hey gang

having running issues with the zetec engine i built, normally starts fine, but recently it will struggle to start, when it is running it shudders and fights like its going to stall and the exhaust is sounding like a missfire

i have changed crank sensor, cam sensor, coilpack, maf makes it run worse so is unplugged, lambda unpluged makes no difference iscv unplugged makes the car stall so thats working fine... timing has been checked and is all good, used pin and bar and flywheel locking tool

also checked for air leaks and cant seem to find any, but getting a hiss around the inlet area, only other thing i can think of is the crank case valve, i heard that can cause rough idle if blocked

also what colour injectors should be on the 1.8 got HO inlet and looks like black injectors, i'm wondering if they been changed as the engine came with the black plastic type inlet with brown injectors

any help would be awesome as i'm gonna set fire to it otherwise... not even gonna bother trying to sell it, its wound me up so much the last couple days, i would love to see 1K of engine rebuild burn in hell

 

as you say it could be the crank case breather is blocked, and different injectors would corse it to run rough. try cleaning out the breather pipes and make sure all connections are clean

 

breather pipes all new all silicone... engine has only done 4 miles and rough idle has gradually got worse will check the pcv tonight if it stops raining and see how it idles with it out of the case... will let you know

 

crank case valve is ok, still rough idles, going to swap out the injector rail (use the one that came with the engine, not the ho injector rail) next and see what happens

hopefully it will cure that

am i ok to be using the RS1800 ECU????? or should i be using a different one?

 

An RS1800 ECU obviously isn't the right one for the car but wouldn't make it idle like that, my mate and I have just done a 2L conversion on his with one of my 1.8 Zetec ported/raised comp heads on it that's only running 1.8 management for the moment which isn't ideal by any means but it doesn't pink or anything, sounds sweet.
Does it idle or does your foot have to be on the accelerator?
It sounds very much like an air leak, it would cause it to do everything you're saying, when you're driving does it still sound like a pile of crap or is it fine?

 

it idles, but is very irratic, kinda like its going to stall and its fighting to keep running, putting foot on pedal makes it smooth out but after that at idle it tends to get worse and hunts for a idle again...

i have fitted 2l maf, trottle body, new followers and cams...

could the cams be making it run ruggid

it has a tapping noise when running, not sure if its the new followers bedding in as i drove it 4 miles and didnt shut up.. lol

when driving its awsome, pulls like a train and sounds nice with the scorpion exhaust, well under the tapping noise at the top end, like you say with air leak i'll swap out the injectors and double check all bolts around inlet

what ECU should i be running? i do have another code 2fdc i think... its something like that would that be the one to use????

lambda is new as is cat, cam sensor, crank sensor replaced with no difference.

going to get a new fuel filter as i feel its in need of a new one

 

Reset the throttle possition sensor

 

TPS i am suspect of also...

i have removed it and re possitioned it made no difference, so may have to buy a new one of those also...

i am still leaning on air leak as the afr gauge is all over the place, on revs its goues up the range and sits nicly, when returning to the rough idle, the gauge tends to jump around the lean and optimal and sometimes goes off the scale on the lean side

 

check plastic t peice at rear of engine . brake clutch cleaner may help you find your leak just spray a little around the area of concern .did you use new inlet gasket . hope this helps

 

I have had a similar fault twice on a 2.0 zetec engines. Both times found it to be the breather from the back of the throttle body. They go soft and suck themselves closed then over time they split giving the fault that you have described. Hope this helps.

 

t peice not there, i removed that and have the pipe going to a oil catch can...

one other thing i thinking of is...

on the HO sandwich plate there is a pipe on the side, what is that meant to go to????

all gaskets were new on rebuild...

 

Air leaks do make it sound like it's rattling, makes it sound like the cam timing is off aswell, sometimes backfires etc. Well if your car is just a 115ps 1.8 Zetec the RS18000 is 130PS, but it wouldn't make it idle like that.

 

breather behind the throttle??? do you have a pic of that area as i can't see any breather on the TB

all the breather hoses are silicone so shouldnt suck closed... its really confusing as i cant find anything...

 

right...

so even with the 130ps cams, inlet, TB and MAF wouldn't that then bring it to the level as a 130ps ????

 

Oh right i didn't realise, yes it would.

 

thats what i thought, so with that in mind what are the injectors i should be using colour wise, at the moment they are black...

 

If the parts have been changed has the map been altered as it will be a different map on the 130 ecu

 

If the maf sensor makes it run worse, then there's one of your problems, but they're cheap as chips to replace. I've found some of the Zetec engines run like shit without them plugged in too, but it's usually the later silver tops.

 

as far as i know its a stock RS1800 map on the ALSO coded ECU doesnt look like it has been chipped but then again anythings possible...

mine is the later type ST with 16v zetec on the rocker cover, with it plugged in its more violent with the idle, without it settles it and the revs pick up but still not right

 

Just spotted that you're using a 2L MAF on a 1.8, i don't know if that would cause it but put the RS1800 MAF on it.

 

arn't the sensors the same??? just that the housing is larger?? thats what i thought anyway

 

No they're not the same.

 

ah ok, does anyone have/know the finis code for the 1.8 one?????

 

Did you cure this problem? I have same sort of issue, 2.0 conversion from a 1.8, have to keep foot on throttle otherwise it stalls?
Only running 1.8 ECU and Injectors, is that the issue you think?

 

hi i have recently converted my 1.6 cvh engine mk4 orion to a 1.8 fiesta zetec engine using the fiesta ecu and loom wired into my own loom car starts fine but as soon as the engine warms up and you try to drive it it starts splutering and losses power to the point where it hardly moves when you press the accelerator to the point where it tries to cut out help me please