hi all new member
i just bought a st170 on a 53 plate 4dr hatch iv wanted one of these for an absolute age. and finnaly got over the insurance problem (insurane group 18) as i was using a 08 plate mondeo diesel for the past 2 years.
but am so disapointed the car is making a constant ticking noise.
ive been told it could be,
the inlet manifold flaps..
the shims..
the lifters..
so as i am wanting this car to work and doing it for the car as im never getting rid waiting over 6 years to buy one, so you can imagine my disapointment, i went and bought lifters shims and rocker gaskets and exhaust gaskets as well as head stretch bolts.
how do i change them. i used to be a saab tech (auto electrician) before going into engineering and i have desent machanical sense but can't find anywhere on how to do this job as there is no haynes book for it or anything online.
does anyone know of any how too's or pics of what to do, also ford said i dont need to drain the oil but do need to take it off the engine mount. that is exactly what they said.
thank you would not be enough but please does anyone have any idea as to do. thansk again all.
but am so disapointed the car is making a constant ticking noise.
ive been told it could be,
the inlet manifold flaps..
the shims..
the lifters..
so as i am wanting this car to work and doing it for the car as im never getting rid waiting over 6 years to buy one, so you can imagine my disapointment, i went and bought lifters shims and rocker gaskets and exhaust gaskets as well as head stretch bolts.
how do i change them. i used to be a saab tech (auto electrician) before going into engineering and i have desent machanical sense but can't find anywhere on how to do this job as there is no haynes book for it or anything online.
does anyone know of any how too's or pics of what to do, also ford said i dont need to drain the oil but do need to take it off the engine mount. that is exactly what they said.
thank you would not be enough but please does anyone have any idea as to do. thansk again all.
Last edited by jack2003; Jun 5, 2011 at 01:00 PM. Reason: forgot to put it in
On an ST170 the shim is the follower unless someones done away with that like we did. So if the clearances are too big you need to buy a thicker follower.
Take the cam cover off, check the clearances using feeler gauges (To check a clearance make sure the lobe of the cam is pointing upwards on the clearance you're checking) Compare them with what they're supposed to be. If some of them are out, take the timing belt off and cams out, take the follower out using a magnet (a clean one) and measure it with a micrometer, record your result and then say the clearance is 0.15 and it's supposed to be 0.20 you take 0.05 off the follower size and you have got a rough size.
Take the cam cover off, check the clearances using feeler gauges (To check a clearance make sure the lobe of the cam is pointing upwards on the clearance you're checking) Compare them with what they're supposed to be. If some of them are out, take the timing belt off and cams out, take the follower out using a magnet (a clean one) and measure it with a micrometer, record your result and then say the clearance is 0.15 and it's supposed to be 0.20 you take 0.05 off the follower size and you have got a rough size.
On an ST170 the shim is the follower unless someones done away with that like we did. So if the clearances are too big you need to buy a thicker follower.
Take the cam cover off, check the clearances using feeler gauges (To check a clearance make sure the lobe of the cam is pointing upwards on the clearance you're checking) Compare them with what they're supposed to be. If some of them are out, take the timing belt off and cams out, take the follower out using a magnet (a clean one) and measure it with a micrometer, record your result and then say the clearance is 0.15 and it's supposed to be 0.20 you take 0.05 off the follower size and you have got a rough size.
Take the cam cover off, check the clearances using feeler gauges (To check a clearance make sure the lobe of the cam is pointing upwards on the clearance you're checking) Compare them with what they're supposed to be. If some of them are out, take the timing belt off and cams out, take the follower out using a magnet (a clean one) and measure it with a micrometer, record your result and then say the clearance is 0.15 and it's supposed to be 0.20 you take 0.05 off the follower size and you have got a rough size.
Not a problem at all mate. Keep everything clean and do one follower at a time otherwise it gets confusing. Also do be careful with cam timing and give it the two revolutions with a spanner on the crank pulley before cranking otherwise it may have another rattle!
Last edited by ChrisH; Jun 5, 2011 at 05:29 PM.
cool i was ready to start ripping out the timing chain as it has never been changed.
had alook online everywhere for a workshop book but am sure its true as everyone has said there is no diffrence in the head or engine to a 2.0 zetec.. but is the head assembly the same?
cheers chris
chris
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUw6_eO78OY&feature=related
this is the sound i have been told its injectors too, but again, are they the same assembly as the 2.0 zetec?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUw6_eO78OY&feature=related
this is the sound i have been told its injectors too, but again, are they the same assembly as the 2.0 zetec?
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cool i was ready to start ripping out the timing chain as it has never been changed.
had alook online everywhere for a workshop book but am sure its true as everyone has said there is no diffrence in the head or engine to a 2.0 zetec.. but is the head assembly the same?
cheers chris
had alook online everywhere for a workshop book but am sure its true as everyone has said there is no diffrence in the head or engine to a 2.0 zetec.. but is the head assembly the same?
cheers chris
The head is different to a 2L Zetec, valves and ports are identical, first it has variable valve timing and the inlet cam is slightly different, the valve springs are different and 2.0L Zetecs have hydraulic lifters and ST170's are solid. It will bolt onto a Zetec block but you'd need to remove the variable valve timing etc but the ST170 head is better.


