Hello all, I'm learning as I go with this build so bare with me. I've been looking at what YB threads I can find and theres no daught this is the place! you guys really know your stuff, and I'ed respect and value your advise on what I should do!

My aim is too build a YB Turbo lump for my mk3 Capri, aiming for 300/350bhp but It needs to be reliable, nice to drive as It will be daily driven (possible?)

So far I have the following
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0/IMG_0652.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Pistons002.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0/IMG_0656.jpg

205 block
Cosworth Rods/Crank/Pistons
Sump/Pickup
Crankcase

I need a head, manifolds, turbo, pullys and all ansilleries.

Is what I have any good?

The 2wd head is different to the 4wd head, how so, will a 2wd head get me anywhere?

Also I've yet to see a turbo manifold for a YB on ebay, are they rare and not available off the shelf? I find it hard to beleive!

I've heard the T3 isnt up too the job and I should go for a better turbo to start with, witch one would anyone recomend if this is true?

I'm still quite in the dark what to do about an inlet manifold/fuel delivery and ecu... I was thinking a standard one all round would be the best thing?

I'm aware of greens, 31- actuator, 3 bar map sensor, chip, uprated head gasket and head bolts, I've got along way to go before I need to buy them tho!

Sorry for all the questions!

Thanks for reading!

 

i believe a t34 turbo will be fine for that sort power with a .48 exhaust housing for less lag and better drivability

Cheers,Rick

 

I dont think u'l be to far off the power figure u want with what u list there buddy, once built and runnin get it in to a reputible tuner for a set up. Plenty to choose from on here ,
Yeah a t34 or 36 will great for what u want they'll spool up nice and quick and produce plenty of punch .
Not sure bout ur question on 4x4 vs 2wd heads but im sure if u wait ten mins u'l have an answer , wait another ten and u'l have it confirmed and the history of why .Lots of very clever chaps and chapet's on here , Once again good luck and get a build thread started so any probs you encounter can be answered and sorted nine times out of ten before you spot em. Cheers

Ally

 

Mark Shead of MADevelopments is your first port oof call mate.

 

That sort of power is childs play, the main difference between 2wd and 4wd heads is in the cooling passages, and the passageways from head to block in the head.
The 2wd has long slots, the 4wd has holes, that better support the gasket, the cooling system was also redesigned on the 4wd, the pump itself has masses more flow capacity for a start.
After that though, the 2wd will be totally unfussed about that power level, they were intended to have around 300bhp to start with, it was ford that insisted on a detune, so as not to upset the M3 boys too much!!
There can be a big variation of flow on injectors, I would go larger than dark greens(803's), I would use greys, combine this with a decent mapping session and it will be fine, I run greys(403's) at 300bhp and can get 40mpg on a run, but average around 27mpg short runs stuff, idle co is 0.97% perfection.
If you are going to do any future mods(you will!!) then carefully consider a aftermarket ecu, there are loads to choose from, some buy just because it has a "known" name, don't waste your money when you can get a lot cheaper that will do what you want just as well.
Also consider who is going to map it, where they are don't want 1000mile round trip for mapping, well actually that would be a good excuse for a blast, so you might want that!!
For the power you want a T34.48 will be perfect and punchy low down, keep std cams/head/CR.
tabetha

 

one of those rods looks like it has got hot

 

also look at the weight of the rods,there seems to be quite a difference in size at the bottom of the big ends

 

I've gotta find someone who can do all the required maching work too the bottom end to start with.

I need someone who can inspect the componants to see if their any good to start with, then do whats required so I can get it put together.

I was going to use ARP bolts allround, then w/e shells that are a suitable size when the machineing has been done.

I asume when getting maching work done, you get your componants machined to what size shells are availiable?

 

only machine parts if necessary,then get shells to suit,if you need to go more than first oversize on the bores,it will need sleeving, if you want anything over 320 bhp reliably

 

then get shells to suit,if you need to go more than first oversize on the bores,it will need sleeving, if you want anything over 320 bhp reliably[/quote]

why?, mine has 92mm bore with 423 bhp, it aint broke yet

 

apparently,the block can crack if you bore it out to big on high bhp engines,its a gamble if your spending a lot of money on building an engine if you go 2nd over size.Its common to do now

 

I lost count of the 205's taken to +90" that I've done, put way more than 320 through some, never heard of a problem either, and these were all used high mileage abused cars.
tabetha

 

The 4wd head has smaller combustion chambers so ensure you use the correct pistons for the head you choose.