as title, spun number 4 bigend shell, and crank now bent apparently.
is this common? my engine made 430 odd bhp and lasted about a month! @2 bar boost and 8k rpm limmeter. am i doing something wrong? it had 2wd hp oil pump (with good pressure) and std/std crank with acl race shells. i maintain oil temp to no higher then 110 'c maybe the odd 120'c on the accasional heated moment
gutted.... do i have to go back to greens to keep it allive??

 

could be a million reasons why if im honest ..
was the crank a stdf/std grind????
was the bottom end balanced end to end ???

are your rods a matching set , was the crank thrust measured correctly ????
many diff reasons why ,just simply put it down to bad luck ......
not sure the yb,s like a constant 8000rpm limit often either !!!

 

yep, as far as i was concerned the engine was built well, but im starting to think that the limmeter is a bit high yer, bad luck it was then, lol

 

Who said you have a bent crank? Does this same person want to sell you a crank? Mechanics are sales people too...

 

ha, yer i no mate, he said he can get it sorted but its not the best resolution he said, so i said id try and source another first

 

I would be tempted to take it to someone else to get measured for bend first.
The crank will piss 8K all day long, std rod bolts won't!!
tabetha

 

yer thats good advice, arp rod bolts used,
i still need a crank std/std....any one????

 

Was bearing crush checked when the engine was built
I bet it wasnt !

 

nope, hows u check that? and how could u addjust it anyway??

 

Plastiguage

 

Plastigauge is used to measure bearing clearance between crank and bearing. Bearing crush is the ability of the bearing to hold itself in the rod or block whilst being subjected to a few thousand psi without spinning in it's housing.The location tabs on the bearings don't do it all !!

 

. The bearings are fitted to the rods you then put the rod in a soft jaw vice and torque up as normal.don't hold the rod on the beam !!! You then undo one rod bolt and remove it .you then check the gap at the partline of the rod this will be or should be 2to 3 thou if not you need to try swapping bearings around to get the desired gap if youcannot get it the rod may need resizing.it's the same for the block as well .I will check for the exact size it should be I'm not 100% sure on the correct size at this moment as I'm at work.

 

umm thanks for the crush info, il be checking this on reasemble, thanks Alg1k

im still after a crank???? std/std

 

i've got a std/std crank mate i'm near watford