Bearing carrier to strut fittment strengthening?
#1
Bearing carrier to strut fittment strengthening?
As some people know I just bent another Bilstein strut last weekend. As this is not the first time I started to think about possible remedies for this.
I would like to hear opinions if this could work.
Now I will try to explain.
Lets start with a photo:
Here is the strut and bearing carrier. The strut is inside the carrier for about 3cm, something like that. There is about 2-3 more cm over it before mounts for ABS cables and original brake line. Therefore I wonder if it wouldn't be reasonable to weld a cilindrical piece of metal on top of the bearing carier withe the same internal diameter so that strut would be held by longer part of it.
Two struts I bent where bent just underneath the place where they are fitted.
Anybody had similar problems? Tried things like that? Am I mad?
Thx for all comments.
I would like to hear opinions if this could work.
Now I will try to explain.
Lets start with a photo:
Here is the strut and bearing carrier. The strut is inside the carrier for about 3cm, something like that. There is about 2-3 more cm over it before mounts for ABS cables and original brake line. Therefore I wonder if it wouldn't be reasonable to weld a cilindrical piece of metal on top of the bearing carier withe the same internal diameter so that strut would be held by longer part of it.
Two struts I bent where bent just underneath the place where they are fitted.
Anybody had similar problems? Tried things like that? Am I mad?
Thx for all comments.
#3
Originally Posted by THE RADMAN
if you did that would you still be able to remove or fit the strut into the carrier without dropping the whole suspension down?
ps, someones knicked your driveshaft
#5
Originally Posted by Tombra
A strut isn't suposed to just bend is it?
Sounds like something isn't lined up right too me.
Any pics of the broken struts?
Do you have a strut-brace across the two strut-towers?
Good luck
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#8
Originally Posted by jon@work
Could you use wheels with a bigger offset to decrease the bending load ?
Or use coilovers if the strut bodies are thicker ?
#10
I don't fully understand your idea but I would be worried to weld anything to strut which has high pressure gas shock absorber in it. Unfortunately of the shelf Billies are not servicable so I can't just remove it.
#11
Advanced PassionFord User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,761
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From: In my GTR Skyline as often as poss ; )
Hi Guys ..
Well I see several problems doing it! ...
1. The Carrier is undoubtedly cast .. When we built the cars, I dont think we would have used anything too special here .. The carriers are the same as Cossie Sapphire x4. Anyone good at welding steel to cast? The result will not be good or strong enough, and apart from the extra weight, I dont thing will add much to the overall strength of the assy. as a whole. Cast weld repairs are a very specialised job, and not many will guarantee it. Usually, the parent material has to be heated in an oven and welded very hot. If not done properly, it will fracture quite easily.
2. You are clamping the carrier to a (not very thick-walled) tube. If you increase the clamp/contact area, you will just move the weakest point further up the strut.
3. What you may do is transfer the loads into the bodyshell ... Would you rather bend the strut tube ... ? Or the shell ?
4. I think the only answer would be a redesign, but I dont think much can be gained!
Cheers Az ....
Well I see several problems doing it! ...
1. The Carrier is undoubtedly cast .. When we built the cars, I dont think we would have used anything too special here .. The carriers are the same as Cossie Sapphire x4. Anyone good at welding steel to cast? The result will not be good or strong enough, and apart from the extra weight, I dont thing will add much to the overall strength of the assy. as a whole. Cast weld repairs are a very specialised job, and not many will guarantee it. Usually, the parent material has to be heated in an oven and welded very hot. If not done properly, it will fracture quite easily.
2. You are clamping the carrier to a (not very thick-walled) tube. If you increase the clamp/contact area, you will just move the weakest point further up the strut.
3. What you may do is transfer the loads into the bodyshell ... Would you rather bend the strut tube ... ? Or the shell ?
4. I think the only answer would be a redesign, but I dont think much can be gained!
Cheers Az ....
#12
Originally Posted by Al Bags
2. You are clamping the carrier to a (not very thick-walled) tube. If you increase the clamp/contact area, you will just move the weakest point further up the strut.
3. What you may do is transfer the loads into the bodyshell ... Would you rather bend the strut tube ... ? Or the shell ?
Cheers Az ....
#13
i think i know what you mean m8, the strut actually sort of bends on the bit thats sat in the hub carrier ? so when you remove teh strut , the lower part in kinked at teh inner part at the bottom does that make sence ?
i did it with a bilstein coil over when i hit a large obstruction with my n/s wheel , gave me mega camber !! , just roataed the strut and adjusted the bottom arms and finished the rally !!
but then i moved from the 2wd 46mm struts to what you have the 50mm bodies , never had any probs since even in the forrest, i think you need decent bodies not roadgoing stuff m8
i did it with a bilstein coil over when i hit a large obstruction with my n/s wheel , gave me mega camber !! , just roataed the strut and adjusted the bottom arms and finished the rally !!
but then i moved from the 2wd 46mm struts to what you have the 50mm bodies , never had any probs since even in the forrest, i think you need decent bodies not roadgoing stuff m8
#14
Originally Posted by markk
i think i know what you mean m8, the strut actually sort of bends on the bit thats sat in the hub carrier ? so when you remove the strut , the lower part in kinked at the inner part at the bottom does that make sence ?
i did it with a bilstein coil over when i hit a large obstruction with my n/s wheel , gave me mega camber !! , just roataed the strut and adjusted the bottom arms and finished the rally !!
but then i moved from the 2wd 46mm struts to what you have the 50mm bodies , never had any probs since even in the forrest, i think you need decent bodies not roadgoing stuff m8
NUT RuS said good things about new kind of AVOs, and cossymad says he reccomends GAZ but can I be sure about those?
By the way - do you have some pics of your rear turrents? I am wondering how to make them stronger (any other suspention mounts I schould take care about?
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