i read a while back on it
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:43 PM   #23
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I want around 450bhp powerwise, Spec wise it will reach this easy, but Im not necessarily chasing numbers, just a good solid build with nothing stressed to the max (hopefully).

As for the head, that is an interesting read and comparing the figures from the thread to mine are approaching the recommended max limits, another skim and it will defo be scrap!

But cheers for the heads up silky16v and natehall
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Old 08-03-2010, 05:19 PM   #24
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Keep up the good work Mike
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Old 08-03-2010, 05:47 PM   #25
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Will try to James! Ill come down the wsrsoc meet when ive stuck the engine back where it belongs. Still waiting on bits that have taken over a week to come so its stopped progress at the moment, so thats another weekend down the shitter!
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:01 PM   #26
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I hope progress can continue soon Mike

Get ALS btw...it makes a pretty big difference on the road :
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:15 PM   #27
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keep the good work up mate!
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:47 PM   #28
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looking good mate
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Old 21-03-2010, 09:14 AM   #29
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Cheers for the comments lads.

Time for a small update. Finally got the bits ive been waiting for after 3 weeks! Its thrown a spanner in the works big time. Was hoping to have the engine built and run in by central day, but theres no chance of that happening now But any way, heres a few pics of more new goodies, Just need to find some time to screw it all together now!

I bit the bullet and bought some wossner pistons, now I know there have been some mixed views on these off PF, but I dug deeper and looked at the VW and Vauxhall forums and they seem to get on well with them. Aslong as the clearances are set properly then they seem reliable. I think the main problem is that they need more clearance than most other pistons manufacturers and people just arn't aware.




I also bought all new head bits, New newman cams, double valve spring, hydraulic tappets, arp rod bolts and flywheel bolts. Also some ACL race bearings.






Also got hold of a steering coloumn UJ poly bush as mine is completly shagged! Good time to fit it when the engines not in the hole me thinks!


I got a dirt cheap set of cams of ebay with the bearing housings I were after for a tenner, cant complain there! well chuffed!

So all I need to do now is pull my finger out and get building...enjoy!
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Old 21-03-2010, 09:43 AM   #30
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what power are you going for mate ? also who will be mapping the car, must say it seems like its going be a very well put together engine
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Old 21-03-2010, 09:54 AM   #31
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About 450, maybe abit more. I was thinking about going for an Mtech ecu and gettting them to map it, but Ive recently had a re think and I am very tempted to put an L8 ecu in it and have all the extras put on it by MSD and get them to map it as well.

What are peoples thoughts on this?
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Old 21-03-2010, 10:14 AM   #32
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some nice parts you got there so far msd are very good at live mapping a car but when you have problems there help is very poor at times but they do pull it out the bag occasionally though
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Old 21-03-2010, 10:15 AM   #33
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Nice build going on there pal

have you cut a little too much off the head in this pic?





also what ring gaps are you going to be using? just curious!
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Old 21-03-2010, 11:23 AM   #34
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Old 21-03-2010, 12:03 PM   #35
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miller3, Yes i did, I started off using a hacksaw because i thought i might get abit carried away with a grinder. However the hacksaw was impossible to keep in a straight line lol so finished it off with a grinder which was much better!

Im following the original ford tolerances out of the manual for everything, except for the pistons which need 0.1mm clearance.
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Old 21-03-2010, 12:15 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Will try to James! Ill come down the wsrsoc meet when ive stuck the engine back where it belongs.
this sounds like a plan


www.wsrsoc.co.uk


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Old 21-03-2010, 01:05 PM   #37
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Mike,

From what I understand, the problem people have with the Wossner pistons, is when they follow WOSSNER themselves, and go for the gap they suggest. A couple of people have said, that if you put them to a standard gap they are ok...why not a set of mahle and get valve cut outs? Or for a tad more CP!

I think you still stand a chance for Santa Pod
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Old 21-03-2010, 07:37 PM   #38
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Only mention the gaps as iv just gapped some CP piston for my bro in laws binliner, and it worked out to 23tho
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Old 21-03-2010, 07:40 PM   #39
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I see what your saying James, but I'm sure that wossner know what clearance to suggest. I might stick them in the oven for abit and see what the difference in size is after abit of heat expansion. I went for the wossner piston because they were a close match to my bore size and are resonably priced. I was going to get a set of cosworth racing pistons, but the smallest bore size is 91.5mm and I dont see the point in going out to that size when my bores are fine as they are. AND I would not have recieved them until end of april due to being made on demand, or so I was told by the company I contacted about them.
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Old 21-03-2010, 07:45 PM   #40
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The ford manual says ring gaps should be 0.4-0.65mm for the top and middle ring, and the bottom ring 0.3-0.6mm all spaced 120 degrees apart. Dont know what those work out to be in tho though?
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