Tried to put one of these on my 2wd Saff after fitting a new CWP and ATB in my diff, and it doesn't fit!

I had to take out the alloy washer and trim back the stainless sleeves, and with only a gnat's clearance, it still rubs on my ARB on the overrun!

As the original was a waste of space, what do I do now?!

GGR has very kindly offered to take it back as I can't use it, the vibration is driving me bloody mad!!

Anyone else had the same issue on their car?

They showed me a pic of one they fitted today, and it fitted perfectly! After 10 years tucked away, I just want to drive the bloody thing!!

Thanks fella

Weeksy

 

u need some cap head bolts as normal ones dont fit between the mount and roll bar for some stupid reason they sell these mounts with bolts that dont fit then try sell a flush fit bolt set for more? (dont know what thats about) i got some stainless 8.8 caphead allen key bolts from hampshire bolt and tool for about 3 pounds!

 

Could always poly your std diff mount, fitting isn't an issue then, and at Ł25 does the SAME EXACT JOB AS THE OTHER POLY ONES.
Been tested over 2 years now from taxis to 1/4 mile cars running 500+bhp, not a single complaint yet!!
tabetha

 

can see its better than standard but not as good as a proper one as u are just filling the large voids around the rubber one with polly! will flex more than one of the after market ones but fair play less than a standard one

 

I had the same problem with my GGR Diff mount as well, also the mounting plate wouldn't sit flat onto the remember there was a gap on the back edge of about 6mm is'h, I even tried loosening the beam and diff bolts to help make it sit flush but that still didn't work so I made a tapered Ali shim the same shape as the back plate to help it sit flush as I didn't want to bolt it up with the gap there incase it bent the base plate.

What I done to clear the ARB was to replace the top bolt with a countersunk bolt and also made a washer because the original back plate wasn't thick enough to countersink as I didn't want to weaken the fixing.

Here is some pics for reference, hope it helps

Tapered Ali shim






Bolt touching the ARB

You can see the gap between the mount plate and the cross member

 

Testing shows otherwise, the "poly" used for this is NOT the same poly used in the after market ones, actually it's NOT poly urethane at all !!!, unlike the after market ones, and it completely encompasses the square section that houses the alloy bolt through section in the centre.
tabetha

 

Testing shows otherwise, the "poly" used for this is NOT the same poly used in the after market ones, actually it's NOT poly urethane at all !!!, unlike the after market ones, and it completely encompasses the square section that houses the alloy bolt through section in the centre.
It's also NOT a RIP OFF PRICE, for a product that hasn't been researched/designed correctly, as supplied by msd/ggr/others etc, where peeps are having fitting problems, it is TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE imo on something that you paid good money for.
I don't and won't sell these, some are given to mates at cost price(+ postage).
Poly urethane as a chemical is dirt cheap.
tabetha

 

Do you want to qualify that statement right away please? Here are videos of my mount.

This video I made showing the flex in a standard one...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I_Yo9sS300


And this shows the new one fitted:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFRo-gLSy2M


Do you want to show me how its a rip off and unresearched?

 

Thinking of buying one of these and as I'm new to the 2wd cos scene will I notice the difference and are they easy to change any do's or dont's as I wouldn't want to foo anything up

 

Yes mate, they make a great difference in many ways depending on how worn your own is. Fitment is simple but its made much easier by fitting the TOP bolt first, don't tighten it, then fit the lower bolt. Otherwise it feels like they wont fit as the bush allows no movement for bolt alignment, but they fit fine done up that way. Bolt it to the floor LAST.