2wd Diff mount fitting problems??
I'm after some advice as usual, started to fit uprated diff mount today and have ran into a couple of problems, the first one being that the bolts are touching the ARB, I know that this is a common problem so I am going to source some new countersunk bolts and then countersink the allu back plate to clear ARB (not a major task).
As you can see from the picture as I jack up the diff the mount is not sitting flat with the floor section cross-member, the two foremost fixings (nearest the diff) touch first leaving a 5mm gap at the back of the fixing plate, I have tried putting the old one back on to see if it sits flat once jacked up into position, and it does but bearing in mind that the ford item is also a lot more flexible.


So my Questions are:
1, would it be OK to just bolt it up, is the billet alloy strong enough to do this without bending it I don't want to crack it.
2, would loosening the diff bolts to sub-frame help re-aline it or is there no slack there on the fixings.
3, would it be alright to put a 1 or 2mm shim/washer between the diff and the mount bottom fixing bolt which would probably be enough to close the 5mm gap up.
4, Do you still torque the bolts up to the ford specification or will this split the alloy
Sorry if it's all a bit long winded, but is it just me that seems to get problems with everything that I buy or try to do on these cars that we can,t seem to grow out of.
As you can see from the picture as I jack up the diff the mount is not sitting flat with the floor section cross-member, the two foremost fixings (nearest the diff) touch first leaving a 5mm gap at the back of the fixing plate, I have tried putting the old one back on to see if it sits flat once jacked up into position, and it does but bearing in mind that the ford item is also a lot more flexible.


So my Questions are:
1, would it be OK to just bolt it up, is the billet alloy strong enough to do this without bending it I don't want to crack it.
2, would loosening the diff bolts to sub-frame help re-aline it or is there no slack there on the fixings.
3, would it be alright to put a 1 or 2mm shim/washer between the diff and the mount bottom fixing bolt which would probably be enough to close the 5mm gap up.
4, Do you still torque the bolts up to the ford specification or will this split the alloy
Sorry if it's all a bit long winded, but is it just me that seems to get problems with everything that I buy or try to do on these cars that we can,t seem to grow out of.
Loosen the bolts(a little) on the diff a bit, then just tighten up the mount on the four bolts so it sits flat, tighten diff mount to casing bolts fully, alloy mount will bend but not break, don't use any shims, I never torque up these, just do up tight.
tabetha
tabetha
Cheers tabetha I will give it a go tomorrow weather permitting, also would it help if I put the rear on axle stands because at the moment all four wheels are sat on ramps so the rear is under load?
Cheers again for your input much appreciated.
Cheers again for your input much appreciated.
All sorted and thanks again for the previous tips, I tried as you mentioned even loosening the beam mounts which helped to get the diff mount to sit flush with the floor cross-member, I then put the front fixings in but left the rear fixings out to see what happened when I tightened the beam back up, and it did start to pull the diff mount down at the back again.
I was not happy with putting this much strain on the diff mount, so my options were ether shim the beam mount or shim the mount to floor cross-member but I opted for shiming the mount to diff section, I made a shim out of a piece of aluminium plate the same shape as the two oval plates and machined it from 4mm to 1.5mm and placed this between the diff and mount mating suffices, which made it meet the cross-member squarely.
I probably read to much into it and I know most people would of just tightened it up as it was, but thing like this play on my mind.
I was not happy with putting this much strain on the diff mount, so my options were ether shim the beam mount or shim the mount to floor cross-member but I opted for shiming the mount to diff section, I made a shim out of a piece of aluminium plate the same shape as the two oval plates and machined it from 4mm to 1.5mm and placed this between the diff and mount mating suffices, which made it meet the cross-member squarely.
I probably read to much into it and I know most people would of just tightened it up as it was, but thing like this play on my mind.
I haven't driven it yet hopefully will get a chance next week but I still have a few things I want to get done.
I have got some Collins engine mounts coming in the morning from the boys at MSD and also have put an uprated vibe-tech gearbox mount on so will have to see how bearable the noise is, It's felt a bit sloppy for a while because the gearbox mount was totally shot, should feel nice and tight now though.
I have got some Collins engine mounts coming in the morning from the boys at MSD and also have put an uprated vibe-tech gearbox mount on so will have to see how bearable the noise is, It's felt a bit sloppy for a while because the gearbox mount was totally shot, should feel nice and tight now though.
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It's not a every day car so I will just have to see, not sure what the other options are as local parts dept said that the originals are no longer available but I suppose I should of shopped around a bit more.
when I say it's not a every day car what I should of said is that it hasn't relay been a yearly car, Only been out about 5 times in the past two years
when I say it's not a every day car what I should of said is that it hasn't relay been a yearly car, Only been out about 5 times in the past two years
I took it out for the first time yesterday and all I can say is I am now in love again, you are right tabetha it makes a hell of a difference, I also fitted Collins engine mounts and the Vibe-Tech fast road 2wd gearbox mount and yes you do get a little more noise but the feel of the car more than makes up for this.
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