Sierra Cosworth OCD Update 1/11/2011 NOW FOR SALE
21-03-2010, 07:07 PM
#41
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Update time again! Made some progress this afternoon, got the crank in and all measured up.
I started by giving the crank a degrease and a wipe to get rid of any shite that had stuck to it over the last month
Also degrease my new ACL shells
I then started to measure the thickness of each shell at both ends and in the centre, they were all closly matched with only 0.005mm between all of them.
I had originally planned to measure each journal to give me a starting point as to where to put each shell, but I didnt have to tooling unfortunatly. So I just put them all in and using Plastigauge measured each one
I tightened to specified torque every time
I did this three times to get the smallest range of clearances and ended up with approximatly 0.053mm to 0.0060mm on all five which is about in the middle of fords upper and lower limits of 0.025-0.079mm clearance. So Im happy with that!
I then went on to set the end float of the crankshaft using some gen ford thrusts. I had a quick measure up and they were all near enough the same, not that I could swap and change any way!
I ended up with 0.18mm end float which again is in the middle of fords tolerances of 0.1-0.254mm.
And there you have it, one fitted crank
Next job is to size up the big ends when I get my con rods back from the metal finishers, Which should be either monday or tuesday!
I started by giving the crank a degrease and a wipe to get rid of any shite that had stuck to it over the last month
Also degrease my new ACL shells
I then started to measure the thickness of each shell at both ends and in the centre, they were all closly matched with only 0.005mm between all of them.
I had originally planned to measure each journal to give me a starting point as to where to put each shell, but I didnt have to tooling unfortunatly. So I just put them all in and using Plastigauge measured each one
I tightened to specified torque every time
I did this three times to get the smallest range of clearances and ended up with approximatly 0.053mm to 0.0060mm on all five which is about in the middle of fords upper and lower limits of 0.025-0.079mm clearance. So Im happy with that!
I then went on to set the end float of the crankshaft using some gen ford thrusts. I had a quick measure up and they were all near enough the same, not that I could swap and change any way!
I ended up with 0.18mm end float which again is in the middle of fords tolerances of 0.1-0.254mm.
And there you have it, one fitted crank
Next job is to size up the big ends when I get my con rods back from the metal finishers, Which should be either monday or tuesday!
21-03-2010, 08:13 PM
#44
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Cheers, it never hurts to have a measure up and see what you've got. When you do yours and you need any tolerances etc, drop us a PM and I can send you some info, I have the original ford manual that the ford dealers used many moons ago.
22-03-2010, 03:17 PM
#46
Boost addict
just seen your reply to my comment the other day, 450 should be rather lively to say the least lol, also from what i can gather msd seem like they map a car up really well so id be tempted go for them
22-03-2010, 09:49 PM
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Tiny update, I knocked off work early today because I knew a parcel had arrived for me I was like a kid at christmas, because it meant I can build my head up! I got a new cam belt, camshaft bearings, few odds and sods and my new valve grinding stick 
So I didnt hang around and I got grinding
What I did first was draw a line around the valve seat using a permanent marker and then gave it a quick grind. Then once youve cleaned off the paste you can see where the marker pen has stayed or been removed. This gives you an idea of how much of the valve is touching the seat and how much work needs to be done. Didnt take any pics of this as I was working away
Then using the two pastes, starting off with the coarse and then finishing with the fine, you start grinding, in the mothers kitchen I might add lol.
How to tell when each valve is done? In the picture below you can see the dull grey band around the tip of the valve, this indicates that you have good contact between the valve and the seat.
Abit of a boring pointless update but that was probably the worst job of the whole build and just wanted to get it out the way.
Hopefully the next update will be a rebuilt head.
I was like a kid at christmas, because it meant I can build my head up! I got a new cam belt, camshaft bearings, few odds and sods and my new valve grinding stick So I didnt hang around and I got grindingWhat I did first was draw a line around the valve seat using a permanent marker and then gave it a quick grind. Then once youve cleaned off the paste you can see where the marker pen has stayed or been removed. This gives you an idea of how much of the valve is touching the seat and how much work needs to be done. Didnt take any pics of this as I was working away
Then using the two pastes, starting off with the coarse and then finishing with the fine, you start grinding, in the mothers kitchen I might add lol.
How to tell when each valve is done? In the picture below you can see the dull grey band around the tip of the valve, this indicates that you have good contact between the valve and the seat.
Abit of a boring pointless update but that was probably the worst job of the whole build and just wanted to get it out the way.
Hopefully the next update will be a rebuilt head.
23-03-2010, 07:25 AM
#53
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lol yeah I know Reyland does the plate, It was either the plate, of get the grinder out. I didnt know if with the spacer it might move the turbo that bit closer (considering the size of the thing) to the brakes and the bonnet and cook them abit.
23-03-2010, 06:08 PM
#56
i speak from experience ive seen loads go and still have 3 off peoples cars in my scrap bin speak to garage19 he builds then on the plenum and very tried and tested
23-03-2010, 09:14 PM
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Done them at my house, does it look like your kitchen? lol You can use my stick and paste if you want, got plenty left.
23-03-2010, 09:19 PM
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Mike great thread and i know theres a for things have pointed out so im sorry but i am too im afraid but those inlets split badly and the gt30 is a specailaist in breaking them i speak from experience ive seen loads go and still have 3 off peoples cars in my scrap bin speak to garage19 he builds then on the plenum and very tried and tested
i speak from experience ive seen loads go and still have 3 off peoples cars in my scrap bin speak to garage19 he builds then on the plenum and very tried and testedIm guessing a 4x4 inlet with a spacer plate would be a better route to take then?
Whats your advice for fitting wossers then? When you say they just need fitting right, do you mean follow wossners specs or standard piston specs? I dont know what to think anymore
24-03-2010, 04:27 PM
#65
Shit me, do they? Is the welding shite on them then? Ill stick some cable ties round it for extra strength lol
Im guessing a 4x4 inlet with a spacer plate would be a better route to take then?
Whats your advice for fitting wossers then? When you say they just need fitting right, do you mean follow wossners specs or standard piston specs? I dont know what to think anymore
Im guessing a 4x4 inlet with a spacer plate would be a better route to take then?
Whats your advice for fitting wossers then? When you say they just need fitting right, do you mean follow wossners specs or standard piston specs? I dont know what to think anymore
but a 4x4 inlet with spacer will bo good up to 450 bhp ino as for wossners yes follow all the bore clearance info on the box and the average ring gap will be 7 to 15 thou so if you are going for 450+ bhp i would gap them at 11 thou
31-03-2010, 09:02 PM
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Time for another update.
I finally got round to building my cylinder head. I cleaned out the oil galleries before I started am glad I did, was full of shitty old oil that had pretty much turned into lumps of coal lol Used a whole pack of pipe cleaners, then shoved the pressure washer up them and finally blew it all dry with an air line.
Started fitting some valves with my new double valve springs etc etc with help from me mate:
Your looking at the business end of a royal mail mechanic! goes by the name of ghigo on PF!
Came to a bit of a sudden halt half way through building the head, as the valve spring compressor didnt have enough reach to do the middle 8 valves So had to nip out to halfrauds and they had one that was perfect for the job, another Ł40 quid spent, when will it end???? lol
Fitted my spanking new newman camshafts. BD14 inlet and standard exhaust.
New cam bearings, big improvement over a used set I had
I managed to get hold of a nice set of studs that were peferct for the exhaust manifold!
Ive bought a set of adjustable cam pulleys in black, but I havent fitted them yet, as like the spanner I am, I sold the pulley bolts without thinking! So a quick call to reyland and I have ordered a pair of stainless ones that will be here special delivery tomorrow
Then this morning I went to pick up my shot peened con rods, very pleased with the way they have come out and cant knock the price either!
Also got a new MASSIVE itg cone filter which got delivered today aswell
I started having a little bufty session and painted up my inlet manifold, engine mounts etc ready for bolting back on
Also thought I would try my luck at using some wrinkle paint
And was very pleased with the way it came out. Came out so well I might even do my cam cover in it too...
Sprays on like normal
Then before you know after about half hour, it looks like this
Still not completely dry yet in the above pic, so will get even more wrinkles and more of a matt finish.
Jobs for this weekend is to get the rods and pistons in the block and nail the head on!
I finally got round to building my cylinder head. I cleaned out the oil galleries before I started am glad I did, was full of shitty old oil that had pretty much turned into lumps of coal lol Used a whole pack of pipe cleaners, then shoved the pressure washer up them and finally blew it all dry with an air line.
Started fitting some valves with my new double valve springs etc etc with help from me mate:
Your looking at the business end of a royal mail mechanic! goes by the name of ghigo on PF!
Came to a bit of a sudden halt half way through building the head, as the valve spring compressor didnt have enough reach to do the middle 8 valves
So had to nip out to halfrauds and they had one that was perfect for the job, another Ł40 quid spent, when will it end???? lolFitted my spanking new newman camshafts. BD14 inlet and standard exhaust.
New cam bearings, big improvement over a used set I had
I managed to get hold of a nice set of studs that were peferct for the exhaust manifold!
Ive bought a set of adjustable cam pulleys in black, but I havent fitted them yet, as like the spanner I am, I sold the pulley bolts without thinking!
So a quick call to reyland and I have ordered a pair of stainless ones that will be here special delivery tomorrow Then this morning I went to pick up my shot peened con rods, very pleased with the way they have come out and cant knock the price either!
Also got a new MASSIVE itg cone filter which got delivered today aswell
I started having a little bufty session and painted up my inlet manifold, engine mounts etc ready for bolting back on
Also thought I would try my luck at using some wrinkle paint
And was very pleased with the way it came out. Came out so well I might even do my cam cover in it too...
Sprays on like normal
Then before you know after about half hour, it looks like this
Still not completely dry yet in the above pic, so will get even more wrinkles and more of a matt finish.
Jobs for this weekend is to get the rods and pistons in the block and nail the head on!
01-04-2010, 03:21 PM
#73
Started fitting some valves with my new double valve springs etc etc with help from me mate:
Your looking at the business end of a royal mail mechanic! goes by the name of ghigo on PF!
Your looking at the business end of a royal mail mechanic! goes by the name of ghigo on PF!
Good work mate, let me know if you want a hand over the weekend as my panels haven't come yet (probably because i haven't ordered them!), so only going to be tidying the front end this easter. Might be ordering a TIG welder this weekend, so if your manifold cracks we have the solution
Rob,
01-04-2010, 07:13 PM
#75
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The rods were seven quid each and they mask up all the necessary areas. The idea behind it is it increases fatigue life as it de-stresses the the surface. Theres quite alot of theory behind it but Im not massivly clued up on it. I just thought I would get it done as they were out and try to toughen them up abit. Its quite good to do on gears in your diff and gear box, works a treat on them!
01-04-2010, 08:05 PM
#76
will follow this looks like a good home build.
I personally would have waited for the cosworth racing pistons and after spending all this money sold the head and hunted for a thicker one but i can see why you have gone with what you have.
im inpatient too lol.
Good luck with it, looks like it will be a powerful car when its done.
I personally would have waited for the cosworth racing pistons and after spending all this money sold the head and hunted for a thicker one but i can see why you have gone with what you have.
im inpatient too lol.
Good luck with it, looks like it will be a powerful car when its done.
15-04-2010, 11:13 AM
#77
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I know what you saying mate, If I knew what I knew now about how long things were going to take, then I would have held out and waited for the other pistons. I ended up waiting for weeks for other bits that should have been a few days to get delivered! I was hoping to have the engine in the car with a few miles on it by now. Even planned a trip to central day to have a look around but thats gone out the window now!
Any how, time for an update, I fitted up the pistons, conrods and pins. First of all I was abit pissed of that my conrod threads were full of shot from being shot blasted. But when I picked the rods up from the firm, the bolts where already done up tight, but once I got the bolts out, there was no way of getting them back in without them locking up! So I spent ages trying to find someone with a tap that fitted due to the being AF! So a quick clear out of the threads with a tap and the bolts wound in perfectly! Panic Over!
I then weighed all three items with a gram or two differences across all four pistons, same with the pins. So I put the lightest pin with the heaviest piston. All the conrods are all the same weight due to being previously balanced etc. I then chose which gudgeon pin fitted best in each conrod and the proceeded to mount the piston to the rod
I selected each con rod shell using the same method I used for the crank. Ending up with the middle of ford tolerances again. Things are going to well I thought, only to find...
My rings didnt fit! I could have parked a bicycle in the gaps! So on the phone I got and Id been sent the wrong rings. The biggest pain though was that I discovered this late afternoon on thursday before easter! so nothing could be done until the next tuesday! So my long weekend off went down the shitter! So a week later the rings came and I finally got gapping!
Got all the pistons in and bottem end bolted up
Sump on with new gaskets and seals (obviously)
I Had a trial fit of my plenum and inlet manifold only to find that I was missing all the gaskets for the inlet side!!! So, on the phone again and they had left the inlet gaskets out by mistake and sent me a set next day!
Put my long studs back in the block and its ready for a head!
Head on and all torqued up!
I was just about to fit up the inlet to head when I managed to slice my finger on something right down the knuckle and Im pretty sure I could see bone! So now its all bandaged up and strapped to my other finger to stop me from opening it up again! So now I feel like a abit of a spastic and cant do anymore work for abit with only one hand!
This engine better worth the hassle its caused!!
Any how, time for an update, I fitted up the pistons, conrods and pins. First of all I was abit pissed of that my conrod threads were full of shot from being shot blasted. But when I picked the rods up from the firm, the bolts where already done up tight, but once I got the bolts out, there was no way of getting them back in without them locking up! So I spent ages trying to find someone with a tap that fitted due to the being AF! So a quick clear out of the threads with a tap and the bolts wound in perfectly! Panic Over!
I then weighed all three items with a gram or two differences across all four pistons, same with the pins. So I put the lightest pin with the heaviest piston. All the conrods are all the same weight due to being previously balanced etc. I then chose which gudgeon pin fitted best in each conrod and the proceeded to mount the piston to the rod
I selected each con rod shell using the same method I used for the crank. Ending up with the middle of ford tolerances again. Things are going to well I thought, only to find...
My rings didnt fit! I could have parked a bicycle in the gaps!
So on the phone I got and Id been sent the wrong rings. The biggest pain though was that I discovered this late afternoon on thursday before easter! so nothing could be done until the next tuesday! So my long weekend off went down the shitter! So a week later the rings came and I finally got gapping!Got all the pistons in and bottem end bolted up
Sump on with new gaskets and seals (obviously)
I Had a trial fit of my plenum and inlet manifold only to find that I was missing all the gaskets for the inlet side!!! So, on the phone again and they had left the inlet gaskets out by mistake and sent me a set next day!
Put my long studs back in the block and its ready for a head!
Head on and all torqued up!
I was just about to fit up the inlet to head when I managed to slice my finger on something right down the knuckle and Im pretty sure I could see bone! So now its all bandaged up and strapped to my other finger to stop me from opening it up again! So now I feel like a abit of a spastic and cant do anymore work for abit with only one hand!
This engine better worth the hassle its caused!!
