not starting
05-01-2006, 07:53 AM
#1
not starting
it wont start now
2wd saff cossie. turns over fine, there is fuel, and there appears to be a spark coming from the leads, cleaned all the plugs up. timing is all ok.
sorta sounds like there is no compression
any help wud be gratefully recieved as i had to drive my mums 1litre 3 cylinder corsa to the PF meet last not and i did not enjoy it in the slightest lol
cheers
2wd saff cossie. turns over fine, there is fuel, and there appears to be a spark coming from the leads, cleaned all the plugs up. timing is all ok.
sorta sounds like there is no compression
any help wud be gratefully recieved as i had to drive my mums 1litre 3 cylinder corsa to the PF meet last not and i did not enjoy it in the slightest lol
cheers
05-01-2006, 09:26 AM
#2
The info below has got me out of trouble before......enjoy.
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.
Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.
If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.
The pump is ok to run continuously
BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS by Simon @ SECS
NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)
1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.
Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.
If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.
The pump is ok to run continuously
06-01-2006, 10:42 PM
#4
PassionFord Post Troll
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have you actually compression tested it?? what has been done to it need a little backround like have you pulled it apart put it back together and now it wont start etc....
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