fitting a mega squirt to blacktop
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fitting a mega squirt to blacktop
hi all basically im looking at a ms ecu for my 1.8 focus as its going to be on itbs soon!
i need help with wiring it up what sensors need wiring?
ive got basic wiring knowledge and if some one had some wiring diagrams it would be great help! ive also got a spare engine with most the sensors in place as well so can use them if need be. whats this edis system i keep reading about? do i need that?
alex
i need help with wiring it up what sensors need wiring?
ive got basic wiring knowledge and if some one had some wiring diagrams it would be great help! ive also got a spare engine with most the sensors in place as well so can use them if need be. whats this edis system i keep reading about? do i need that?
alex
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hay there dale can set the whole lot up for u if u want http://baileyperformance.co.uk/ and his prices wont cost u the earth i think its around the 600.00 mark for fitting and mapping the ecu give him a ring and see what he can do for u
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tbh lads im looking at doing it my self, well the wiring and base map then theres a place by me that will do the final map! just looking for info on what sensors need wiring.
alex
alex
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To actually answer the question, you will need the following sensors:
Crank position sensor (standard on the block reader the flywheel)
Engine temperature sensor
Air temperature sensor
Throttle position sensor
MAP sensor (built in the Megasquirt)
EDIS is Ford's ignition management module that is compatible with Megasquirt. This was used on all early Zetec engine before the module was integrated into the main ecu.
Crank position sensor (standard on the block reader the flywheel)
Engine temperature sensor
Air temperature sensor
Throttle position sensor
MAP sensor (built in the Megasquirt)
EDIS is Ford's ignition management module that is compatible with Megasquirt. This was used on all early Zetec engine before the module was integrated into the main ecu.
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Youn wont technically need/able to use the MAp sensor as with ITBs you want to map with Alpha-N (unless you plan on having a big plenum chamber)
othewise as per JesseTs post:
Coolant
Air Temp (you will need to add this sensor as standard it is part of the AFM)
TPS
Crank
If you use our V4 you wont need EDIS modules or anything like that as ours as coil drivers built in. Also, it supports all the standard Ford sensors, so the only additional you will need is air temp, which we can supply if needed for about Ł12.
The V4 also has a tacho output etc so your dash will still work, and programmable fan output (the fan is ecu controlled on the focus, unline fezzies, RSTs etc that use a stat switch)
We also have an array of basemaps for the Zetec. Are you running jenvies or GSXR itbs?
Matt
othewise as per JesseTs post:
Coolant
Air Temp (you will need to add this sensor as standard it is part of the AFM)
TPS
Crank
If you use our V4 you wont need EDIS modules or anything like that as ours as coil drivers built in. Also, it supports all the standard Ford sensors, so the only additional you will need is air temp, which we can supply if needed for about Ł12.
The V4 also has a tacho output etc so your dash will still work, and programmable fan output (the fan is ecu controlled on the focus, unline fezzies, RSTs etc that use a stat switch)
We also have an array of basemaps for the Zetec. Are you running jenvies or GSXR itbs?
Matt
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on that link you posted up were for exmaple it says
ground and gives 4 numbers and then on the ms ecu its got 8 numbers do you have to basically fit all 2 wires off each lead from the ecu and one into each ms ecu?
and the same for the ignition were theres 2 wires on the ecu going into one on the ms? is that correct?
also on my tps sensor i have 3 wires and theres only one on the table you put up do i only need to use the one then?
alex
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on that link you posted up were for exmaple it says
ground and gives 4 numbers and then on the ms ecu its got 8 numbers do you have to basically fit all 2 wires off each lead from the ecu and one into each ms ecu?
and the same for the ignition were theres 2 wires on the ecu going into one on the ms? is that correct?
also on my tps sensor i have 3 wires and theres only one on the table you put up do i only need to use the one then?
alex
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Alex,
Yes the grounds should all be linked together. Anything wheres theres more than one wire links to all the others etc.
The TPS has a ground connection (pin 46 on ECU) which we take car of by connecting to the grounds listed before hand.
TPS Signal is pin 47,
TPS Vref is pin 26
You will also need to ground pin 32 which is the starter motor relay (PATS start inhibitor)
Cheers,
mattr
PS, our V4 isnt an MS :P Its an M-Tech
Yes the grounds should all be linked together. Anything wheres theres more than one wire links to all the others etc.
The TPS has a ground connection (pin 46 on ECU) which we take car of by connecting to the grounds listed before hand.
TPS Signal is pin 47,
TPS Vref is pin 26
You will also need to ground pin 32 which is the starter motor relay (PATS start inhibitor)
Cheers,
mattr
PS, our V4 isnt an MS :P Its an M-Tech
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Alex,
Yes the grounds should all be linked together. Anything wheres theres more than one wire links to all the others etc.
The TPS has a ground connection (pin 46 on ECU) which we take car of by connecting to the grounds listed before hand.
TPS Signal is pin 47,
TPS Vref is pin 26
You will also need to ground pin 32 which is the starter motor relay (PATS start inhibitor)
Cheers,
mattr
PS, our V4 isnt an MS :P Its an M-Tech
Yes the grounds should all be linked together. Anything wheres theres more than one wire links to all the others etc.
The TPS has a ground connection (pin 46 on ECU) which we take car of by connecting to the grounds listed before hand.
TPS Signal is pin 47,
TPS Vref is pin 26
You will also need to ground pin 32 which is the starter motor relay (PATS start inhibitor)
Cheers,
mattr
PS, our V4 isnt an MS :P Its an M-Tech
will the wiring still work for a mega squirt 2 ecu?
does INJ mean injectors btw?
alex
#17
Bodger of Blackburn
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piece of piss mate, you need to throw an earth to the sensors and a feed wire to the ecu, thatt's the air temp and coolant sensor, crank position sensor needs a screened cable, earth one wire and signal wire to ecu.
injectors need a wire from the driver from ecu to one pin and live feed to the other, you can use batch firing where 1+2 and 3+4 fire together each cylce or sequential which is a little rare in use due to the complexity.
coil can be driven directly off the ecu, so forget edis as it's crap in comparisson. that's two wires from ecu and a live feed to the centre pin of the coil.
then you've got the throttle position sensor which is only three wires, 12v, 5v and earth IIRC.
just idle valve after that and you can chose how to control that, only one wire from ecu and one live wire to it.
lambda sensor, wideband recommended, still only one wire to ecu though.
pretty much it to be honest.
if you've not done it before you'll make mistakes and probably hit a brick wall, remember getting it started is the hardest bit, but with a little practise it's pretty easy.
injectors need a wire from the driver from ecu to one pin and live feed to the other, you can use batch firing where 1+2 and 3+4 fire together each cylce or sequential which is a little rare in use due to the complexity.
coil can be driven directly off the ecu, so forget edis as it's crap in comparisson. that's two wires from ecu and a live feed to the centre pin of the coil.
then you've got the throttle position sensor which is only three wires, 12v, 5v and earth IIRC.
just idle valve after that and you can chose how to control that, only one wire from ecu and one live wire to it.
lambda sensor, wideband recommended, still only one wire to ecu though.
pretty much it to be honest.
if you've not done it before you'll make mistakes and probably hit a brick wall, remember getting it started is the hardest bit, but with a little practise it's pretty easy.
#21
Bodger of Blackburn
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get the better one you can afford, at least the msIIv3.0, it's what i'm running and pulls very well.
errrmmm, yeah 12v to tps would kill it lol!
tired when typing.
nowt wrong with M-tech so i've heard these days, no experience myself so won't comit eitherway in the M-tech slagging on efiextra.com, as far as i'm aware that was bad builds a long time ago.
errrmmm, yeah 12v to tps would kill it lol!
tired when typing.
nowt wrong with M-tech so i've heard these days, no experience myself so won't comit eitherway in the M-tech slagging on efiextra.com, as far as i'm aware that was bad builds a long time ago.
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XR2,
Indeed it was nearly 4 years ago now! And its not anywhere near as bad as they make out, they just they can't handle the competition!
Our V4 runs (as an option) MS2 Xtra, so you get all the features your after with a better case, fully featured better built ISO9001 ECU..
We also gvie you one hours free dyno time, which cant be bad...
Matt
Indeed it was nearly 4 years ago now! And its not anywhere near as bad as they make out, they just they can't handle the competition!
Our V4 runs (as an option) MS2 Xtra, so you get all the features your after with a better case, fully featured better built ISO9001 ECU..
We also gvie you one hours free dyno time, which cant be bad...
Matt
#23
PassionFord Regular
Originally Posted by M-Tech
The V4 also has a tacho output etc so your dash will still work,
#25
sorry to jump in here,ive bought a msv3 ecu along with tbs second hand to put on my 2.0 zetec,wired up as per diagram,nothing opened up ecu and found 3/4 of megasquirt board assembled with additional capacitors and resisters soldered on,looks professional so don,t think ive been bumped,question is does anyone have any idea of ms adaptions etc because i followed ms wiring anyway ,but no spark,any ideas
#26
PassionFord Regular
If its a MS-I V3 (pcb) then the bottom left of the board is a patch area for various options like 'shift light'. I've also seen it used for the second spark driver instead of mounting on the main heat sink !!
The only easy way to test the ECU configuration is a Stimulator, preferably the Jim Stimulator. Once you know the hardware and software are correct, then move on to the actual Zetec installation.
Martin
The only easy way to test the ECU configuration is a Stimulator, preferably the Jim Stimulator. Once you know the hardware and software are correct, then move on to the actual Zetec installation.
Martin
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