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Bearing carrier to strut fittment strengthening?

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Old 24-06-2005 | 11:03 PM
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Default Bearing carrier to strut fittment strengthening?

As some people know I just bent another Bilstein strut last weekend. As this is not the first time I started to think about possible remedies for this.

I would like to hear opinions if this could work.


Now I will try to explain.

Lets start with a photo:




Here is the strut and bearing carrier. The strut is inside the carrier for about 3cm, something like that. There is about 2-3 more cm over it before mounts for ABS cables and original brake line. Therefore I wonder if it wouldn't be reasonable to weld a cilindrical piece of metal on top of the bearing carier withe the same internal diameter so that strut would be held by longer part of it.

Two struts I bent where bent just underneath the place where they are fitted.


Anybody had similar problems? Tried things like that? Am I mad?


Thx for all comments.
Old 25-06-2005 | 10:10 AM
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if you did that would you still be able to remove or fit the strut into the carrier without dropping the whole suspension down? ps, someones knicked your driveshaft
Old 25-06-2005 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
if you did that would you still be able to remove or fit the strut into the carrier without dropping the whole suspension down?
Well it wouldn't be much of a difference. I need to remove TCA ball joint and driveshaft first so then I have as much movement down as you want.

ps, someones knicked your driveshaft
Hehe, as far as I remember this photo was made with no gearbox in, but where are the driveshafts? I rememebr one being repaired, maybe this is the one.
Old 25-06-2005 | 03:43 PM
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A strut isn't suposed to just bend is it?
Sounds like something isn't lined up right too me.
Any pics of the broken struts?
Do you have a strut-brace across the two strut-towers?

Good luck
Old 25-06-2005 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tombra
A strut isn't suposed to just bend is it?
Roads aren't supposed to look like over here...

Sounds like something isn't lined up right too me.
What do you suggest?

Any pics of the broken struts?
Don't have any, anyway they just crush tothe inside where they sit inside the bearing carrier.

Do you have a strut-brace across the two strut-towers?
Yep. But what that has to do with it?

Good luck
Thx. I think I need it.
Old 25-06-2005 | 04:56 PM
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Could you use wheels with a bigger offset to decrease the bending load ?

Or use coilovers if the strut bodies are thicker ?
Old 25-06-2005 | 06:02 PM
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i cant see any problem with with modifing it.

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Old 25-06-2005 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jon@work
Could you use wheels with a bigger offset to decrease the bending load ?
I have standard Escos wheels.


Or use coilovers if the strut bodies are thicker ?
I think about that. Wanted coil-overs anyway. Still have dilema which ones and why :-/
Old 25-06-2005 | 10:18 PM
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how about welding wedges onto the outside of the tube just above the hub, like Bilstein did on Mk2 Escort World Cup struts?
Old 25-06-2005 | 10:30 PM
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I don't fully understand your idea but I would be worried to weld anything to strut which has high pressure gas shock absorber in it. Unfortunately of the shelf Billies are not servicable so I can't just remove it.
Old 26-06-2005 | 01:43 PM
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Hi Guys ..

Well I see several problems doing it! ...

1. The Carrier is undoubtedly cast .. When we built the cars, I dont think we would have used anything too special here .. The carriers are the same as Cossie Sapphire x4. Anyone good at welding steel to cast? The result will not be good or strong enough, and apart from the extra weight, I dont thing will add much to the overall strength of the assy. as a whole. Cast weld repairs are a very specialised job, and not many will guarantee it. Usually, the parent material has to be heated in an oven and welded very hot. If not done properly, it will fracture quite easily.

2. You are clamping the carrier to a (not very thick-walled) tube. If you increase the clamp/contact area, you will just move the weakest point further up the strut.

3. What you may do is transfer the loads into the bodyshell ... Would you rather bend the strut tube ... ? Or the shell ?

4. I think the only answer would be a redesign, but I dont think much can be gained!

Cheers Az ....
Old 26-06-2005 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Al Bags
2. You are clamping the carrier to a (not very thick-walled) tube. If you increase the clamp/contact area, you will just move the weakest point further up the strut.
The problem is the whole tube doesn't bend (e.g. end of the strut is on it's place) it rather crushes to the inside so the carreir becomes loose. That's why I though about having it clamp on longer part, but now I feel convinced it's quite complex matter and not in my reach. Maybe I just go for different dampers -> coil-overs. Don't know which ones to choose though :-(



3. What you may do is transfer the loads into the bodyshell ... Would you rather bend the strut tube ... ? Or the shell ?
I am pretty sure there still was suspention travel when it bend.


Cheers Az ....
Cheers mate...
Old 26-06-2005 | 10:58 PM
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i think i know what you mean m8, the strut actually sort of bends on the bit thats sat in the hub carrier ? so when you remove teh strut , the lower part in kinked at teh inner part at the bottom does that make sence ?

i did it with a bilstein coil over when i hit a large obstruction with my n/s wheel , gave me mega camber !! , just roataed the strut and adjusted the bottom arms and finished the rally !!

but then i moved from the 2wd 46mm struts to what you have the 50mm bodies , never had any probs since even in the forrest, i think you need decent bodies not roadgoing stuff m8
Old 27-06-2005 | 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by markk
i think i know what you mean m8, the strut actually sort of bends on the bit thats sat in the hub carrier ? so when you remove the strut , the lower part in kinked at the inner part at the bottom does that make sence ?
Yep exactly that. And the carrier starts to move about so it destroys it even further.



i did it with a bilstein coil over when i hit a large obstruction with my n/s wheel , gave me mega camber !! , just roataed the strut and adjusted the bottom arms and finished the rally !!
Well I did finish the rally too, I just was mega slow on right-handers :-(

but then i moved from the 2wd 46mm struts to what you have the 50mm bodies , never had any probs since even in the forrest, i think you need decent bodies not roadgoing stuff m8
I think I will go coil-overs route if I can get enough money. New carrier I get from Tim Finch, just need to decide about new struts :-/ Cant afford Proflex and that kind, and I would lke to have something fully adjustable if I need to pay so much money so I don't like H&R which is very expensive and it generally just Bilstein insert in coilover body.

NUT RuS said good things about new kind of AVOs, and cossymad says he reccomends GAZ but can I be sure about those?



By the way - do you have some pics of your rear turrents? I am wondering how to make them stronger (any other suspention mounts I schould take care about?
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