1986rs

hello every one
im trying to find out what kind of chip or what stage it is,
i have only just bought this car and new to the game..
on the chip it self is a hand written number 3BL6HC803.. mean any thing to anyone? also car is noisy top end , will new ina lifters fix this problem, not sure if there original or not car has done a over 100,000 miles, it does get better when hot but still there...
thanks guys....

oldford

Just guessing: a L6 ecu with 803 injectors.
First 3 could mean phase 3 or 3 bar map sensor.

1986rs

[quote=1986rs;5343682]hello every one
im trying to find out what kind of chip or what stage it is,
i have only just bought this car and new to the game..
on the chip it self is a hand written number 3BL6HC803.. mean any thing to anyone? also car is noisy top end , will new ina lifters fix this problem, not sure if there original or not car has done a over 100,000 miles, it does get better when hot but still there...
thanks guys.... my car is a 3 door sierra.

tabetha

As your car is a 3 door, it had originally anyway a L1 ecu, if this is the case then a L6 chip won't be any good for it, L6 is fitted to the 2wd sapphire cossies.
I would assume as indicated a L6 chip 3 bar map sensor and 803, dark green injectors.
I would get the CO checked/adjusted to around 2.5% at the earliest opportunity, after a mega service of course.
tabetha

1986rs

ok, so L1 to L6 is arange of performance is this right? not sure what the co is? im pretty sure the injectors are light green. so thes numbers hand written on the chip are a level of performance custom to the vehicle?

tabetha

NO, sorry I seem to have confused you.
A 3 door cossie has a L1 ecu
a 2wd sapphy has a L6 ecu
a 4wd sapphy has a L8 ecu
The "L" in 1/6/8 is NOTHING to do with the stage of tune, it is simply the code number given for the different ecu's fitted to the cars, your L1 for example is a much more basic version of the later L6, but BOTH cars are 204 bhp as standard, the 4wd had certain revisions and used a L8 ecu and had 224bhp.
So the chip has to be right for the "L" of the ecu you have, you cannot use a L6 chip in a L1 ecu for example, or the other way around a L6 in aL1.
In short unless your car has had a later 2wd sapphire cossie L6 ecu put in, in place of the original L1 ecu your car left the factory with, the chip is wrong.
With what is written on the chip, it's very obvious it was intended for a L6 ecu, ie 2wd sapphire cossie(which someone may have put in your car- as it is a direct fit), and 803's, these are DARK GREEN injectors, part number is 0 280 150 803 written on the injector.
If your car is on LIGHT greens, then do not use ANY boost until you've fitted DARK greens, the dark greens flow more gas/fuel, fitting LIGHT greens where the chip is for DARK greens will result in a weak ENGINE DESTROYING mixture.
The colour of the adjustment screw on the front face of the ecu will tell you if it is a original fitted L1 or the later 2wd sapphire cossie L6 ecu, on the L1 it is YELLOW, on the later L6 it is white, although when a few years old appears more silver/dull grey.
This screw can be found on the face of the ecu behind the dash panel on passenger side, simply lever panel off and look, it is in a little "tube" type/looking bit poking out towards you, towards the right hand side of the main harness connector, is it YELLOW(L1) or more silver/dull grey(L6) ?
The term CO refers to the carbon monoxide(gas) output of the engine.
Does you car have air pump/any SMOG fitted ?
tabetha

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The L denotes "Level", 1,6,8 respectivly, with each generation being a revision and better than the predessor, for example L8 has 128K memory opposed to the 64K of the L1/6, the BT Escos had a P8 which again was an advancement on the L8.

Yes those numbers usually denotes it's calibration, the dipiction on the second post makes the most sense, if this is the case then your car would be stage 3.

I should think the chip is the correct one as I would doubt it would run otherwise as you can't swap chips between the different ECU'S!

With regards to the lifters, have you/do you know when the oil was changed at what grade? To be honest I should think the only cure is replacement especially with that millage, expect to pay around £200 and as you say you want the make INA, there are cheap copys floating about which you don't want to entertain, I think some people try and use Volkswagon ones as well which dosen't work!

Another thing you could try as a cheap test is "Wynns hydralic lifter lube" but like I say I suspect replacement is the only cure.

The CO should be set to what the author has written it for.

Martin

1986rs

ok guys its really good to hear the feed back.
the guy i bought the car off didnt really no to much about the car he had owned it for 8 years, and the owner before chiped it and played around with it, its had a larger turbo put on , gt35 i believe but only running low boost, doesnt make much sence really...
i will have to look to see what ecu is fitted,
i was thinking of stage two chip from Burtons but will work out what the storey is with the set up.
changed the oil put 10/60w still a little tapity..
will be changing cam belt and adjuster soon so might buy the lifters at the same time.
So i guesing there is no adjusting on Hydrolic lifters??
thanks again will get some photos up this weekend...
THANKS GAIN.............................................. .

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The choice of turbo seems strange in comparison to the setup, you sure it isn't a T34 (This is also reffered to as a T35) as this would make more sense?

It's not just a case of getting any chip as you need an exact calibration to suit your engine spec, I.E if it is a GT35 the software needs to suit accordingly.

No adjustment on the lifters as they are operated by the oil pressure.

Martin

tabetha

Whilst there is no adjustment on the lifters, they are piss easy to clean out and save your money, just slap them down hard on a solid metal surface, like the anvil face on a vice, then you can remove the insides to clean out.
tabetha

JonathanJ

If I remember correctly the L1 ecu had a small yellow co screw on it and the L6 had a larger white co screw in it , they were a straight swap and way back when I ran a hillclimb Cosworth we swapped the early ecu for the L6 as the company who sponsored us at the time recommended it as they believed they had more headroom for chip capacity , again it was a slightly faster main chip so improved slightly its abilities .

If it is a white screw then would totally agree with the 3BL6HC803 being

3B = 3 bar
L6 = Level 6
HC = High Compression ie Standard Compression as these did not have knock sensors they may well of built in some more retard into the map to prevent Pinking
803 = 803 injectors

Just my thoughts