puma/fiesta/ka rear shock fitting issues
#1
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puma/fiesta/ka rear shock fitting issues
Hi chaps.
I originallyposted in the tech section but i'm not sure if thats right as everyone else seems to be posting in their relevant car section so here goes
I have a late 1999 puma 1.7, and have just changed the rear shocks for new ford items. They are the "eye" type not the "fork" type, although i don't think that makes a difference to what the problem is as they were changed like for like.
When i slid on the new top mounts, fed the shock into the rear of the car, then bolted the top "cup" on, after letting the weight back on the car, there is a small gap between the cup and the body of around 8mm.
However, when i take the shock off the car and bolt it up complete, the gap is still apparent and couldn't possibly be taken up as the thickness of the bodywork is around 1-2mm.
The top mount is tight to the bodywork and the locating lug is in the cutout in the shock tower on the body of the car. I can't see how the top "cup" bolts on any tighter to take up the gap
Has anyone had this before, is it normal? And if not can anyone help.
Everythings tight, and it doesn't rattle over bumps but i've a feeling somethings not quite right
Cheers
I originallyposted in the tech section but i'm not sure if thats right as everyone else seems to be posting in their relevant car section so here goes
I have a late 1999 puma 1.7, and have just changed the rear shocks for new ford items. They are the "eye" type not the "fork" type, although i don't think that makes a difference to what the problem is as they were changed like for like.
When i slid on the new top mounts, fed the shock into the rear of the car, then bolted the top "cup" on, after letting the weight back on the car, there is a small gap between the cup and the body of around 8mm.
However, when i take the shock off the car and bolt it up complete, the gap is still apparent and couldn't possibly be taken up as the thickness of the bodywork is around 1-2mm.
The top mount is tight to the bodywork and the locating lug is in the cutout in the shock tower on the body of the car. I can't see how the top "cup" bolts on any tighter to take up the gap
Has anyone had this before, is it normal? And if not can anyone help.
Everythings tight, and it doesn't rattle over bumps but i've a feeling somethings not quite right
Cheers
#3
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Stu, i'll try and get one up.
I don't think i'm missing anything as it was taken off the car just because one shocker was leaking.
I can't see for the life of me whats wrong though, although i'll be the first to admit it must be something as it certainly doesn't sound right.
Ive basically got the shock. Then the spring sat on the platform. Then the top spring cup. Then the top mount sat in between the spring clips of the shock. Fed this up through the rear shock tower, then put the top "cup" on, and put the nut on the top of the shock, tightened it all up and its like this.
The problem lies with the top "cup" having a 18mm or so boss sticking out of the bottom of it which bolts up tight against the top mount creating the gap.
It would seem someone before me has had the drivers rear shock off and encountered the same problem at some point, as they have ground the boss back to around 12mm or so. I got 2 new cups for the rear, and these have a boss of around 12mm ish from new, althought the gap's still apparent a bit
I don't think i'm missing anything as it was taken off the car just because one shocker was leaking.
I can't see for the life of me whats wrong though, although i'll be the first to admit it must be something as it certainly doesn't sound right.
Ive basically got the shock. Then the spring sat on the platform. Then the top spring cup. Then the top mount sat in between the spring clips of the shock. Fed this up through the rear shock tower, then put the top "cup" on, and put the nut on the top of the shock, tightened it all up and its like this.
The problem lies with the top "cup" having a 18mm or so boss sticking out of the bottom of it which bolts up tight against the top mount creating the gap.
It would seem someone before me has had the drivers rear shock off and encountered the same problem at some point, as they have ground the boss back to around 12mm or so. I got 2 new cups for the rear, and these have a boss of around 12mm ish from new, althought the gap's still apparent a bit
#4
GAP
Do you mean the strut assembly does'nt fit tight to the chassis?
When i worked at a well known car supermarket and a car had an mot fail for "strut loose" we would whip off the top plate cut 3-4mm off and refit this would cure the fault.
After speaking to a ford techy i was told this movement is normal
When i worked at a well known car supermarket and a car had an mot fail for "strut loose" we would whip off the top plate cut 3-4mm off and refit this would cure the fault.
After speaking to a ford techy i was told this movement is normal
#5
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Do you mean the strut assembly does'nt fit tight to the chassis?
When i worked at a well known car supermarket and a car had an mot fail for "strut loose" we would whip off the top plate cut 3-4mm off and refit this would cure the fault.
After speaking to a ford techy i was told this movement is normal
When i worked at a well known car supermarket and a car had an mot fail for "strut loose" we would whip off the top plate cut 3-4mm off and refit this would cure the fault.
After speaking to a ford techy i was told this movement is normal
My worry is its an MOT failure for the reasons said. I don't mind cutting the top plate/cup back, but if there is a real reasoning for the movement i'd rather know first off.
I can't get your mood from the little emoticon mate, are you indicating the ford techy is correct in what he says, or implying he was talking crap
Thanks
Jamie
#6
I am a mot tester.
I feel that this should be a fail but the official ministry criteria is to check both sides and if both sides are the same then pass it.
I would nip down to your local ford garage and ask one of the techys,its 4 years since i worked on these so the official ford line might have changed.
I feel that this should be a fail but the official ministry criteria is to check both sides and if both sides are the same then pass it.
I would nip down to your local ford garage and ask one of the techys,its 4 years since i worked on these so the official ford line might have changed.
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I am a mot tester.
I feel that this should be a fail but the official ministry criteria is to check both sides and if both sides are the same then pass it.
I would nip down to your local ford garage and ask one of the techys,its 4 years since i worked on these so the official ford line might have changed.
I feel that this should be a fail but the official ministry criteria is to check both sides and if both sides are the same then pass it.
I would nip down to your local ford garage and ask one of the techys,its 4 years since i worked on these so the official ford line might have changed.
Sorry for the late reply. Spoke to the lads at my dads work, MOT testers and guys who worked alongside ford techs and they confirmed the MOT thing. Apparently its the same thing withthe Galaxy's regarding the small gap at the top aswell. So all's good. Thanks lads
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