gaz3678

Here you go; war and peace :
Driving the car as per norm, all of a sudden it starts to misfire when i put my foot down too much. I stop, thinking the rotor arm may just want a qucik clean to remove the arc marks. Clean the rotor quickly then start it up, it idled and could be reved, as soon i pull away the engine cuts out.
All of a sudden whilst limping home it comes back to life - full throttle can be used, whereas i was unable to go past 3K rev's. Then as quickly as it had sorted itself it decided no to go past 3K, then 2K, finally not going at all, requiring the AA to tow me home.
After that it wouldn't start at all, then it did, again idling and revving happily off load, but as soon as i went to pull away again it cut out.
Since then the car won't start at all.
I've tried another ignition amp, still won't start.
Refitted my standard coil, wouldn't start.
Fitted my old phase sensor (replaced approx 12mths ago, did work but replaced it sooner than later). This let the car start and idle for a while. (fast idle, approx 1300RPM).
Removed standard coil and reconnected the GRP A one. Still starting and running.
Removed the coolant temp sensor, this caused the rev's to rise to nearer 2K.
Every time the engine is reved it died.
Battery has also been replaced proir to the sensor replacement, along with the alternator (AA chap suggested one of them wasn't working very well due to the volts dropping to about 12.7 with all the lights and stereo on) Turn's out the batt was not holding a full charge when tested by the supplier.
I had the ECU out and checked for any burning or blown components etc, all looks and smells ok.
My next step is metering the loom for continuity, but from what i have seen it would appear that the spark is not advancing enough or is too weak. A good spark at No 1 is almost always achieved, 2, 3 and 4 seem slightly less stable. Looked in the dark, leads appear to be all ok as there was no arcing apparant when cranking.
Both lobes on the dizzy and all 4 lobes on the crank pulley are there.
Auto electrician is due on sat, so any help or suggestions prior to his arrival will be greatly appreceated!!!!
The car is a 2wd saph, ahmed 330 chip, 909 leads, T34 and 803's. Engine has done 15K, rebuilt 18mths ago.

cossiegreg1

what about the fuel pump??

gaz3678

Had a go last night following the ECU test procedure from another post. The Phase sensor metered OK, but wasn't working and the map sensor was stuck reading 0.7V. Plugged in my old 2 bar sensor and it was working. Think a call to woodford for a new one will be todays priority!!!

JjCoDeX75

Just on phase sensor - I checked mine, and the condition of the leads on the phase sensor were just terrible - it can lead to earthing and I am told running very very lean. My advice is even if yours is working - order a new one and fit it, as my mechanic friend told me of a major story of woe relating to a failed phase sensor !

They are not dear, and easy to fix - (the one in the dissy under the arm) Also, I would note that the lead has to plug in the right way round, as the car wont start at all if you get it the wrong way round! I found this out the hard way!!!!

gaz3678

Cheers mate, the sensor insulation hasn't broken down yet, but it's being replaced for a new one as it was less than a year old- and it'll be free! Finally a result for the Cossie!

rssapphowner

mine did this found out the multi plug in the rear panel was corroded and once cut and resoldered spot on afterwards.

this is part of the fuel pump relay loom too which controls fuel pump ha ha before you say it lol. but check this cos its embarrasing breaking down in a cossie.

gaz3678

It's not too embarassing breaking down in the cossie. But it is embarassing being towed home in one - in rush hour.

barry0777

in had this prob it turn out to be the ingnition leads try that???????

Dave Henshall

does sound like a multiplug corrosion problem tbh, they are clipped to the top of the bulkhead above the rocker cover, spli them and see if the green ming has started in them, if it has, bbest bet is to chop the wires one by one and solder them directly through.