stevebyrne616

Hi,
I have S1 RST that has developed a problem starting. I have checked the spark and it is healthy,checked the fuel pump and it is OK as the line to fuel filter vibrates as the pumps primes the system. Also removed the banjo fitting before and after the filter and pressure there. Have checked the fuel distributor and the plunger lifted by the air sensing plate is free and not sticking. The air sensing plate is also free moving. What I have noticed is when I push the sensing plate down about 3mm the car starts first time and will continue to start unless left for 4 hours. I have checked for air leaks in the induction system ans also checked the "O" ring under the fuel distributor and it also is OK. Also noticed the fuels were totally dry as if she was not getting any fuel.
When the car is running it is not missing and pulls fantastic
Would appreciate any ideas of where to go next

HORNETS7

HAVE U DONE ANYTHING TO THE CAR BEFORE THIS PROBLEM OCCURED?

NEED MORE DETAILS OR DID IT JUST START TO DO IT ONE DAY?

SafeChav

Is the fuel system maintianing this pressure after the long period of time?

When you crank over does the flap bob up and down?

cossie604

iTrader: (2)

Possibly worn injectors seats as over time it loses fuel pressure and has to rebuild it before it will start again. Also check the cold start injector, these have caused me grief on both my S1 and my S2 escorts.

stevebyrne616

Hi thanks for all the help guys . In answer to your question the air sensing plate does not "bob up and down" when left. It does when started. have checked the electric supply to cold start valve and is present next step looks like pulling it out for a look. I appreciate all and any suggestions guys.
Thanks
Steve,

SafeChav

You might of read what i wrote wrong, the flap should never bob up and down when left. Its good that it does when cranking, would suggest and air leak if it didn't.

As above have u checked to see if fuel pressure is maintanied over night?

stevebyrne616

Hi not sure how to check that(the pressure). I know that every time I crank the car to start it the pump primes and does the same first thing in the morning when I turn the engine over, but that has been the "normal" since I have had the car. Thanks again for taking the time to reply...it is much appreciated...

Steve.

stevebyrne616

The air sensing flap does not move when cranking only when the car starts and I rev it .At this point it comes off its "stop" position which against the rubber stop positioned across the top, attached to a small bar. When ticking over it has moved approx 6mm of the stop.
Cheers
Steve.

SafeChav

What exactly are you doing to get it started then. When you crank over you should see the flap bob up and down very slightly, if it doesnt it sounds like an air leak.

Does it run/idle ok once its started? And have you got a boost/vacuum gauge?

stevebyrne616

To get it started I push the air flap down about 3 mm and turn the car over Once started I release the flap and it runs great

SafeChav

Ok, well personally to me it sounds like you have an air leak, when you crank the air being drawn in should move the flap in order to fuel into the cylinders. Does it idle by itself once you get it running? Im guessing not?

Bosch KE Jetronic IMO is the biggest pile of wank on the planet, too many things that can cause u problems, even things like not havin the dipstick in properly will cause it to run badly. On the early metering heads you can't even adjust the mixture properly because you create an air leak removing the screw to get in and adjust it. I've removed breather system on mine to eliminate the whole engine as a potential air leak.

Have you got a boost/vacuum gauge?

xr3iturbo

you say you have to push the plate down have u tryed it with filter on it and secure that causes vaume to suck the plate down =might well start

just a thought my erst would not run without filter

SafeChav

IMO the air filter should make no difference at all, if you've got a K&N on there they have a massive air flow increase, a standard airbox is a bit more restrictive but still shouldn't make a difference. Either way the air gets drawn in to push the flap down, but certainly give it a try definately nothing to lose

stevebyrne616

Hi guys I really do appreciate all you effort in getting my car started. The car when started ticks over without a problem. The boost gauge shows ok when going. The car is booked into a guy to try and sort it as everything I have tried has failed
Appreciate all you help and will let you know the result

Steve

SafeChav

sorry we cant help anymore

look forward to hearing what it is (always sumthin stupid isnt it )

stevebyrne616

Hi,
Well finally got the problem sorted...in fact there were 2 problems.
The cold start injector had a bad spray pattern and need cleaned.
The thermo timer switch(located in the water jacket) which sends information to the ECU was U/S and was not sending the signal to allow the cold start solenoid to work correctly(new one fitted).
When all this was done got it set up on rolling road and the fuelling sorted and got a print out of 184.99(flywheel) @6167 rpm and 150.7 bhp at wheels. Well pleased with 177.6 lb ft @4095 rpm.
Many thanks to Steve Gault for all his time and fantastic work.

Again thanks everyone for all your help

Steve

SafeChav

Just for your reference, probably what you have been told, but the Thermo Time Switch doesn't send signals to the ECU, its merely a thermostatic switch which cuts in and out every few seconds and operates the cold start injector while cranking.

Your RS has to be one of the few that actually starts with cold start valve connected Glad you got it sorted

stevebyrne616

Sorry you are right with regards the thermo timer switch. found a good article with regards the circuit. I must have picked the guy up wrong but appreciate the reply..

Steve