hi all im new to this site.
i have a problem with my 2wd cosworth engine i'l try and explain as best i can so here goes,
I took this engine out of another car and it was not running then as it did not have a fuel pump or alternator fitted so i could not test it before hand, i then fitted it to my shell which had the fuel pump already on it, anyway it turns over no probs but the fuel pump is not running and im not getting a spark at the plugs(i have linked the safety switch in the boot) i then put 12v on the fuel pump relay and the pump is running fine i then as a temp thing put 12v to the coil and i was getting a spark but still no joy. i tested both ecu and fuel pump relays and i had 12v in to both of them i think it was number 30 on the relays.i(I have bypassed the alarm and imob)
is there anything that could be causing both the coil and fuel pump to have no power maybe a sensor or somthing. any comments or advised would be very much appreciated.
thanks to all.wayne

 

your definately missing a 12v supplt to both of them?

if thats the case, sounds like there is a wiring fault somewhere.

I havent really played around with sierra's the ones i know like the back of my hand is escorts/orions. But manufactuers generally have patterns to the way things are wired. There could well be a fuse or relay gone, things like the coil are usually switched via a relay, so it could be a relay is burnt out, or possibly just a fuse popped?

Have you checked these yet? If not check these and get back to me?

 

Get a wiring diagram out.......

The Fuel pump power supplies some of the sensors such as ign amp and ICSV to name but a few, plus the injectors........

If you can get hold of a wiring diagram try tracing the circuit, plus have a look in the Tech essays section, there might be some documentation that'll help.......

Dont forget to double check fuses, i kow its a simple thing but sometimes a blown fuse doesn't look obvious.........

let us know how you get on.

 

have a look on here for the wiring diagrams - you need a permanent and a switched 12V feed to your relays.

http://www.siipicossu.com/manuaaleja/manuaalit.htm

 

ive checked all fuses and they are fine,
ive got a 12v supply to the fuel pump/ecu relays, where does the the switched supply come from. cheers guys

 

this may be of some use to you


Originally written/posted by Simon @ SECS.


BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)

Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.

Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.

If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.

The pump is ok to run continuously.

 

nice one mate i'l give that a go in the morning

 

silly question maybee but all earths are on and in proper positions my zetec with same simptoms would turn over but no spark of no pump just double check m8

hope u get it fixed

 

i done some checks this morning,
first off i checked for 12v at pin 20 on ecu got nothing so i put 12v onto it and still wouldnt start,
i then checked all the ohms readings on all the sensors and they were ok,
i then went back to the ecu relay and i had a 12v supply and a 12v switched suppy but the relay was not making contact, so im led to beleave the relay is knackerd maybe so is the fuel pump relay because that is still not working either

 

i tryed to putting 12v strait on the coil and checked for a spark at the plugs, there was a good spark there so i tryed it again but still wouldnt start

 

i put new ecu and fuel pump relays on today but made no differance at all still no power to pin 20 on the ecu
im ready to take a very large hammer and fix it properly

 

If you haven't got 12V to ECU pin 20, check to see if you've got 12V to the injectors - as per wiring diagram in link above.

If there is 12V at the injectors, then the wire to pin 20 has a break/bad connection. If there isn't 12V at the injectors, then either the relay is knackered, or the wiring to it is knackered.

There should be 12V permanently to relay pin 30, and a switched 12V to relay pin 86, which in turn should give you 12V at ECU pin 10.

 

send ur ecu to pj motorsport to be cheked i had same problem turned out fried ecu new 1 in started first time riped apart the hole loom for nothing