cosworth engine noise
#1
cosworth nutter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: birmingham
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cosworth engine noise
hiya. after overfeulin problems and a map sensor goin down on my 2wd cozy it has started rattlin top end past 300 rpm.
now iv took it loads of places. iv been told 2 change the oil
its had 3 oil changes now. using 10/40 15/40 n 20/50.
people hav sed cud b little ends . but cud it b tappets 2?
it hasnt lost power . it sounds fine up tp past 3000 rpm then it sound like a loud rattle above that . sounds 2wards the back of the engine.
cud it b down 2 oil pressure 2?
now the engine has defo had bore wash from major overfueling. wots the most likly damage this wud cauze??
wots my plan?
shall i check oil pressure? n how do i do this?
after that shall i try changin the tappets or is there away of working it out b4 rippin the engine apart?!!!!
plz help me!!!! lol
now iv took it loads of places. iv been told 2 change the oil
its had 3 oil changes now. using 10/40 15/40 n 20/50.
people hav sed cud b little ends . but cud it b tappets 2?
it hasnt lost power . it sounds fine up tp past 3000 rpm then it sound like a loud rattle above that . sounds 2wards the back of the engine.
cud it b down 2 oil pressure 2?
now the engine has defo had bore wash from major overfueling. wots the most likly damage this wud cauze??
wots my plan?
shall i check oil pressure? n how do i do this?
after that shall i try changin the tappets or is there away of working it out b4 rippin the engine apart?!!!!
plz help me!!!! lol
#2
competant bodger
iTrader: (2)
sometimes the oilways in the head can block up and i believe this effects lubrication to the rear of the engine first but could be wrong as for bore wash not good news mate petrol in oil stops the oil from being a lubricant and basically can shag every moving part of your engine, ive seen many a crankshaft killed by bore wash
#3
Bore wash tends to kill rings before anything else, as they run effectively dry.
Little ends and tappets sound totally different, if it was tappets they wouldn't all do it, if they did and it was down to oil pressure you'd have a lot more to worry about, does the oil light go off right away ?, disconnect the coil and spin on the starter does the oil light still go off almost immediately ?, if it does stop thinking oil pressure.
The tappets which get affected first tend to be the rear exhaust side ones on no4, these are the last to get the oil supply also, and where the crap collects from the congealed oil, there are blanking plugs on the ends of the oil galleries either side of the head, when rebuilding these should be removed and the oil gallery cleaned out each side.
If it sounds as though it is coming from the rear of the engine, is it worse when slowing down from high rpm through the gears ?, if as I suspect it is, then think clutch arm rattle, the rubber boot can become dislodged where it passes through the bell housing, so it rattles on the alloy window, another option is clutch plate rattle, the springs in the friction plate can break, esp if doing many hard wheelspins, these cause a monumental rattle, but apart from being annoying do no damage.
tabetha
Little ends and tappets sound totally different, if it was tappets they wouldn't all do it, if they did and it was down to oil pressure you'd have a lot more to worry about, does the oil light go off right away ?, disconnect the coil and spin on the starter does the oil light still go off almost immediately ?, if it does stop thinking oil pressure.
The tappets which get affected first tend to be the rear exhaust side ones on no4, these are the last to get the oil supply also, and where the crap collects from the congealed oil, there are blanking plugs on the ends of the oil galleries either side of the head, when rebuilding these should be removed and the oil gallery cleaned out each side.
If it sounds as though it is coming from the rear of the engine, is it worse when slowing down from high rpm through the gears ?, if as I suspect it is, then think clutch arm rattle, the rubber boot can become dislodged where it passes through the bell housing, so it rattles on the alloy window, another option is clutch plate rattle, the springs in the friction plate can break, esp if doing many hard wheelspins, these cause a monumental rattle, but apart from being annoying do no damage.
tabetha
#4
cosworth nutter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: birmingham
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ye oil light goes off straight away. I took it 2 an engine place just. N they didnt want 2 look at it at al! Becuz it was a cozy . It pisd me off. So i propa bootd it 2 the red line. The noise has changd now. Its doin it al thu the rev range. Its there on lite throtle but goes on heavy. Its startin 2 sound lik tapets at the bak. Tick tick tick. Looks like il try a new set then. Is it worth doin both a hd gasket n ring gasket same time 2. C where i am. Thanx
#5
I would do just the tappets if you're sure it's that, use a cometic r/c gasket.
I really can't understand why people shy away from cossies, they are seriously simple to do, try to remove the blanking plugs on oil gallery and clean out working a pull brush always rearwards never forwards direction, think it's a 8mm allen key needed.
tabetha
I really can't understand why people shy away from cossies, they are seriously simple to do, try to remove the blanking plugs on oil gallery and clean out working a pull brush always rearwards never forwards direction, think it's a 8mm allen key needed.
tabetha
#6
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
Normally if tappets they are noisy all the time, you already have done oil change but you can try Wynn's Hydraulic lifter lube this can work wonders and will be cheaper than a new set of lifters, if you do get new make sure there INA. (Matt Lewis does them)
Martin
Martin
Trending Topics
#8
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
when i first bought my car,the tappets would start to rattle on tickover after a few minutes,when it was revved it was fine.the oil light never came on.Eventually i decided to take the sump off and discovered that there was no gasket between the oil pick up pipe and the oil pump,also where it had been overtightened,it had bowed the flange,and therefore was sucking it air,when it was revving it was not really a problem,but on tick over it became apparent.It was a simple fix,it cured the tappet problem,but unfortunately 500 miles later i could hear one of the ends knocking,it was only slight,but a rebuild was due.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
big_Rad
General Car Related Discussion.
8
15-09-2017 09:36 AM
track.focus'd
Restorations, Rebuilds & Projects.
26
12-08-2015 05:53 PM
wheelwizardrefurbs
Technical help Q & A
10
04-08-2015 06:23 PM