Escort 1.6 16v Zetec - ? immobilister problem
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Escort 1.6 16v Zetec - ? immobilister problem
Hi all,
This is my first post on this forum, and being a woman, I could do with a bit of advise (in simplest form possible!). It's quite a long story, so you may have to bear with me for a little while.
I inherited a Ford Escort Masquerade 1.6 16v zetec from my father-in-law some years ago (9ish) which has been stored and not driven for the best part of this time, other than moving it from the garage to a hard standing. Given the rising cost of petrol and decreasing size of my family, I now want to get this car back on the road to save fuel costs. It has been started over this period for the purpose of moving around on our property. However, it will now not start, but does turn over.
I have fitted a new battery and spark plugs, there is a spark and the engine turns over but does not fire. If fuel is poured into what I believe to be the throttle body, the engine will run until fuel is used.
I have no interior light, no clock, no radio and no illumination on the red light under the clock which I am informed is the immobiliser. Also, I can't hear any sound from the fuel pump when turning the ignition.
I have checked all fuses and those in main box by battery and all seem OK. However, when I turn the ignition, I do hear a very faint click from inside the steering column. Wondering if this is an immobiliser problem or electrical problem, and if so, how do I get around this?
Getting desperate now, as spending hard earned cash running a 3l shogun when I could be spending money on my lovely Escort!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
This is my first post on this forum, and being a woman, I could do with a bit of advise (in simplest form possible!). It's quite a long story, so you may have to bear with me for a little while.
I inherited a Ford Escort Masquerade 1.6 16v zetec from my father-in-law some years ago (9ish) which has been stored and not driven for the best part of this time, other than moving it from the garage to a hard standing. Given the rising cost of petrol and decreasing size of my family, I now want to get this car back on the road to save fuel costs. It has been started over this period for the purpose of moving around on our property. However, it will now not start, but does turn over.
I have fitted a new battery and spark plugs, there is a spark and the engine turns over but does not fire. If fuel is poured into what I believe to be the throttle body, the engine will run until fuel is used.
I have no interior light, no clock, no radio and no illumination on the red light under the clock which I am informed is the immobiliser. Also, I can't hear any sound from the fuel pump when turning the ignition.
I have checked all fuses and those in main box by battery and all seem OK. However, when I turn the ignition, I do hear a very faint click from inside the steering column. Wondering if this is an immobiliser problem or electrical problem, and if so, how do I get around this?
Getting desperate now, as spending hard earned cash running a 3l shogun when I could be spending money on my lovely Escort!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
#2
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
The reason the car doesn't run is that the fuel pump doesn't work.
That may be down to the electrical problem since you also have no interior light etc.
After 9 years the fuel in the tank can't be called fuel anymore.
You would need to drain it, maybe clear it of rubbish and refill with fresh fuel.
Also the fuel pump may need cleaning and the fuel filter must be replaced.
No more electrical problems? Head lights, windscreen wipers, turning lights?
That may be down to the electrical problem since you also have no interior light etc.
After 9 years the fuel in the tank can't be called fuel anymore.
You would need to drain it, maybe clear it of rubbish and refill with fresh fuel.
Also the fuel pump may need cleaning and the fuel filter must be replaced.
No more electrical problems? Head lights, windscreen wipers, turning lights?
#3
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Thanks for your reply.
All other electrics work, windows, wipers etc. Have put a gallon of fresh fuel in the tank and was empty anyway. If it's left to stand for a couple of days, it does attempt to start, but I'm assuming this is only from fuel that has made it through due to pressure in system?
Seems odd that the immobiliser light is totally inactive though as all advice I've read, says it should be flashing or something?
All other electrics work, windows, wipers etc. Have put a gallon of fresh fuel in the tank and was empty anyway. If it's left to stand for a couple of days, it does attempt to start, but I'm assuming this is only from fuel that has made it through due to pressure in system?
Seems odd that the immobiliser light is totally inactive though as all advice I've read, says it should be flashing or something?
#5
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Don't think so yet. Engine runs when you poor petrol in to it.
That means (most of) the ecu is working, you have spark, etc.
You just don't have a working fuel pump / fuel pump relay.
Maybe the inertia switch has tripped, but given your description that is not likely.
You could try a seperate lead from the battery to the fuel pump. Maybe it will run then.
Have you checked if 12 volt is present at the fuel pump?
That means (most of) the ecu is working, you have spark, etc.
You just don't have a working fuel pump / fuel pump relay.
Maybe the inertia switch has tripped, but given your description that is not likely.
You could try a seperate lead from the battery to the fuel pump. Maybe it will run then.
Have you checked if 12 volt is present at the fuel pump?
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Have checked interita switch and that's OK. Not tried running wire to fuel pump as this is inside tank, under back seat and may be a bit over my head? Where would I locate the fuel pump relay?
Thanks for help so far.
Thanks for help so far.
#7
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Somewhere under the back seat there will be a connector between wiring loom and pump.
Nice place to measure or connect a 12 volt feed and a ground.
Don't have specifics of this car at hand. So I hope somebody else can tell you where the fuel pump relay (and maybe fuse) is.
Nice place to measure or connect a 12 volt feed and a ground.
Don't have specifics of this car at hand. So I hope somebody else can tell you where the fuel pump relay (and maybe fuse) is.
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Have had a guy look at it tonight and he reckons its the fusebox that is shot. Does this sound right?
He spray quick start in air intake and it ran as long as he sprayed fluid in.
He spray quick start in air intake and it ran as long as he sprayed fluid in.
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Well, having purchased a replacement fusebox, with the exact part number, I still have exactly the same problem (and 3 broken nails and various scrapped knuckles)! Also now have no central locking. Have given myself a headache trying to work out what is going on with this and keep coming back to immobiliser.... I have red master key, but that has been subject to some heat damage so I'm wondering if this is the issue and not cancelling immobiliser controlling fuel pump etc. However, the guy who came to see it last week, sprayed quickstart into air intake and the car started and ran as long as he continued to spray fluid in.
Can anybody help a poor exasperated woman??
Can anybody help a poor exasperated woman??
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Hi all,
This is my first post on this forum, and being a woman, I could do with a bit of advise (in simplest form possible!). It's quite a long story, so you may have to bear with me for a little while.
I inherited a Ford Escort Masquerade 1.6 16v zetec from my father-in-law some years ago (9ish) which has been stored and not driven for the best part of this time, other than moving it from the garage to a hard standing. Given the rising cost of petrol and decreasing size of my family, I now want to get this car back on the road to save fuel costs. It has been started over this period for the purpose of moving around on our property. However, it will now not start, but does turn over.
I have fitted a new battery and spark plugs, there is a spark and the engine turns over but does not fire. If fuel is poured into what I believe to be the throttle body, the engine will run until fuel is used.
I have no interior light, no clock, no radio and no illumination on the red light under the clock which I am informed is the immobiliser. Also, I can't hear any sound from the fuel pump when turning the ignition.
I have checked all fuses and those in main box by battery and all seem OK. However, when I turn the ignition, I do hear a very faint click from inside the steering column. Wondering if this is an immobiliser problem or electrical problem, and if so, how do I get around this?
Getting desperate now, as spending hard earned cash running a 3l shogun when I could be spending money on my lovely Escort!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
This is my first post on this forum, and being a woman, I could do with a bit of advise (in simplest form possible!). It's quite a long story, so you may have to bear with me for a little while.
I inherited a Ford Escort Masquerade 1.6 16v zetec from my father-in-law some years ago (9ish) which has been stored and not driven for the best part of this time, other than moving it from the garage to a hard standing. Given the rising cost of petrol and decreasing size of my family, I now want to get this car back on the road to save fuel costs. It has been started over this period for the purpose of moving around on our property. However, it will now not start, but does turn over.
I have fitted a new battery and spark plugs, there is a spark and the engine turns over but does not fire. If fuel is poured into what I believe to be the throttle body, the engine will run until fuel is used.
I have no interior light, no clock, no radio and no illumination on the red light under the clock which I am informed is the immobiliser. Also, I can't hear any sound from the fuel pump when turning the ignition.
I have checked all fuses and those in main box by battery and all seem OK. However, when I turn the ignition, I do hear a very faint click from inside the steering column. Wondering if this is an immobiliser problem or electrical problem, and if so, how do I get around this?
Getting desperate now, as spending hard earned cash running a 3l shogun when I could be spending money on my lovely Escort!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
The faint click you are hearing on turning the key is the ignition switch turning. This is normal.
It doesnt sound like a Immobiliser fault to me as the PATS on fords inhibits the starter, Fuel pump and coil pack. You have 2 of those so I would hazard a guess and check the fuel pump relays and the pump itself. It could have siezed up.
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whilst turning the engine over get someone to bang the fuel pump with a spanner or something. I've done this before on a fuel pump that was on the way out / sticking/ siezed
Last edited by dombloke; 09-04-2012 at 03:43 PM.
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Thanks for that advise. Have felt like hitting the car with a hammer on various occasions over the last couple of weeks!
To top it all, just had a guy knock my door asking "is the escort for sale?" -- No, if it was it would have a big sign on the front reading "For Sale!", now kindly remove yourself from my doorstep! lol
Anyway thanks for your very kind advise and I'll try that next time I'm tampering. Big dilema now is whether to replace original fuse box or keep the replacement one in. I have a 3 month guarantee on replacement one but I suppose I could always flog it on 3bay!
Will let you know if I have any luck x
To top it all, just had a guy knock my door asking "is the escort for sale?" -- No, if it was it would have a big sign on the front reading "For Sale!", now kindly remove yourself from my doorstep! lol
Anyway thanks for your very kind advise and I'll try that next time I'm tampering. Big dilema now is whether to replace original fuse box or keep the replacement one in. I have a 3 month guarantee on replacement one but I suppose I could always flog it on 3bay!
Will let you know if I have any luck x
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OK. Progress. I now have all interior stuff working and central locking! yay! However, still no start! Have tried bashing fuel pump through small hole under back seat but no change. Would now like to know where the fuel pump relay is so that I can check this before attempting to replace the fuel pump?
#14
PassionFord Post Whore!!
First brown relay from left on the first row
Relay 6 on this (turn the diagram 90 deg clockwise to match photo.)
Last edited by GVK.; 11-04-2012 at 07:01 PM.
#15
PassionFord Post Whore!!
If you can access the fuel inertia switch and have the means to check voltage (voltmeter/test light) make sure you have voltage at the inertia switch (both wires), this will check the fuel pump relay output.
Fuse 33 20amp for fuel pump (bottom left of fuses)
Fuse 33 20amp for fuel pump (bottom left of fuses)
Last edited by GVK.; 11-04-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Thank you so much for your help! I've searched the net for a plan like that! I will check this relay and fuse for sure tomorrow. Maybe I'll swap the fuel relay from the old fusebox and check that first. May need to borrow some equipment to check the voltage though. If worst comes to worst, how easy/difficult is it to change fuel pump?
#17
st170 breaking
check all eyes are connected to the battery, its easy to leave one off
if you put some pics up of the car ill give you ideas to stop the immobilise being a problem
not things jo smo from co camo should know
if you put some pics up of the car ill give you ideas to stop the immobilise being a problem
not things jo smo from co camo should know
#19
st170 breaking
yeah the immobilser doesnt control the fuel pump does it huh!!
oh yeah it does and if bridged it makes sure that the circuit or immob aint fooked
(pats means wires are hard to idenitify)
need to know if the dash lights come on too
once the fuel pump is working on a constant feed you can uncouple the fuel rail to get all the old shitty fuel into a container then start over with some fresh
Last edited by 1.9 xr2 on 40's; 11-04-2012 at 08:24 PM.
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Thanks peeps! I get all lights on dashboard. Can hear a faint "tick" from within steering column though when key left in position II. Don't think there are any eyes missing from battery but will thoroughly check tomorrow in daylight. Escort Masquerade 1.6 16v zetec (1997 reg, but part no of fusebox was 96 if this means anything).
Hope that helps x
Don't have any pics, but car is
Hope that helps x
Don't have any pics, but car is
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there is no light on by clock, but not sure there ever has been. F-i-L had a Sparkright alarm fitted when he bought the car, which he then deactivated I believe. Assuming he had the original one disconnected when he had the replacement installed?? But as he has now passed away, I can't confirm this for sure unfortunately. What a minefield!!
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there is no light on by clock, but not sure there ever has been. F-i-L had a Sparkright alarm fitted when he bought the car, which he then deactivated I believe. Assuming he had the original one disconnected when he had the replacement installed?? But as he has now passed away, I can't confirm this for sure unfortunately. What a minefield!!
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Not sure. I'll have to check whilst I've got dash panel off as "Spark-rite" box is still there with 2 wires leaving it. No siren still attached though as he removed this as it annoyed him! lol
Will let you know whe I've checked x
Will let you know whe I've checked x
#26
I had the same issue as OP started however fuel pump is priming had spark and everything engine turns but wont fire. Started pulling fuses to see. Now fuel pump and dash lights wont switch off even with the key out and in my hand.
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