Any news Scott?

 

No mate, still very busy at work, ( 7 days a week now ) as soon as i get a chance i wil try what has been suggested.


FAO anyone else who might be of help.

please keep the ideas coming, the more possible solutions the better

 

Scott....does this help you any? Colour of the wires 'may' not correspond to your loom.

 

Does the ECU work in a car that was a known runner?

SW = Black
RT = Red
GE = Yellow
GN = Green

Check with a multimeter with resistance (ohms) preferably with a buzzer (buzzer will buzz if there is good continuety, if it doesn't buzz then ou know you have a problem). You need to check that the 2 signal wires are continuous and have no resistance in them. Also that the earth buzzes out for the module and the 2 wires to the ignition coil. Make sure you have 12v on the black yellow, the green wire should pulse (with a test lamp with everything connected, cranking over) to trigger a spark.

 

Just another thing.....

Try disconnecting your rev counter at the coil end just in case for some odd reason it is shorting the coil to earth... (one of the 2 green wires on the negative side, you will need to identify which one goes to the module and which goes to the rev counter..

 

OK daz, i will have a go. I have "buzz" tested them allready and they all seemed fine, the ECU did come out of a known runner but i may need to take it somewhere and try it on another car.

That Wiring diagram is the one i am using

 

If you're gonna check the ECU on a car that runs then check the module as well Scott.....

Let us know what happens..

 

Mayteee? Have you got the green tacho wire from the coswroth loom connected to the car loom?

 

also, do you get a single spark when you turn the ignition to the run position +2 on the key?

 

1, Have you got the green tacho wire from the coswroth loom connected to the car loom?

Yes

2, do you get a single spark when you turn the ignition to the run position +2 on the key

No

 

Try cuttin the tacho wire off at the coil Scott and see if you get a spark then....

 

Are both of your Relays clicking one just after the other

 

 

Pin check all of these on the legend!

 

Jano, i have the proper Weber marelli breakout sheet mate, which gives you all the values etc,

Cheers anyway though mate.

 

Scott, you have PM..

 

doesn't the cossie ecu have a diagnostic socket which puts out primitive pulses corresponding to any faulty sensors found?
sure i read that in the manual

 

Scott are both the relays clicking?

 

Yes it does have the Diagnostic sockets, but the car is not mobile, so cannot get it anywhere to plug it in.

Yes the relays are clicking, all earths work, all components are recieving correct info from ECU, the ECU is recieving the info back, its just that its not all working together

 

don't need it mobile, just a primitive test light as shown here....

http://www.homepages.hetnet.nl/~pete...ecu_error.html

might show something up? worth a try?

 

see you're from cambridge, just a trip up the a10 i have a 2 complete spare cossie systems, 2 spare ecu's and a working cossie you are welcome to try substituting your parts into if you wanted...
let me know if i can help
Stu

 

top offer from Stu

 

Sounds like a decent offer for you there Scott!

 

If you need anyone to have a look, my maytee lives close....ish i think. He fitted his system and might be able to help.

 

Jano, i know the guy who you are on about, ( gary ), and he had a few problems when his was fitted, he went back to Ian, who helped him sort it out.

I THINK i have sorted it now anyway just waiting for delivery of my new ignition amp, then i can see if its fixed

 

Hopefully.....

 

fingers crossed then mate..

 

Dont worry if it doesnt work i will soon be back on here to tell you all about it

Just wish Rich Pon @SCC could sort himself out, so that he can bloody send me my Ignition amp

 

I'm not a million miles away and wouldn't mind coming up if you need to borrow any cossie bits, mines half stripped for the respray so i'm not using/needing anything at the moment, i've got 2wd so if you wanna swap test bits give us a shout!

PJay

 

Oh and stu(The original) where you at mate, sound like your not a million miles away either!!

PJay

 

this might be useless but i had similar prob it was the ign switch live, i checked it with ign on and it was fine but when i tryed start it up it would not go, no spark it turned out to be when key turned on to start position it was loosing its feed so i changed it to another feed and bobs your uncle,it ran. might help.terry.

 

Terry i will have a look mate cheers


Thought i had found the problem gave it a go and........... still no spark, when i get a chance again, i will go back to basics and start from scratch. Its got to be something simple!!!!! well i hope it is lol

 

Maytee, I have sum setup info i give out with my conversions if it would be any help.

 

Jano, its worth a try mate, send it via PM if you like

 

Right, i have spent some time looking into the problem, i now have all correct voltages etc from every component except the crank sensor, well i do get a reading but its .020 volts, which aint enough to trigger fuck all, so is this because the air gap between the sensor and trigger, is too big or too small?? ( currently set to .70 thou, by the book anywhere between .60 and 1.00 should be enough)

thanks for helping people.

Cheers
scott

 

Scott,

I'm not as clued up on the cozy management as some of the other guys giving you advise but my mate had an identical problem with his when he changed to Cozy management.

The Cam sensor was not set in the correct position (out only a couple of degrees)and the ECU was not giving a spark because it thought every thing was out of sink (if that makes sence).
He had to get it all re-set and the Cam sensor bracket bent a little till it picked up correctly.

Let us know when you get it sorted.

Matt

 

Scott,
As you say, the nominal crank sensor gap is 1.0mm - a smaller gap (provided there DEFINITELY is a gap) will produce a progressively larger signal as the gap decreases.
But there should be no shortage of signal at 1mm gap. How are you measuring the signal? If you are using a multimeter, it will be difficult to get a meaningful reading, as the signal is short duration... The only useful way is to measure it with an oscilloscope..

If you are getting injection pulses then I believe it is fair to say you are getting a crank signal that the ECU recognises..

 

Scott, I assume you have tested it by....

Taking it off and cliping on the multimeter and set it to AC volts. Then flashing a spanner back and forth over the sensor end to trigger the sensor....(the faster you do it the greater the AC voltage will be)...?

Cossies don't have cam sensors mate...

 

hmmm cheers guys, i will have another look tomorrow??

Daz, i think matt is on about the disc that people use instead of the hybrid dizzy and phase sensor, basically it sits behind the cam pulley and has two lugs on it then use a crank sensor lead as the pick up. I personnaly dont like them BUT gadget and jano both use them and rate them so each to there own???


Rich, what i was registering was the voltage back at the ECU with a multimeter, according to the breakout sheet by weber marelli, it says that i should be seeing a voltage of .25 when cranking from T3(ecu) and nbv at T4 (ecu), and all i can get is a fluctuating figure of .020 out of T3????

I was told that i could be because the gap is too small or too big, either the magnetic field is being bounced (from too small a gap) or its too big so that it cant register the mass at all.
OR i did wonder if i had enough mass of metal passing the sensor anyway, i have welded four lugs to the pulley wheel, each lug has approx 5mm sq top, and sits pround of the pulley by approx 5mm aswell. Then the bottom of each lug is tappered off to the center of the pulley. I would have thought that this would be enough, or should i get a universal trigger ring and bolt it to the face of the pulley???

 

the targets sound fine Scott - each lug needs to be a minimum of the same width as the pole piece that protrudes from the front of the sensor (same width is fine) and at least as deep as the pole piece diameter. Sounds like yours are ideal....
Presumably you are measuring the crank signal with a multimeter on 'AC Volts' range?
Back later when I've got more time...