Hi ... can anyone explain to me what "clutch drag" is ?? and what the symptoms are .... and how to solve this problem if thats the problem. :-/

 

Anyone ..... :-/

 

The name would suggest it's when the clutch is not fully disengaging when it should hence it's dragging, in which case symptoms would be difficulty engaging gear, and in theory "Creeping"?

Martin

 

Ok (not sure I understand the word "Creeping") .. seem about rigth. It's not easy to get in gear, especially when trying to do it fast ... so would that be clutch problems, and why ?? .. or are there other posibillities ???

 

Not really I mean if it won't engage it would suggest the engine is not disconnected from the transmission, i.e. clutch not doing it's job properly!

I guess it's fine with the engine switched off?

By "creeping" I mean a slight pulling when coming to a stop, like there is a "bite" still.

Martin

 

yes it's fine when engine is off.... and I have not felt any "Creeping" .. yet

 

So the solution will be to put the box on the floor ...and look for ...what ?? Anyone had this problem and if so what did you do to solve the problem ?

Please advice

 

car /engine?

 

I imagine you will find no grease on the input shaft of the gearbox when you remove it. Therefore the friction plate doesn't slide away from the flywheel easily/quick enough.

Matt

 

Not quite sure what you mean here ?

 

Well I'll find out as I've decided to put box on the floor first thing in the new year

 

Im presuming its a 2wd Sapphire??

Is the clutch ratchet adjusted correctly?? I had a Sapph that was notchy to get into gears and would not change fast while moving, all it needed was the ratched adjusting another couple of clicks and it was totally fine. they are supposed to be self adjusting but I have come across a few that needed doing manually.

 

Yes .. its a 2wd Sapp.

So adjusting manually .... how do I do this ??

 

You'll need a mate to help you. The way I used to do it is get the car up so you can get in under it with a bar. One person fully press the clutch, once the clutch is down and held on the floor then the other person needs to get under the car and get a bar in to hold the clutch arm in the position it is in when pressed. Once the arm is held in place then the person in the car slowly brings the pedal back up. As the pedal comes back up it will get to a point then start to click. The clicking is the ratched adjusting. Let it click twice then press the pedal back to the floor. Remove bar and give the car a drive to see if its made any difference. Repeat as needed.

If you adjust it too far then give the pedal an upwars tug and it should effectively reset the ratchet mech, press the pedal a couple of times and it'll self adjust to where it was before you started.

Worth a try before you pull the gearbox out.

 

Thanks .. i'll try that first

 

Good advice there,failing that the pressure plate may be no good.Do you get any clutch judder if pulling away slowly ? I had everything with my last one,judder at slow pull offs,ratchet adjusting itself all the time when driving hard (worn) and some times drag.The bloody thing would not slip though

 

Well There are some judder, but I take that it should be there as its a Alcon 6 paddle...íts done 10-12000km so I hope that there are some miles yet before it's worn ..??

 

A bit late ... but I finally came around to try this ...and it seems that it has done the job ...feels alot better now .. so ..

 

Well ..still a problem ... car is quite difficult to get in gear .. example .. when stopping at a light and tryning to engage 1'st .. it's most time impossible to to do it without trying other gears first ... hopefully it's the clutch and not the box ...????

 

OK I have this issue on the Escort converted to RWD using the T5 and a AP 6 paddle clutch.

When your next in the car and it does this, put a bit of pressure on the gea stick pushing towards 1st gear, not a massive amount but enough that would normally select, then give the throttle a blip, just over 2000 rpm should do it, if this allows it to slot in then your looking at a thrust bearing

You could also try stopping the car, hand brake on, putting in 4th, let the clutch out slowly and give it some revs, try and hold it around 2000 to 2500rpm and when the clutch comes outgive it some more beans to try and stop it from stalling (make sure you have a good handbrake) this will do two things, 1 will tell you if the clutch is slipping as it will rev up with the clutch out and 2 while your slipping the clutch it should spin the clutch on the pressure plate and remove any oil etc between the two. Do not do this for a long period, I was advised no more than 5 seconds as you could burn the clutch out.

Slipping the clutch worked on mine for a bit but it is coming back slightly, not as bad. I rev mine and it slides in to gear now so the thrust bearing might need doing.

I was told out right it was the clutch but I didnt think this was the case, mine did around 7000 miles on the clutch and never slipped abit running alot of boost

 

Ok I'll look into it tomorrow .. and just to be sure ...thrust bearing .. witch one is that

 

Thrust bearing / throw out bearing is the bearing mounted on your clutch fork which is pushing on the pressure plate as it rotates and you pushing the pedal; hence thrust bearing.

That depends on how good flywheel condition was prior to install of the new clutch.

I do a lot of work on T5 / TKO transmissions and the problem you are having tells me its most likely the clutch not disengaging properly. If it was the gearbox then it would make grinding noises as the selector trying to engage gear but is not able to syncro (worn syncros).

My GFs BMW just experienced this juddering and the thrust bearing / throw out bearing was totally worn out. This made the pedal judder.

I ran the Alcon 6 paddle for 3 years before now making a total driveline change; it should not judder your clutch pedal. Actually the Alcon should feel just like a normal Toyota clutch.

 

Ahh...I know

Well the clutch feel is as in my Focus., so that part is ok ... but yes it feels like it's not disengaging properly .. and you say that it could be as simple as a worn thrust bearing ???

I tried to put a bit of pressure on the gear stick pushing towards 1st gear, , then give the throttle a blip, and it seem to be as you described earlier .. it went into gear

So thrust bearing ......maybe

 

I was told if it goes in once you rev it, that is the sign of a warn thrust bearing

 

Ok .. I've just put it in the garage for the vinter ... I will pull the box and have a look at the clutch, bearing and and all other parts involved .. and hopefully be back with a answer and a big smile

 

where is the biting point on the pedal near top or bottom?

if it has wrong ratchet set fitted then pedal to fork movement will be limited,
i think cosworth is white?

 

Well it bites quite high ... and the ratchet is white ... and I have never changed it ...I've had the car since 1995, and at that time it had done 160000km .. today it's around 340000km if I remember correct

 

Hi.... just a little update .. just got the box on the floor..and I found this :










Could this be the problem (it only seems to be surface rust, ...) ?? .. and how can I avoid it in the future ???

Also .. does the plate look ok or is it time for a change (its a Alcon setup)

 

As I mentioned above...lack of grease on that shaft. You need to apply copper grease to the shaft. Will lubricate it, and stop any rust forming.

Matt.

 

Thanks .. I will grease it up ofcource , but it's stange, as I was quite sure that I did put some grease on when I changed to the Alcon one .. but could be that I'm getting old

any chance that you can tell me if the plate looks very worn and not worth fitting again ?

 

hi .. can anyone tell me if the plate/disk seems to worn to reuse ... or ???