Ok, bit of history on the car;

2wd saph, I've owned the car for 9 years and for the last 4 years (before I took it off the road) it has been running in the region of 350 - 380bhp. original 205block & 2wd head, internals are standard, wire rung block, escort head gasket.

some of the bolt on upgrades;

grey injectors
GT30 (just replaced T34)
water injection
4x4 intercooler
oil cooler
nms live mapped chip

Car is used hard and on track (Leda & AP upgrades), I have done 35,000 miles on this kind of spec, engine has done 96k so I think I've done pretty well with this one! It is looked after with oil changes before/after each track day etc

The car has been in the garage for the last 3 years, in the past couple of weeks I have got her back on the road, I changed all fluids including;

brake
engine oil
gearbox
diff
coolant

put new brake pads on, drained the tank, new fuel filter etc etc.

The car seemed to be going OK (was holding approx 30psi on T34 but knocked it back to 25 with new turbo until get it setup). Nice weather today so thought I would carry on getting her ready for the season and was going to get it on the pit to clean & wax oil underneath. Checked water etc before setting off and noticed the level in the header was a little low so topped it up (had my suspicions already) got to my parents where the pit is and popped the bonnet, cooling system was quite presurised and noticed it looked a bit leaky around the front right corner of block/head so defo head gasket needs doing. The engine is a little noisy now and I think it's time for a re build, I've also noticed since its been back out that there is quite alot of piston slap on start up(i know you should expect some on the 2wd) oil pressure on tick over when warm is 35psi. Also when you stop at junction it was puffing bluey smoke and was firing on 3 when idiling for a short while. So while the heads off I'm going to have a good look, what should I be expecting to find....
& what would be best course of action so I can have a reliable 400-420bhp??

Cheers

Jodi

 

Head will be well and truly shagged, the guides especially, but also likely a lot of the exhaust valves will need binning, as may have got very thin around edges.
The guide wear on the yb is a big issue, the best material for new guides is COLSHIBO, which is what I have in mine, I caught mine just in time as some pillock(ford dealer) had bodged the previous HG repair before I got the car, and the exhaust valves ground so thin they must have glowed!!
I've just rebuilt mine, after 200,973 miles on original bottom end, it has even gone back together with the originally fitted thrust shells, and still only 4 thou thrust!!
I used std bearing shells, and std oil pump, but every tolerance was checked first.
My crank is on std grind, and didn't really need a polish.
I have the history from day one so know mileage is correct, I used a group a HG, the dizzy is modded with oilite bearing sleeves.
At your power I'd seriously consider a different inlet cam, exhaust is fine as std, a BD15, and some mild head porting will work wonders before set up/mapping.
tabetha

 

Jodi,

Sorry to hi-jack your thread, just want to say to Tab, that's amazing mate 200k miles.... just shows it can be done of treated/looked after well....

 

The engine was going great, used really hard, this helps to burn off the contaminants in the oil, it was the oil control rings that let go BIG time in the end, using 1L in about 30 miles!!
Inside of engine was clean as a whistle, I use flush before every change, change oil at around 6000 miles, the last 10,000 miles were on Comma 20W50 MINERAL oil, as oil consumption had shot up.
I refuse to and would never use a ford oil filter, found rust inside some that were literally only days old, pops had one on a mondy that sprung a leak from the edge genuine ford again, I use only MAHLER.
tabetha

 

personally if your going to pull the head off you may as well pull out the bottom end and have all the tolrences checked.

but i agree with tabs, the oil related smoke is like to be stem seals or guides.

lastly; if you want to get the best out of the gt30 you need to dumo the grey injectors, you'll be much better off with siemens 83lbs

cheers

 

Best advice I can give...

If you're are offered or find the best parts for reasonable money, BUY THEM there and then!!!

Don't piss about by conteplating your options, take the opportunity when it presents itself. Otherwise you'll be waiting for shit to appear like I have for 4 months. Believe me, despite now having all the parts I wanted, it still feels a life time!

BUILD IT ONCE, BUILD IT RIGHT.....

 

Thank for replies guys, will let you know what I find and work out best course of action from there. Thought Id done well at nearly 100k but youve Taken that one Tabetha! Cheers, jodi

 

I've seen another on the rollers with 170,000 on original bottom end, going strong.
tabetha